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  #1  
Old 04-20-2005, 04:30 PM
ncof300d
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Biodiesel in 1996-1999 E300D

I have a 1985 300D that I have been running with an increasing percentage of biodiesel. I have had to place filters and part of the fuel line. I expect that I will eventally have to replace all of the non metal (rubber) parts of the fuel line in order to run B100 with leaking.
I have recently purchased a 1999 E300D. (So fun to drive it should almost be illegal.) I would like to run B100 in it as well. I have 'heard' that the hoses on this model are compatible with B100, however, I have yet to see any documentation on this nor do I know of anyone who has run B100 in one of these models on a long term continuous basis. Is there anyone out there with long term, continuous useage of B100 in this model?
Thank you,
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  #2  
Old 04-22-2005, 09:39 PM
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Answer:

Most are in Europe.
I do not know any E300D local running B100, too blasted cold without conversion kit.

Night; April/22/2005
Rain / Wind Low
38 F
Precip: 90%
Windy with rain likely. Low 38F. Winds N at 20 to 30 mph. Chance of rain 90%. Rainfall around a half an inch.

Day; April/22/2005
Rain / Snow / Wind High
39 F
Precip: 90%
Windy with rain and snow in the morning becoming lighter and intermittent in the afternoon. Colder. Temps nearly steady in the mid to upper 30s. Winds NNW at 25 to 35 mph. Chance of precip 90%. Wet snow accumulation of 2 to 4 inches.

Night; April/22/2005
Snow / Wind Low
31 F
Precip: 80%
Periods of snow and windy. Cold. Low 31F. Winds NW at 25 to 35 mph. Chance of snow 80%. 6 to 10 inches of snow expected.
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  #3  
Old 04-22-2005, 11:38 PM
ncof300d
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At this time temperature is not the issue that I am concerned with. My concern is fuel line material on a 1999. I have been running several tanks of B20 in my 1985 300D which has required some fuel line changes that I was expecting. I just want to confirm fuel line material compatibility with biodiesel on a 1999. When the warmer temperatures get here I want to run B100. There is a biodiesel plant underway in Defiance, OH that will be in production in a few months.
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  #4  
Old 12-07-2007, 02:16 PM
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Biodiesel in 1999 E300D

Quote:
Originally Posted by ncof300d View Post
At this time temperature is not the issue that I am concerned with. My concern is fuel line material on a 1999. I have been running several tanks of B20 in my 1985 300D which has required some fuel line changes that I was expecting. I just want to confirm fuel line material compatibility with biodiesel on a 1999. When the warmer temperatures get here I want to run B100. There is a biodiesel plant underway in Defiance, OH that will be in production in a few months.
Were there ever any long term responses to this old post. I recently bought a 1999 E300D also....I met one local driver saying he had been running B100 for a couple of years with no problems.

I've run about 15 gallons of B100 through mine....but today I found this article.....now I'm paranoid.

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/sept2007/techtotech.htm
(see the 5th paragraph under the blue square in the middle of the article with the BlueTec specs.)

I get B100 at a significant savings over the current local dinodiesel price but don't want to risk my injection pump and seals.

Any real world feedback?

Warren
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  #5  
Old 12-07-2007, 02:32 PM
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The fuel lines themselves are fine. The orings that seal them as well as seal the delivery valves inside the IP can deterioate from B99.

Should be noted the rings will also deterioate from reg D2 use too.

Go to fryerpower .com and purchase the 606 oring kit in viton and swap all the orings out. No long term results using viton yet but is supposed to be MUCH more resistant.

Going back and forth between fuel types probably hastens failure.
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  #6  
Old 12-07-2007, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
If your customer is not prepared to replace the injection pump, injectors and fuel lines on the vehicle, they should not put biodiesel in the fuel tank."
Obviously, that person has no idea of what he is talking about!

Commercially made BioDiesel is perfectly fine to use in your car. It is home made cr@p like WVO/SVO and "biodiesel" that cause engine damage. Keep an eye on your fuel lines and delivery valve seals. If any of them leak get them replaced, its as simple as that.
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Old 12-07-2007, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
Obviously, that person has no idea of what he is talking about!

