300D runnin better on D/WVO blend.
 

I am hoping someone can explain this . I have been running my 300D on a blend for 2000 miles or so. First on 80/20 WVO, RUG.
Always had to change filters every week or so. Went through all kinds of tank cleaners and biocides. Still had trouble with this blend. So I went back to just Diesel for a tank or so , and it ran clean and fine......but I have all this WVO and once you go VO you never go back (:
Tried WVO/RUG again after the Diesel and it still would lose power. Even with clean filters.
So, for last 3 weeks I've been running a blend of 50% Diesel 50% WVO, and no issues at all. Except it still rattles like a Diesel and I would rather save $$$ and use my WVO supply.
Now a couple of nites ago I ran out of fuel....(bad sender unit.) and only had a couple of gallons of WVO in my trunk and it ran fine , actually better on straight WVO.
Today, on an almost empty tank I put in a blend of 20 Diesel and 80% WVO and it is running fine again......not complaining, but,
Anyone explain how this makes any sense????

Questions
 

What are your average ambient temperatures? Do you still heat the fuel when you run a WVO blend?

If you run unheated WVO for long enough you will sieze your engine and reck your injectors because of carbon buildup. You engine is real tough so it will take a little bit longer to happen in your car, but its only a matter of time.

There have been many tests done on running engines on unheated WVO. All those I have read have resulted in engine failure. I do not know at what blend percentage a mixture becomes "safe" to use.

Where do you get this stuff?
 

What do you mean CSSOTH, that running unheated WVO will cause your engine to sieze up. Who is feeding you this bull?

In so. FL. it's been in the 70's and 80's....occaisionally into the 60's at nite.
Never heat any fuel here....

Uhhhh... yeah thanks for mentioning that....These engines were built to run on Oil, right? Let's get some data on long term use of unheated WVO in a W123 causing engine siezure. FWIW if It wasn't 70-80 degrees here everyday I would heat the oil...

i found these two at frybrid.

http://www.frybrid.com/docs.htm

there were plenty, but nothing jumped out except these.


http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_SVO-palm.html

Wear in the engines fueled by refined palm oil and diesel oil is not significantly different but wear in the compression rings of the engine fueled by refined palm oil is significantly higher.

http://valenergol.free.fr/dossiers/IPTS/Short%20note%20on%20pure%20plant%20oil.pdf

Extensive testing by the engine industry has shown that unmodified engines,
while operating satisfactorily, would quickly develop durability problems, due to
problems with fuel injectors, piston rings and lubrication oil stability. For this
reason the engine must be modified.


david

Too much RUG in a blend will cause problems of predetonation.
If your looking to run a 80/20 blend and are having power issues, try using some cetane boost.

As for the results you experianced....? I'd only be guessing. But your engine was warm already when you added the wvo, so no cold start issues.

If you engine prefers a more diluted blend, give it to her. Try different combos. How about 70wvo/20diesel/10RUG ? I bet she'll like that! A little cetane boost will work wonders too.

PMari;

I always add cetane boost.
I am considering trying out a blend of 20 gallons WVO; 16 oz of PS Cetane boost; 8 oz acetone, and 1 oz of Startron Diesel additive.....

(I figure the Cetane boost would cost about $4.00 if buying the bigger size at WalMart...$1.25 for acetone....and .50 for Startron = $5.75 total for a full tank of fuel.)
AA

HUH???

The truth...= $5.75 additives +4 gallons of RUG for $10.00= over 15.00 :confused:

No dude...I was gonna try this without the RUG..............I figure if it ran OK for me on straight WVO, when I had to put in a few gallons on my empty tank, then I would try 100% WVO with the 16 oz. Cetane boost , and acetone to thin it out , "and prevent Gelling", the Startron DA, and see how it runs on that.

Single tank... no heat running straight WVO..:eek:

Well.. as long as you have AAA you should be fine:rolleyes:

That would be a thumbs down.....(-:>

No AAA but with the facet pump, and temps in the 70's, wouldn't it make it to the IP and burn?

YOUR PRIMARY FILTER (SPIN ON) IS GOING TO CLOG FAST...two steps back one forward:o

Show me the damage.
 

Show me the damage or lead me to someone who has first hand information about it. There is lots of bad information out there put forth by people who have no real experience but are willing to swear on a crock of Bibles that they know what they spew. Journey to forever is a prime example.

This isn't much to go on and all these cars live outside the tundra zone.

First hand information on four cars in Socal and one in Hawaii running filtered WVO from Japanese restaraunts.

My 1984 300D. Just under 20,000 miles. Injectors and piston tops looked normal. NO FILTER changes since I use clean dewatered WVO.

My shop owners 1985 300CD. 14,000 miles with no filter changes.

His wife's 1984 300D. 10,000 miles and one secondary filter change.

My 1980 300SD. 6,000 miles and no filter changes.

A girlfriend's 1983 300CD in Hawaii. 8,000 miles and one primary and one secondary filter change.

NO fuel heaters. No additives other than two gallons of RUG per tank for the cars that get below 45 degrees. If we used a block heater we wouldn't need the RUG except to lower the viscosity.