On Dewatering & Microbes in WVO - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Austin85 · #1 11-13-2005, 12:21 AM

What I'm doing to run clean WVO:
Getting clean oil.
Filter into 55 gallon drum thru old shirts or bedsheets
Letting this settle 5-7 days (allows water and any sludge to settle to bottom)
With rotary hand pump from Harbour Freight; pump off top into 2nd stage of filtering; A 5 micron (McMaster Carr) bag filter.
Let settle a day or more; then pump from top into 5 gallon fuel container & blend with 1 gallon of RUG; 2 oz Powerservice Cetane Boost; 1 oz Acetone.

For additional water /condesation / microbe protection adding 1 oz of this enzyme catalyst; http://www.starbrite.com/whatsnew/2004%20BoatUS%20Ad%20(Startron).PDF
I was reffered to this by forum dude and after reading this which is on the bottle neck brouchure I am sold....1st 1 oz today is in and I will be checking fuel filters for progress. Alot has been posted about dewatering WVO prior to adding to the tank, but that doesn't address the condensation that happens once it's sitting in the tank.
aa

Matt SD300 · #2 11-13-2005, 01:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Austin85

What I'm doing to run clean WVO:
Getting clean oil.
Filter into 55 gallon drum thru old shirts or bedsheets
Letting this settle 5-7 days (allows water and any sludge to settle to bottom)
With rotary hand pump from Harbour Freight; pump off top into 2nd stage of filtering; A 5 micron (McMaster Carr) bag filter.
Let settle a day or more; then pump from top into 5 gallon fuel container & blend with 1 gallon of RUG; 2 oz Powerservice Cetane Boost; 1 oz Acetone.

For additional water /condesation / microbe protection adding 1 oz of this enzyme catalyst; http://www.starbrite.com/whatsnew/2004%20BoatUS%20Ad%20(Startron).PDF
I was reffered to this by forum dude and after reading this which is on the bottle neck brouchure I am sold....1st 1 oz today is in and I will be checking fuel filters for progress. Alot has been posted about dewatering WVO prior to adding to the tank, but that doesn't address the condensation that happens once it's sitting in the tank.
aa

Im not sure how clean your oil is?.........but your doing alot more filtering & work than I am!

.... "I have had NO break downs"... & I have had "NO" side of the road filter changes in 13,000 miles on CLEAN WVO/RuG BLENDING & I have also gone 8,000 miles on my primary filter...

GREAT OIL FROM THE START IS THE KEY!!!!

Your Bud, that got you started on RUG/WVO BLENDING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Matt ................ P.s Keep posting

pmari · #3 11-13-2005, 01:45 AM

You may be interested in one of these http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=11948&R=11948 works great with WVO and blends.

Austin85 · #4 11-13-2005, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt SD300

Im not sure how clean your oil is?.........but your doing alot more filtering & work than I am!

.... "I have had NO break downs"... & I have had "NO" side of the road filter changes in 13,000 miles on CLEAN WVO/RuG BLENDING & I have also gone 8,000 miles on my primary filter...

GREAT OIL FROM THE START IS THE KEY!!!!

Your Bud, that got you started on RUG/WVO BLENDING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Matt ................ P.s Keep posting

No Sheet......I am doing all this extra filtering because all I can come up with is the WVO isn't clean enough to start. I have had to change out filters plenty of times, so these steps seem right. There are plenty of users who filter in 2 stages........However; I am looking for another oil source; 'cause I did find out yesterday that the kitchen help at SushiYama has been mixing the meat fryer and the veggie fryer together into my pails....If it was my restaurant, I'd fire them but it's not......

And the Starbrite additive at the end is to address condensation and black specs....which BTW my primary is actually still clean after 200 miles!!!

iceman3876 · #5 11-13-2005, 04:50 PM

you guys are braver than me...I am such a chicken to try that WVO stuff...I know you guys are making it work..but I have been scared to death by truckers and just reading all the filter problems associated with the WVO usage...my hat is off to you..bok bok

pdrayton · #6 08-19-2006, 12:35 PM

Any reports on the Star Brite stuff? Did it do anything?

Where do you buy it?

I'm using WVO and my primary filter is black with gunk after a tank. It's probably just the crap that was in there anyway, so I don't see it as a problem - benefit actually - my tank is getting a cleaning.

