I just got back from my first test run on waste vegetable oil.

I have been piecing it all together for about a month... and adding parts every off day. Finally I got the last piece in today, the pump. After bleeding all the air from the lines and flipping the switch that controls the 6-port pollak valve the car ran just like it was on diesel, but a bit smoother, and quieter at idle.

I am using a fresh water RV tank in the trunk as my tank, and HOH lines with steel 3/8" tubing (insulated), Permacool filter, Facet Pump, Pollak 6-port vavle.

It runs well.

The facet pump that I bought at napa did not work well at all! As a trial currently I am using one of those water transfer pumps you use with a drill, and a cordless drill to power it... What kind of pump should I get to replace this ?

Just thought I would let you guys in on the good news!

BTW- This project got started just under a year ago when I bought the car needing a new engine, see my thread on the engine swap HERE

SMOOTHER!!!!!! How is that possible? When you were here you could have balanced a dime on your engine. It's discustingly smooth for a 617.

__________________
Adam Lumsden
(83) 300D
Vice-President of the MBCA International Stars Section

Congratulations Sady, I am so happy for you (and the environment). Glad to hear that you liked the conversion. I am still piecing information together and I hope to do the same in the future. Congratulations!


Thats what happens when you recycle

Congrats on the setup... i can't wait for mine..

I've started collecting oil/filtering and going to start collecting parts now.. do you have any pics of your install/setup?

__________________
'87 300D new to me
'85 300D Sold
'83 300cd Sold

Thanks for all the comments!

Yes Adam, it does seem smoother to me at idle, I dont know how this could be?

As for picture I will try to get some up today... I start school tomorrow.

If anyone has specific questions, feel free to ask away.

Glad all is well for you.
Call if you need help again.

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

If anyone lives in the Baltimore/York,Pa. area and wants to help a mechanically challenged forum member install a WVO system could you please drop me a line?

Maybe a step by step installation would help including where you got the parts for yours.

Thanks.

Cheers,

Bill

Hopefully soon I can create a step by step thread, including pictures.

But I got bad new for you Andy, you really didn't need to make any modifications to the car to burn WVO. I started putting 8 gallons of WVO in the tank, then thinning it out with 1-2 gallons of gas, or kerosene, or diesel.

Now granted withyour HIH you will be able to run in the winter months, but, that mod could have waited. What I do, is I get a cubie, and pump it through a filter, I think fram 2111 using an electric fuel pump. IT takes a few minutes (15 or so) to pump the contents , but I'm doing other things at the time.

TIP: If you're burning WVO and the engine start to not perform like it should, add 1 or 2 dollars of gas to the mixture to thin it out. I was at a point where I could (didn't want to) change the fuel filter, so I added a little petrol and the sluggishness of the too-thick veggie oil, went away.

On a side note, I drove my car 500 miles this past week and it only cost me about $5.00 in Gas!!! the rewt was WVO

Welcome to the club. It won't take long for you to save enough money from not having to buy diesel, to sav e up for another benz.

marty

www.benzbonz.biz

That would be great sady. If you don't mind send me an email to give me a heads up on the thread. Some days I just don't have the time to check the forum and don't want to miss that thread.

Thanks!

Cheers,

Bill

HERE are pictures for the moment. Please ask any questions you may have.

Hi Sady,

I am doing this too on an '85 300D. I live here in Texas and I've heard it's not required to warm the oil in hot climates, which would make the conversion a lot easier. Would you just want to add an extra filter then or could you put oil directly in the tank? I'd probably want an aux. tank in the trunk, would you just run a hose to a switcher under the hood then?

Thank You,
Nick

You definatly need an onboard filter (5 micron at least)

You will need a aux tank in the trunk.

Just one hose to a switchover valve under the engine compartment, and another one to switch the return.

Would you be using the stock lift pump or an aux. pump?

I've read about putting an extra pump in the rear, and a pressure guage up front after the filter. When the pressure gauge goes from positive to negative, you know the filter needs changing.

How about a selenoid in the filler line to switch between filling the diesel tank and the veggie tank so you don't need to open the trunk?

Is there a pump or filter in the stock Diesel fuel tank? I wanted to keep it as simple as possible, so I am looking for really clean oil to filter well and then just put in the stock tank if it would work. Maybe I'd add an electric block heater to the tank and heat the oil up with house power before driving.

It seems with all the extra under hood area behind the headlights, you could put in a 3-5gal tank under hood and it'd be really easy to heat with coolant.

Would it make any sense to heat the oil with on board electricity and turn off the heater after the oil was warm? I wonder if there are any good 12v heaters that would get oil to 170 degrees.

Thank You,
Nick

__________________
1983 300SD running on WVO soon, bought for $750!