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#1
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Austin, Heres a pic ot my glow plug WVO heater
Does anyone on the forum know how to reduce the voltage to the glow plug so it does not get as hot?
Thanks, Matt
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Matt (SD,CA) 1984 300SD.. White/Chrome Bunts..Green 1997 2500 Dodge Ram 5.9 Cummins 12 Valve 36 PSI of Boost = 400+hp & 800+tQ .. ..Greenspeed 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Quad Cab Cummins 5.9 H.O "596hp/1225tq" 6 spd. Man. Leather Heated seats/Loaded..Flame Red....GREENSPEED Global warming...Doing my part, Smokin da hippies.. Fight the good fight!...... |
#2
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If you lower the voltage enough it will be equally less-hot, every 1.2 volts or so you take away, it will be about 10% cooler. I suppose the voltage decrease can be done with a large pentiometer, or a large heavy duty resistor etc.....
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#3
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I don't know how to do that, I'm sure it would be easy, but trying to heat a glow plug to regulate temperature seems a disaster waiting to happen. There will be such point concentration of heat, you are likely to vaporize fuel in the line, and risk possible ignition.
This is assuming you are using that for an inline heater. Even if you could tone that down to a moderate temperature, and control it exactly, and put it in a tank recirc loop, rather than on the way to the engine, the lack of surface area to the glow plug for heat transfer would take forever to heat to temp. As I said earlier, I don't know your intention with that, but to me it seems a bit dangerous. Please be careful with electricity, fuel and heat outside the combustion chamber. If this is something you have past experience operating successfully, pardon my ignorance, I'm just trying to give you some feedback. John |
#4
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If you get a snap disk style of thermoswitch from an appliance repair house and install it on the return line you can have the glowplug heater cycle to maintain consistent heat. Snap disk switches are available in different trigger temperatures and you simply use one to drive a relay to power the heater. Snap disks are used in water heaters and the like. This is one of Dana Linscotts ideas. It is not dangerous to use a glowplug heater provided its properly controlled. RT
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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops! 84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K 03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K 93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K |
#5
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Its an excellent idea that is not quite properly executed. Glow plugs are designed to produce an insane amount of white-hot heat on a very small little spot, an alternative would be to construct something along the lines of a "heatsink" that the glowplug could insert into, which fuel flowed through with a lot of surface area and turbulance, so it heats up well and without a concentrated hotspot like that.
Computer watercooling heatsink blocks come into mind.....except modified so they get real hot with a glowplug, I don't think it'd be all that hard. I agree your current setup will probably vaporize/coke up the fuel along the way unless you increase the surface area or drastically lower the voltage (at which point it'd probably be useless anyways)
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#6
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To not burn the glow plug out you have one of two options:
#1: use a thermoswitch of some kind #2 Use some resistance wire. Resistance wire is what's between each glow plug in a series system. Like this Your design is very similar to others I've seen on the infopop veg. oil forum and the reports from it seem to be pretty good, you probably won't see any problems if you get it regulated somehow.
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'84 190d 2.2 - Silver Converted to 5-Speed '84 190d 2.2 - Blue Factory 5-Speed '76 300D (W115) Sold, found again in less auspicious circumstances |
#7
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Quote:
Thanks, thats the kind of info I needed!!!
__________________
Matt (SD,CA) 1984 300SD.. White/Chrome Bunts..Green 1997 2500 Dodge Ram 5.9 Cummins 12 Valve 36 PSI of Boost = 400+hp & 800+tQ .. ..Greenspeed 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Quad Cab Cummins 5.9 H.O "596hp/1225tq" 6 spd. Man. Leather Heated seats/Loaded..Flame Red....GREENSPEED Global warming...Doing my part, Smokin da hippies.. Fight the good fight!...... |
#8
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Matt
1. The glowplug will last indefinetly without burning out as long as there is a flow of liquid going through it... which there will be.
