I have a 85 300D with 145K and perfect bumper to bumper. I can't stomach the blatant rip off from the oil companies any more. So I looked at biodiesel and WVO. For me WVO looks easyer. I look at greasecar, greasel, and Fattywagons. Fatty has a one tank system. It has a heater that attaches to the fuel lines along with a heated filter system. I live in Tennessee so we get little cold weather. I would like some professional opinions on this one tank system.
Thanks
Ron

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1985 300D Gray Market 208K
1985 300D 145K

IMHO save the money. No coversion neccissary. Use a blend. Collect Used Cooking Oil, filter and DEWATER it. Then go 80 % of this oil, 20%Reg UL. Gas and some cetane boost (kugel blend) Do a coolant fuel heat exchanger for winter. You do NOT want to get this blend as hot as folk running on non blends. Just heat it some, simular to the temps of the OEM fuel heater.

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"If anyone knows other lessons I need to learn, please tell me. I'm tired of learning them the hard way".
by JerryBro

The Glow Plug Wait: This waiting period is a moment of silence to pay honor to Rudolph Diesel. The longer you own your diesel the more honor you will give him". by SD Blue

My normal daily life; either SNAFUed- Situation Normal... All Fouled Up, or FUBARed- Fouled Up Beyond All Repair

62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD daily driver- both powered by blended UCO fuels

If you are looking at 2 tank systems - check out www.frybrid.com

They are a little more expensive - but Chris has re-designed the 2 tank system from the ground up and seems to have gotten it right.

There is also a great forum at his site strictly for WVO.

Stephen

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98 K2500 Suburban 6.5 Luxo Barge

"We cannot change the wind - But we can adjust our sails"

If you decide to follow coachgeo's advice, you can install a heat exchanger with a valve that will allow you to vary the wvo temp depending on outside temps. That is how my blend system is set up.

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1984 300Sd 210k

Former cars:
1984 300D 445k (!!) (Strider) Original (and not rebuilt) engine and transmission. Currently running on V80 ( 80% vegetable oil, 20% petroleum products). Actually not, taking a WVO break.
1993 300d 2.5 275k. Current 120/day commuter
1981 300SD 188k (Hans) Killed by a deer

Coachgeo
Thanks for the advise. I will go with your idea. Do you run 20% Reg UL all the time? After you have filtered wvo can I add the Reg UL to the drum or do I add it direct to the fuel tank? In other words I would like to have a 40 gallons of finished product. Will the blend stay stable for 2=3 weeks?

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1985 300D Gray Market 208K
1985 300D 145K

That is an excellent idea. Where can I get one.

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1985 300D Gray Market 208K
1985 300D 145K

The best person to ask is Kugel not I. Try to ping him on the mauigreen infopop board. I am on hiatis from doing veg as my time is locked into starting my new (non veg) business

IMHO best to add in a drum. Then you need a way to mix it. Don't use an elictric drill and paint stir...... spark and gas fumes.... not good. I used an air drill and a paint stir. Temporily you could mix in a smaller contaner and shack it well.

Even better when you make your filter system in your shop or garage plumb it so you can use it to circlulate the blend to ensure it mixes well. Yes blend will stay stable if stored under same expectations of gasoline.

__________________
"If anyone knows other lessons I need to learn, please tell me. I'm tired of learning them the hard way".
by JerryBro

The Glow Plug Wait: This waiting period is a moment of silence to pay honor to Rudolph Diesel. The longer you own your diesel the more honor you will give him". by SD Blue

My normal daily life; either SNAFUed- Situation Normal... All Fouled Up, or FUBARed- Fouled Up Beyond All Repair

62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD daily driver- both powered by blended UCO fuels

I got a threaded 1/4-turn lever valve at a hardware store. Buy nipples to screw onto the ends and insert with hose clamps anywhere along the coolant line that you've installed for the exchanger.

__________________
1984 300Sd 210k

Former cars:
1984 300D 445k (!!) (Strider) Original (and not rebuilt) engine and transmission. Currently running on V80 ( 80% vegetable oil, 20% petroleum products). Actually not, taking a WVO break.
1993 300d 2.5 275k. Current 120/day commuter
1981 300SD 188k (Hans) Killed by a deer

make sure this is not done inline with the OEM flow of coolant. It should be a parallel circuit. you may want to either put a valve before and after exchanger orrrrrrr.. put a check valve after. This way if you turn coolant off completely hot coolant does not get pushed into the exchanger from the back side and sit there (unless you want it to)

__________________
"If anyone knows other lessons I need to learn, please tell me. I'm tired of learning them the hard way".
by JerryBro

The Glow Plug Wait: This waiting period is a moment of silence to pay honor to Rudolph Diesel. The longer you own your diesel the more honor you will give him". by SD Blue

My normal daily life; either SNAFUed- Situation Normal... All Fouled Up, or FUBARed- Fouled Up Beyond All Repair

62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD daily driver- both powered by blended UCO fuels

As usual great information from your guys. I will do as you say. Thanks for the help. I will let you know how it goes.
Thanks
Ron

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1985 300D Gray Market 208K
1985 300D 145K