BioDiesel and rust
 

I've just started filling up on some bean fuel, B20 from United Energy in Aiken, SC. I know that biodiesel is one of the best solvents out there for cleaning the fuel system. Currently as stated I am running B20, which is available at the retail pump in Aiken. Would this concentration affect or help the light rust that I have on the inside of my fuel neck? I tried to top off everytime I fill up to help.

Also, will this concentration of BioDiesel perform any solvent functions at such a low concentration? I'm already noticing increased MPG's, but that is probably due to the good quality of dino fuel the BioD is mixed with and the different driving conditions here in SC as opposed to CT. The engine also runs smoother without a doubt.

I think B20 should perform like a solvent at such a low concentration. Maybe some BioDiesel guys can chime in on this.
-Joe

I am also going to try this out this coming week, a Crystal Flash Station a few miles from where I work has Biodiesel in Blends from B5 to B20 all the way up to B100!! (They didn't used to have B100, now they do!) By midweek (Wednesdayish...) my tank is going to be quite down, probably only a few gallons left.....how high can I go safely in Biodiesel just pumping it right in....I'd assume B20 (what I will probably try first) is fine but would I need to do anything should I choose to migrate on up to B100? I'm just paranoid. I am brave enough to fill up with a full tank of B20 though. :D My car already idles extremely smooth and quiet on regular diesel, so with this stuff maybe it will make it even smoother. :D

Don't worry about it what-so-ever. The higher concentration of BioD the more crap to be cleaned from the entire fuel system. If you run B100 definately have a spare fuel filter. The crud in the fuel system accumulating in the filter, your car may start acting like it is starving of fuel, hint, to change the fuel filter as it's cleaning... If you think your 300SD is smooth now, wait till you try the BIO. B20 you will notice a difference. Any less than that won't probably be noticeable, but it will help emissions.

I wouldn't go any higher than B20 on an old diesel. Higher concentrations of BioDiesel could eat through fuel lines from what a biodiesel distributor told me. Unless you have switched to viton fuel lines first, don't risk it, and leave it at B20. If you want to switch to B100, then do the fuel line swap.
-Joe

I'm running on B5 for the first time. There is a difference, smoother running, but haven't had to change filters yet. Does run better, but only slightly. Not the placebo effect. I'd say it runs like a tank full of diesel and a generous shot of Power Service.
And it was cheaper than the petro diesel across the street.

I am on week 12 of home brew B-100. (85 300D) It runs better, is peppier without doubt, but fuel economy has dropped to 19-21. (from 22-24)
I have been watching my lines and filters but so far no issues. (I am knocking on wood) My good results are on un-washed fuel. I would think that with the certified fuel grade stuff you get at the pumps would be no worry at all.
It's very nice filling up for 85-90 cents per gallon. Its going to be tough when it gets cold out to go back to diesel fuel.

I think I will use B20 to begin with......order some fuel filters, then I will maybe mix in some B100 with the B20, to bring it up gradually, like B50...etc...and maybe eventually try pure B100 :D Which fuel lines would one have to worry about being eaten away? the rubber ones back by the tank and to the prefilter etc? Or the clear ones to/from the injection pump and/or the return lines...?

I have also noticed a slight decrease in mpg and less power with B100. I especially notice the power increase when I go back to dino. If I mix it 50/50 or less the power is the same as dino and mpg are relatively the same.

B20 will clean the crud out of the system, but more slowly than B100....my '83 300D has dramaticly improved in power since I bought it...I've been through a couple filters since then..awesum running car now. I have zero doubt its due to a steady diet of B20.

It seems to be getting smoother and smoother everyday. I floored it when getting onto a highway on ramp and it didn't smoke as much. I'm really loving how smooth it is!

I wouldn't worry about the fuel lines on commercially sold bio diesel. It will be washed to insure all remaining methanol has been removed from the fuel. It is the methanol that damages fuel lines, not the oil. B100 will run fine in your car. I've run homebrew B100 in my truck on a 1500 mile highway trip when I was still experimenting with the stuff.

Put in an easy to reach inline fuel filter and fill her up w/B100. Carry a spare or two.

To bring your Cetane back up throw in some cetane boost.

How would adding yet another fuel filter help? Don't these MB diesel cars already have two fuel filters that are easily accessed in the engine compartment?
I thought bio didn't need cetane boost, as it was already high.

I think the cetane in the fuel provided by Crystal flash around here is more than adequte....take a look at this specifications page about their "SoyDiesel XC"

SoyDiesel XC Specs