I recently bought my first MB, a 1984 300D Turbo with intentions to convert it to run wvo. I've looked at a lot of websites with what seems like sound advice, and also read "From the Fryer to the Fuel Tank". I live in North Carolina, so I'm figuring on heating everything from the fuel tank on up. My question is that is there any friendly advice that would help me out before I get started. How bad is filtering out the wvo before it goes into the tank? I haven't decided how I'm going to manage that yet. Thanks,

The very first thing you should do is secure a source of clean WVO (preferably Canola). This can be a bigger challenge than it may seem on the surface, depending on the WVO activity and rendering companies in your area. There is no point delving any deeper until you can ensure yourself a good clean source of WVO.

My 2 cents (I have a good reliable WVO source locally)

SteveM

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'93 190E/D 2.5 Turbodiesel 5-speed (daily driver)
'87 190D 2.5 Turbo rustbucket - parts car
'84 Dodge Rampage diesel - Land Speed Record Holder
'13 Ram 2500 Diesel
'05 Toyota 4Runner

Huge WVO DIY conversion and filtering resourse:
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/ubb.x/a/frm/f/159605551
From the Fryer is great nostalgia, but we have come a long way since then.
Do some fresh reading on the forum.
Lot of work, and a lot of good fun.
Good luck!

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Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)

Yep, a good source of oil is critical. After that, the absolute best thing you can do is filter filter filter. If you put clean fuel in, you'll never have screw around with clogged filters and it won't be a pain. I've converted 4 300's and a few VW's. Just drove my '83 300SD 800 miles roundtrip to Boston and back and used about 5 gallons of diesel for the whole trip. I don't even bother switching back to diesel now that temps here (PA) are 50 and up. Starts right up. My son's 300D is the same. Find a source, clean the oil well in bulk, then you just fill her up and go!

Here is the place I get my filters. I am sure there are more places, but I have been pleased so far. The cleaner the better, and heat that water out before you add to fuel tank. Good luck!!


http://filterbag.com/browse.php?Material%5B%5D=1&Size%5B%5D=4&Style%5B%5D=1&Micron%5B%5D=1&RealBrowse=RealBrowse&Submit=F ind+Bags

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1984 300D Turbo Sedan (Hilda) 272,115 miles.....
Anthracite Gray/Palamino Leather, I am 3rd owner

2001 Dodge Stratus (Silver) (wifes) 55814 miles...

1982 280TE Wagon Astral Silver Metallic/
Anthracite Velour
260,512 miles (Eva)

1969 230 Sedan Olive Green/Black MBTex
4 Speed Manual
84,213 miles ????
Haus Frau


2004 Boreem Ninja Pocket Bike
Highly Modified 49cc (Ling Ling)

Einigkeit und Recht und Freiheit

Ike,
welcome to the club. You have already recieved some excellent advice, but I disagree on the need for Canola, or other liquid oils. There is a VAST availability of solid oils - Tallow & Hydrogenated vegetable oils are readily available. If you design the WVO conversion to ensure that all of the WVO fuel system is heated, you can easily use WVO in your OM617. You will not need to fight for these oils. They will remain the least desired oils by other users, so being able to use these oils may give you the edge when the petroleum oil crunch comes.
In climates which freeze water, appropriate use of insulation and heating will ensure hot WVO to the IP.
You will be able to use liquid oils if you locate good sources, but you can always fall back to the solid oils if sources dry up.
Tony

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Tony from West Oz.
Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine.
Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int.
Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine.
Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior


Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.

if you get hydrogenated, it's more of a pain to filter, because it needs more heat to get less viscous. stick with non-hydrogenated if you can.

david

This is especially true if you blend. Hydrogenated and high-tallow oils are likely to clog filters quickly unless it is really, really hot outside and even then luck is involved.

Test samples of oil in the refrigerator and freezer to see what you are working with.

Spot on.

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Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)

Where are you in NC - it was not on your signiture. I read at www.greasecar.com that non-hydrogenated is better. It said oriental restaurants are good source of this. That's a helpful site too.

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1982 300SD Light Blue
2002 Honda Accord SE
1974 Toro Wheel Horse Tractor
2000 Toyota Tundra Pickup

From a convenience point of view, YES liquid oils are MUCH easier. If the WVO system is designed to allow use of Solid oils, then it will work really well when using liquid oils.

If you cannot get liquid oils, having a WVO system which is designed to use solid oils allows you the choice of using them. If your system is optimised for liquid oils, you will have difficulty if you want to use solid oils!

Keep your option to use solid oils, and search out the best liquid oils you can get. When you go on holidays, take whatever oil you can get and know that you are safe to use it.

With a well designed WVO system, fuel blending should not be necessary.



It is ESSENTIAL to filter all oil (liquid or solid oil) before addding to the vehicle WVO tank.