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  #1  
Old 07-31-2005, 01:49 AM
Austin85's Avatar
Smells like Diesel..
 
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Cool Nec. to change fuel lines for WVO???

Anyone have input on how necessary it is to change out fuel lines before running WVO in 300D's ???
I'vee read some do and some don't......
Thanks much....
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  #2  
Old 07-31-2005, 06:59 AM
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You only need to change the lines if you are going to run Bio-Diesel. This will eat up rubber lines......... If just running WVO - your fine.........

Stephen
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  #3  
Old 07-31-2005, 07:26 AM
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I have been running B20 for the past three or four months and have not had any issues yet. My plans are to change em when they start leaking.
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  #4  
Old 07-31-2005, 10:08 AM
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
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Another Biodiesel MYTH!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smooooth
You only need to change the lines if you are going to run Bio-Diesel. This will eat up rubber lines......... If just running WVO - your fine.........

Stephen
Diesel fuel degrades natural rubber rapidly
BioDiesel fuel degrades natural rubber rapidly

Fuel lines are made of Nitrile rubber.
Diesel fuel degrades nitrile rubber slowly
BioDiesel fuel degrades nitrile rubber slowly
I have had 2 fuel lines start to leak in the '84 300D. It has been running on B100 for 5 years, the last 1 1/2 in my hands. One was an inter-injector return line and the other was the short hose between prefilter and lift pump.

In my conversion of the 300D, I used some new and some second-hand fuel line for the Used Cooking oil. After 12 months on UCO, I have not had a fuel leak from any lines carrying UCO i nthis car.
In my previous car, I had a couple of short fuel lines, which were flexed whenever I changed the engine oil, started weeping UCO.

Good maintenance practices are the best insurance.
Inspect all hoses (coolant, fuel and brake) at every service. Replace any which have signs of deterioration. Fuel lines will weep for a long time before allowing fuel to drip from them or suck air in.
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Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine.
Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int.
Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine.
Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior


Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.
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  #5  
Old 07-31-2005, 10:46 AM
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clear lines

Hi,

That was intersting about the myth. I've never run biodiesel, I use SVO. I had read on the web (so of course it is true ) that the leftover methanol in the Biodiesel is what softens the black rubber hoses. I have no experience with this though. This is good news because I've never run biodiesel in my main tank because I was scared of melting down the old hoses.

Was your B100 homebrew or was it mass produced stuff? Homebrew may have lots of methanol left in it.

I like to use the clear pvc hoses with the fiber reinforcement so I can see what is going on inside the tube. If you run looped return lines it is critical not to get any air in the pipe because it will eventually stall the car.

Cheers,
Yoko
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  #6  
Old 08-18-2005, 03:35 PM
Brandon314159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ykobayashi
Hi,

That was intersting about the myth. I've never run biodiesel, I use SVO. I had read on the web (so of course it is true ) that the leftover methanol in the Biodiesel is what softens the black rubber hoses. I have no experience with this though. This is good news because I've never run biodiesel in my main tank because I was scared of melting down the old hoses.
I run homebrew b100 in my 300SD (homebrew meaning it has more damaging chems to rubber).
I haven't had one lick of problems with degrading fuel lines, etc.

If I were you, I would run it in your car, keep an eye out for leaks, and drive happy. When leaks show up...spend the small amount of money and replace the bad hose.
Its so cheap and easy its not even funny.
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  #7  
Old 08-18-2005, 05:29 PM
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agree with most of the above.

disagree with 'most fuel lines are nitrile rubber'. this is only if you have bought the rubber and installed it yourself. my cars all have rubber lines. we have had b20 in red since feb and homebrew b100, no bubble wash so stil methanolly, for 13 weeks with no rubber leaking. and when it does leak i will replace it with rubber as nitrile is about 8 bucks a foot or something ridicilis if you can find it.
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  #8  
Old 08-18-2005, 11:39 PM
Brandon314159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 83-240D
agree with most of the above.

disagree with 'most fuel lines are nitrile rubber'. this is only if you have bought the rubber and installed it yourself. my cars all have rubber lines. we have had b20 in red since feb and homebrew b100, no bubble wash so stil methanolly, for 13 weeks with no rubber leaking. and when it does leak i will replace it with rubber as nitrile is about 8 bucks a foot or something ridicilis if you can find it.
I concurr...most cars do not come with nitrile (older ones being the topic at the moment).
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  #9  
Old 08-19-2005, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon314159
Quote:
Originally Posted by 83-240D
I agree with most of the above.