2. There are 12v glow plugs for Fords that will not get any hotter than 150degrees F. So you don't have to reduce the voltage... 3: Matt, What are the parts called that you used to build this thang? I am ready to put one together tomorrow.... AA
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'87 924S '81 280SEL Sold -> 81 300SD - 93 300E w/ 3.2 85 300D- 79 300SD 82 300CD 83 300CD - CA 87 190E 5 spd 87 Porsche 924S "..I'll take a simple "C" to "G" and feel brand new about it..." |
#9
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Quote:
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'87 924S '81 280SEL Sold -> 81 300SD - 93 300E w/ 3.2 85 300D- 79 300SD 82 300CD 83 300CD - CA 87 190E 5 spd 87 Porsche 924S "..I'll take a simple "C" to "G" and feel brand new about it..." |
#10
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1..3/8 Steel T fitting
2.. 3/8 brass barbed fittings 1.. Brass fitting that fits the T & Glow plug Austin, Call me if you need more help. Oh yeah, Can you find out what the part# is for the low heat glow plug is?
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Matt (SD,CA) 1984 300SD.. White/Chrome Bunts..Green 1997 2500 Dodge Ram 5.9 Cummins 12 Valve 36 PSI of Boost = 400+hp & 800+tQ .. ..Greenspeed 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Quad Cab Cummins 5.9 H.O "596hp/1225tq" 6 spd. Man. Leather Heated seats/Loaded..Flame Red....GREENSPEED Global warming...Doing my part, Smokin da hippies.. Fight the good fight!...... |
#11
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Quote:
You would attain one of the "waterblocks" pictured below, then attach a heating element and/or glowplug to it by way such as milling out a little hole in it, making threads for the gp, then "sealing" it into the block so it has good thermal conductivity. I'd think this would work pretty good due to the large heating surface area for the flowing oil/fuel......
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#12
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Well now we are talking. i have built many custom watercooling setups for my pc and the best way to heat your fuel would be with a peltier (TEC) and a waterblock. one side of the peltier needs a heatsink(to cool it) and the other side gets extremely hot. i use a 220W peltier with my pc, and it will have a equally cold side. most are made to run at 12v, and are easily attached and made into a fuel heating module.
the H is the hot side, the other gets cold, and in case of the processor it cools it so it runs faster. you would just need a simple heatsink on one side of the peltier and the other side has what pawoSD has pictured, your run the fuel through that, and all is well. i think i will build one with my extra parts i have and show you guys. in the pics below is my peltier from my pc, it removes heat, but all i have to do is turn it around and it would add heat to my chip. in this case we need heat added to the fuel.
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Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD White '95 E300D 46k SOLD Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned |
#13
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I think the waterblock idea is a bit overkill (no to say they don't work, they do and well) its just not necessary . The WVO will be flowing past the trip rather fast so damage to fuel is extraordinarily unlikely (vaporization won't be a factor) and heat will get transferred to the pipe which will then be conducted into the oil. The pipe design is cheap and easy and works well enough that there is no real reason to lathe out a block design.
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'84 190d 2.2 - Silver Converted to 5-Speed '84 190d 2.2 - Blue Factory 5-Speed '76 300D (W115) Sold, found again in less auspicious circumstances |
#14
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Glow plug heater didn't work for me
I was trying to heat wvo for use in my 1.6L N/A Rabbit and I used a Bosch gp from the Rabbit and a tee fitting. Even at idle, that Rabbit pushed enough fuel through the fitting to completely cool the glow plug. As soon as I'd stop the motor, the gp would heat way up. Start the motor again, and it cooled right off to damn near nothing. I was hoping for about 150F, but wound up with a little more than ambient.
Your mileage may vary. Chris Boyer San Diego, CA |
#15
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Quote:
HUh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! How does this relate to reducing the voltage to my Glow Plug heater Thats the orginal Q I had asked I guess its hard to stay on the same page somtimes
__________________
Matt (SD,CA) 1984 300SD.. White/Chrome Bunts..Green 1997 2500 Dodge Ram 5.9 Cummins 12 Valve 36 PSI of Boost = 400+hp & 800+tQ .. ..Greenspeed 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Quad Cab Cummins 5.9 H.O "596hp/1225tq" 6 spd. Man. Leather Heated seats/Loaded..Flame Red....GREENSPEED Global warming...Doing my part, Smokin da hippies.. Fight the good fight!...... Last edited by Matt SD300; 11-09-2005 at 07:24 AM. |
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