Biodiesel and WVO - SVO links thread.

[John Schroader]

Finally ran a batch of unwashed bio through the centrifuge. Maintained about 80 - 100 psi and saw a bit of mist (evaporation of residual moisture?). Fuel ended up quite clear and clean looking. Did the 27-3 test on it, which I have not done to washed bio, so no comparison on that yet. I got a tiny bit of settling from that test, so now will run a 27-3 on some washed bio and check that out. Any advice on testing? I typically just do a visual (sparkling clear bio) and possibly a sizzle test.

[John Schroader]

Yesterday I took the time to make a few further comparisons of centrifuged / unwashed bio and some bio that I had been water / bubble washed. Both did appx. the same on the 27-3 test --- good but not perfect. When I introduced water to both test batches,shook them up vigorously, and let them settle. The centrifuged bio settled milky looking water to the bottom. The washed bio settled crystal clear water to the bottom. This leads me to believe that the centrifuged bio did not remove all of the unreacted lye or methanol. Wish I had some bio master to advise me, but at this point, I think water washing is a necessary step.

[Joe Marroso]

Gentlemen,

My WVO source of 3 years has been redecorated with scary decals. No more dumpster diving there for me. I, ahem, am aware of the moral ambiguities.

Nevertheless, the most I can store at any one time is 75 gals, so I need a predictable source.

Can anybody in the Las Vegas NV area help me break the bonds of petro-serfdom?

Thank You,
Joe Marroso

[John Schroader]

Joe, a few years back I encountered the same sort of situation. Until a better source came along I provided my own barrel for the restaurant to fill. As I understand, the oil does not belong to the recycler until it is deposited in their dumpster. I suppose there might be some liability issues of a barrel behind the restaurant in a litigious society, but I stayed below the radar for a year or so until a better source came along. I have found that the small restaurants are not a good target for the big recyclers, so they are much more willing to drain their oil back into the 35lb. cubies and set it out for me. In fact, at this time my oil is delivered to my garage by a fellow bio burner. Might look into one of these ideas.

[Joe Marroso]

Originally Posted by John Schroader

Joe, a few years back I encountered the same sort of situation. Until a better source came along I provided my own barrel for the restaurant to fill. As I understand, the oil does not belong to the recycler until it is deposited in their dumpster. I suppose there might be some liability issues of a barrel behind the restaurant in a litigious society, but I stayed below the radar for a year or so until a better source came along. I have found that the small restaurants are not a good target for the big recyclers, so they are much more willing to drain their oil back into the 35lb. cubies and set it out for me. In fact, at this time my oil is delivered to my garage by a fellow bio burner. Might look into one of these ideas.

Thanks John,

Comforting words, for sure, but my life as a veggie burner just got more complicated. My former WVO source was only blocks away in a very bourgeois shopping center. I could get B- to B+ oil from the community dumpster. I would get 75 gallons in one extraction and that would last me for nearly 2 months. A small restaurant will average 5 gallons every 4 days. 20 gallons a month is less than optimal. I already have multiple small restaurant sites. They never seem to amount to much. I know, stop snivelin. Things are just not as good as before. Oh well.

I like the barrel story, but that course of action is not possible here.

The delivery from a bio brethren makes me very envious.

I'll keep pluggin.

Joe Marroso

[weird beard]

Trying to build myself a two tank WVO kit. Will these valves work? I need to reverse the flow from what they are intended but they won't be under any pressure to speak of. Port "A" will be to engine on suction side and "P" and "R" will connect to supply tanks. I will have a second valve for the return, connected the same way.

[John Schroader]

A couple of other considerations would be whether the seals in the solenoid can withstand WVO and the temp (oil needs to be warm enough to flow through lines, even if the main heat exchanger (160 degrees) is downstream from the solenoid). A few years back I purchased one from JC Whitney for appx. $80 that switched both supply and return lines. Worked fine for the 6 months that I owned the vehicle.

[weird beard]

it is a solenoid designed for switching hydraulic oil. I believe it would take the heat. Should take the oil. These are only $25 each. Cannot locate one at the same price to switch all in one. One benefit would be I can switch the supply over before switching the return on purge cycles. I'm toying with the idea right now of building my own 2 tank setup, on a budget. It will be done right, but I can't justify a commercial two tank system that costs more than the car did! One concern I had with the valves is they might need the hydraulic pressure to actually make the spool shift.

[John Schroader]

! One concern I had with the valves is they might need the hydraulic pressure to actually make the spool shift.[/QUOTE]

I surely don't know a lot about such matters, but I think the spool will shift due to the magnetism of the solenoid, not the pressure. Not at all sure of that though. A few years back I built a system for an old Ford 7.3 for not much money. Spent a lot of time reinventing the wheel, but eventually it worked fine. Keep us posted.

[don b]

Can anyone tell me why my 85 300d with a greasecar system on it won't heat up until my vegi oil is at 115 degrees? thanks don

[whunter]

Originally Posted by don b

Can anyone tell me why my 85 300d with a greasecar system on it won't heat up until my veggie oil is at 115 F degrees? thanks don

Best guess:

Your veggie heat lines are spliced into the heater hoses = bypassing the thermostat, and feeding cold coolant directly to the engine water jacket..

[don b]

is there anyway i can get more heat?

[Joe Marroso]

Originally Posted by don b

is there anyway i can get more heat?

Don,

Is your wvo tank heated or just the exchanger?

Does your installation use a banjo bolt to "loop" the unused fuel or is it returned to the main tank?

I almost bought a Greasecar setup. It seemed like quality stuff and the designs were thoughtful. I can't imagine that the install is fatally flawed. The "greaseballs" should be able to help you. Be optimistic.

Joe Marroso

[soothappens]

Originally Posted by weird beard

it is a solenoid designed for switching hydraulic oil. I believe it would take the heat. Should take the oil. These are only $25 each. Cannot locate one at the same price to switch all in one. One benefit would be I can switch the supply over before switching the return on purge cycles. I'm toying with the idea right now of building my own 2 tank setup, on a budget. It will be done right, but I can't justify a commercial two tank system that costs more than the car did! One concern I had with the valves is they might need the hydraulic pressure to actually make the spool shift.

John is right about the magnetism. When the coil is energized there's a small rod inside that push/pulls the spool.
Pilot operated would work with hydraulic pressure pushing the spool usually proportional.
That looks like a simple bang bang valve (on off ).


On the temperature issue I have hydraulic systems using similar valves.
They usually see up to 230*F + in the summer. Shouldn't be a problem.

$25 is cheap all in one would be a lot higher If you have the space and don't mind the plumbing/electrical no problem there either.
Best of luck with it.

[rkpatt]

Below is a link to a 3-way valve that a few of the WVO conversion parts companies sell . It looks slightly different than the on Weird Beard mentioned above . It works well even on vehicles with high volume requirements .

http://www.plantdrive.ca/xcart/product.php?productid=16292&cat=8&page=1