disagree with 'most fuel lines are nitrile rubber'. this is only if you have bought the rubber and installed it yourself. my cars all have rubber lines. we have had b20 in red since feb and homebrew b100, no bubble wash so stil methanolly, for 13 weeks with no rubber leaking. and when it does leak i will replace it with rubber as nitrile is about 8 bucks a foot or something ridicilis if you can find it.
I concurr...most cars do not come with nitrile (older ones being the topic at the moment).
Nitrile rubber IS the CHEAP ONE. All cars have used nitrile rubber for as long as cars have used rubber fuel lines. Natural rubber is attacked by all petroleum products (including grease) - yes, the rubber seals in your engine are Nitrile rubber, not Natural rubber.
MB uses clear plastic fuel lines in the 300D from the lift pump to the Filter and the filter to the IP. All other fuel lines are Nitrile Rubber.


VITON is the EXPEN$IVE one.
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Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine.
Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int.
Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine.
Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior


Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.
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  #10  
Old 08-19-2005, 09:31 PM
Brandon314159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyFromWestOz

VITON is the EXPEN$IVE one.
Sorry I got my terms confused...

It happens when you are a chem major

"Oops"....*giant explosion*

Last edited by Brandon314159; 08-20-2005 at 10:41 AM.
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  #11  
Old 08-20-2005, 08:51 AM
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I also say Oops often.
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  #12  
Old 08-21-2005, 08:05 AM
Waitn For The Bus All Day
 
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Tony....wish you lived around my neck of the woods. I've been following the recent threads on WVO use and you seem to really have a ton of experience with the use of it.

Are there any rubber componets in the fuel system that will be affected by the use of WVO?

Would you suggest using a seperate tank or could I just dump WVO into my stock tank? I ask this because one of my cars is a wagon and I'd hate tie up precious cargo space with a tank.

Cheers,

Bill
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  #13  
Old 08-21-2005, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill murrow
Tony....wish you lived around my neck of the woods. I've been following the recent threads on WVO use and you seem to really have a ton of experience with the use of it.

Are there any rubber componets in the fuel system that will be affected by the use of WVO?
No
Quote:

Would you suggest using a seperate tank or could I just dump WVO into my stock tank? I ask this because one of my cars is a wagon and I'd hate tie up precious cargo space with a tank.

Cheers,

Bill
Bill,
While my wife is using a 1:1 biodiesel:Used Cooking Oil (UCO) blend in winter, and up to 1:3 in summer, and my 2 tank conversion is the "economy model" (liquid UCO oly), I always recommend installing a fully heated 2 tank conversion to anyone considering the conversion, it adds only slightly to the installed cost and enables you to use any filtered, dried UCO, regardless of its melting point. When liquid oils become harder to obtain, solid oils will still be readily available. If you are able to use them, you will still be motoring. Incidentaly, I did read somewhere that Tallow has a higher specific energy than petroleum diesel.

A friend of mine has a 300TD (wagon) and has replaced his spare tyre with a 50 gallon drum cut down and welded up as a UCO tank, occupying the spare tyre recess in the load area. The spare is on the roof rack (isn't that why MB wagons have the roof rack fitted?) You may consider something like it too. He did post photos of his tank on this forum. He posts here as Andrew.
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Tony from West Oz.
Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine.
Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int.
Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine.
Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior


Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.

Last edited by TonyFromWestOz; 08-21-2005 at 10:44 AM.
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  #14  
Old 08-21-2005, 04:48 PM
Waitn For The Bus All Day
 
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Location: south east pa.
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Tony....so what is the best kit to buy for the conversion? I've seen one by greasel.

I've got a 240 I'll covert. I drive it more than the TD anyway.

I have been told to stay away from UCO that has a lot of tallow but you're saying it burns fine. I do have a good source for my oil as no meat has been cooked in it. Pretty cola color with very little in the way of particles in it.

Thanks for the advice Tony. Very appreciated.

Cheers,

Bill
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  #15  
Old 08-21-2005, 06:15 PM
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Please excuse me for butting in here....................

It seems that the top three manufacturers of complete kits seem to be: Frybrid, Greasecar, and Greasel. There are of few other players out there. A great source for the DIY type is Dana Linscott..........

My plans, which have been it the works for longer than I want to admit, have switched over to acquiring a system from Frybrid. Chris has started from ground zero and has re-designed the system using very high quality parts. Although I will be paying a premium for his expertise. SWMBO has been prompting me to get the system ASAP - I just can't financially pull the trigger yet.

Stephen
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