Commercially made BioDiesel is perfectly fine to use in your car. It is home made cr@p like WVO/SVO and "biodiesel" that cause engine damage. Keep an eye on your fuel lines and delivery valve seals. If any of them leak get them replaced, its as simple as that.

I just finished reading the article and agree. You arent going to ruin a pump on Bio. You might do so using homebrew or W/SVO. You ARE going to change DV seals eventually regardless of fuel type used.

Also, the Blutec is a very different engine than the 99.
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  #8  
Old 12-07-2007, 03:10 PM
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on my horizon

An E300 diesel is also on my horizon.......maybe I should say the wife's. Well, I will have to drive it occasionally, right? To make sure everything is okay with it. And since I make B100, I have to say that most homebrewers make fuel very close (if not better) than ASTM standards. How do we know? We have it tested.

So, 1998 was the first year of the turbo E300 diesel, right? Anything in particular to look for in inspecting these newer diesels? Somehow, I think I'm going to dread working on these newer models.
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  #9  
Old 12-07-2007, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
Keep an eye on your fuel lines and delivery valve seals. If any of them leak get them replaced, its as simple as that.
I'm a reasonably competent DIY mechanic,.....and worked a lot on VWs and Subarus..... but MB diesels are new to me...even though I have also owned a 1987 300TDT for over a year...I'll admit I don't know my way around the engine bay very well in either of my two diesels.

Is there an online diagram somewhere that would show me the spots I need to "keep an eye on". Like all these O rings.


Warren C.
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  #10  
Old 12-07-2007, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren C View Post
Is there an online diagram somewhere that would show me the spots I need to "keep an eye on". Like all these O rings.


Warren C.
Every fuel line and o-ring shown on the attached diagram; the 6 delivery valves on top of the flat, milled portion of the IP and the o-ring behind the shutoff valve sealing it to the side of the IP.

http://detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP=1&F=210025&M=606%2E962&GA=722%2E608&CT=M&cat=19T&SID=07&SGR=120&SGN=04
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  #11  
Old 12-07-2007, 08:47 PM
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Diagram and Viton source ??

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Originally Posted by TMAllison View Post
Every fuel line and o-ring shown on the attached diagram; the 6 delivery valves on top of the flat, milled portion of the IP and the o-ring behind the shutoff valve sealing it to the side of the IP.

http://detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP=1&F=210025&M=606%2E962&GA=722%2E608&CT=M&cat=19T&SID=07&SGR=120&SGN=04

Perfect.....thanks!

Who'se the source for the Viton fuel lines and O rings?

W.C.
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  #12  
Old 12-07-2007, 09:00 PM
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No problems

We just started using commercial B100 in our new-to-us 1996 E300D. The PO replaced the hoses earlier this year. I expect no problems beyond an o-ring here and there or a hose that got missed. This is the fourth vehicle that I have "converted" to biodiesel with no problems (no clogged filters, etc.)

I did notice (after 18 months) the return hoses on the Satoh "Beaver II" tractor beginning to melt and replaced them -- but they were original 1980's Japanese rubber. The reported problems of others seem to be due to (a) bad home-made fuel or (b) a car that has never been properly maintained and is full of 20-year-old hoses, etc.

Jeremy
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  #13  
Old 12-08-2007, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Warren C View Post
Perfect.....thanks!

Who'se the source for the Viton fuel lines and O rings?

W.C.
JADAVIS forum member.

fryerpower.com website.

here are the counts/sizes if you want to purchase them yourself.
OM606.962 o-ring size
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  #14  
Old 12-08-2007, 12:51 PM
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Replacing O rings

Thanks for all the great info....

It seems that I'm no worse off with B100 than ULSD and I'll be replacing all the O rings anyway......and should be checking them right now since my car already has 170K miles.

I'm off with the diagrams to have a good look at my engine and get more familiar with all the locations.

I feel better now.....I'm going forward with using B100 full time and feel more confident that I can handle the O ring replacements when necessary.....at least for the fuel and filter lines.

I'm still fuzzy on the IP though,...this is still a bit intimidating for me. Does it involve removal of the pump to replace the O rings.....??

Is there a play by play on this procedure in forum?

Warren
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