Lostyankee · #7 08-19-2006, 02:01 PM

I use a RUG mix in the diesel, kerosene mix in a turk style shop heater and in a Toyotomi direct vented heater. I plan on making 300 gallons of biofuel for theToyotomi as the past mix created a two week cleaning schedule.
I have looked into many processes for making bio, but few posters have a handle on their costs. Source of Methonal is a issue. Race track supplier will deliver 55 gallon drum at $3.00/gallon.
My source is not the best oil. 1 out of 4 jugs (origional containers) is iffy. In the past I tried to use this darker oil but now it goes to pig farmers or kills weeds in the driveway.
I have two methods of filtering oil. 1. converted an old chest freezer to hold two 'shelf' or tray style filters made from Wally World fleese. One filter is roughly 5 micron, the other 1 micron. 8" off the bottom (compressor shelf) is a 500 GPH 12V bilge pump and another one on the bottom. A modified 15 gallon ag chemical prefilters oil to 20 micron. This system is sized to my WVO collection so I can add two jugs per day. A waterbed heater (submersable) keeps this oil at 65* in the winter. 2. Is a 15 gallon ag chemical drum with two 5 or 1 micron sock filters from Cole Plamer and Ebay (8' 1 micons x 5" for $2.00 each in a bag of 5). When 1/2 full I can pour filtered oil into a 5 gallon pail or pump it out.
With these two filtering systems I can custom mix for the MB & weather conditions and if the large filter system clogs, I have a backup.
Storage: 3 - 275 gallon HHO tanks& several 55s on stands.
Truk shop heater has a 4 gallon water heater preheating the oil and this water tank is gravity fed by a 5 gallon tank sitting on the turk to avoid element burnout if the water heater runs empty.
I filter the oil, pump or pour oil into a 275 drum where it settles for 1 month depending on weather. These drums have a floating oil pickup so I pump off the top 6". Water and any crud is drained off twice a year.

?Does anyone else have blue smoke from a RUG mix? Mix =s 20% RUG. My 300SD smokes blue till op. temp. Adding Diesel lessons the smoke. Engine does not use engine oil more than expected. I realy don't care, but I'm tired of folk telling me my rings/valves are shot. Using a 50% kerosene or diesel mix in warm weather did not create blue smoke.

If you are making biodiesel: instead of removing the fouled fuel tank, try draining an almost empty tank, hook up the fuel line, add 5 gallons alcohol, rock the car and drain through the fuel line at the perfilter. This may not be the best method but is far easier than removing the tank. I filtered the alcohol to 1 micron and saved it for biofuel.

?Does anyone have a inexpensive source of 12V pad heaters for going behind the IP to nozzle lines?

dannym · #8 08-19-2006, 03:50 PM

I filter into my holding tank with bedsheets. I went to Ross and got 2 320ct sheets for $10. 320ct was the highest I could find.
After it settles anywhere from 3 to 7 days I filter again into cubes. It makes it easy because I filter into cubes then use the same filters to filter new oil into the tank.

As far as water in the oil I think it's mostly speculation. I did some experiments with oil and water and the water did not mix with the oil unless it was vigorously shaken in. At which point after "settling" for 3 months the water still hadn't dropped out. IMHO it's almost impossible to get water to mix with oil just going from a fryer into a cube or a drum.

As far as biocide I use it all the time except once when I ran out. I figured "What could go wrong?"
Well a lot went wrong. I developed such a bad case of fungus I couldn't go more than 100 miles without changing the filters.
Startron saved the day for me. 2 tankfuls and a few ounces of Startron and I have gone over 1,000 miles without changing filters and still going strong.
I will never mix a batch of WVO without Startron again.

What is the purpose of adding Acetone?

Danny

fireman1073 · #9 08-19-2006, 04:48 PM

I have been using a whole house water filter with the string wound element at 10 micron.

It is pumped with a small centrifigal water pump from ebay, self priming once the pump is full of oil.

I filter straight from the cubies to my tank.

no additives, no settling.

I run a two tank heated system with hose in hose on the supply and return lines.

I had tried blending cold oil in the main tank and had black specs in the pre filter and some low power issues.

Since heating i have no problems.

Steve

Austin85 · #10 08-19-2006, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdrayton

Any reports on the Star Brite stuff? Did it do anything?

Where do you buy it?

I'm using WVO and my primary filter is black with gunk after a tank. It's probably just the crap that was in there anyway, so I don't see it as a problem - benefit actually - my tank is getting a cleaning.

Wow An old thread revived.....

You can get Startron stuff at Boat supply stores, like West Marine.
I still use the diesel additive everytime I add WVO. No gunk or filter problems since.

AA

**DannyM The acetone is used to help thin out the WVO. Also great for cleaning dried cooking oil off the side of the car by the fuel cover, the trunk, and the garage floor.....

Jmana · #11 08-19-2006, 11:10 PM

Prefiltering is too much work. All you need to do is let the stuff settle for a week or so, and have a really good fuel filter onboard, one that is coolant heated and has a drain valve at the bottom. No prefilters, they will clog quick and are a pain to change. Additives don't seem to do much, I think it's more of a mental comfort thing for most people, but unless it's cold out they aren't going to help anything.