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I'm wondering if the engine oil changes can go longer or if the oil doesn't get as black when running WVO? Anyone with experience here?
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1. Veg oil will polymerise if kept at high temperature with plenty of air added. 2. Any blowby which contains liquid veg oil (eg, at hard cold starts) will end up in the sump. 3. Diesel fuel will evaporate from the sump during normal temperature operation. 4. Veg oil will not evaporate from the sump in normal temperatrue operation (not even at excessively hot operation) 5. The engine oil is kept hot and a mist of oil is constantly in contact with air (Positive Crancase ventilation) 6. Polymerisation can develop quickly and cause the engine oil to become excessively thick. Oil change intervals at 3000 miles (or 3 months) will remove vegoil from the sump before enough is there to cause problems. I hope this helps, Tony |
I disagree about the fat not filtering out. When I get fatty stuff, the bag filter clogs with "gravy" that, when heated melts. I'm sure it's fat. I just scrape the filter out or replace it. Adding 20% kero almost completely disolves the fat - the filter doesn't clog.
I agree with Tony about oil changes, but jeez, if I do every 3000 miles that's every month. I just did a 5000 mile change and 4000 of that was on either partial or total wvo.I didn't notice any difference in the way the oil looked. Since I'm running 100%, now, I'll change it at 3000 next and keep a sample. Then I'll try 4000, then 5000. I don't mix any diesel, but I've only read of one instance (Warhorse) of waxing fuel. I'd like to avoid it, so I steer clear of diesel and use kero. Still, one example doesn't worry me. |
I've always thought that kerosene was just a higher grade of diesel fuel just like jet fuel. What about mixing a little RUL in the WVO?
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