Have about 100 miles since dumping in 10 gals of fresh soybean oil. The smell kind of reminds me of a cross between popcorn and my old 2 stroke dirt bike running Castor oil (I use to love the smell of that exhaust).

So far it seems to run quieter, smoother and by seat of the pants faster. My lowest elevation is about 2500 ft. The exhaust seems cleaner which brings me to my questions.

1. Logic tells me that the soot levels drop, in which case the engine oil must remain cleaner longer. Is the soot level lower and does engine oil visually7 remain cleaner longer?

2. If yes to the above; am I correct in that the air intake and components would not have the black goop buildup?

3. Has anyone done an oil analysis to see what happens to the soot level and other particulates and / or the metal levels in the analysis as compared to running #2.

Thanks and
Have a great day.
Don

__________________
1980 300TD-T (82 Turbo and Trans) 159,000 Miles "Jackie-O"
1983 300SD 272,000 Miles "Aristotle"
1987 Jeep Wagoneer Limited - keeps the MB's off the ice and out of the snow
1994 BMW 530it

adding veggie oil to the fuel will do nothing with soot in the oil... here is an example.. you do an oil change. the new oil is nice and honey colored.. 10 minutes later its black again. there is always going to be soot left in the oil from the previous change because of the oil cooler, if you put a bypass oil fitler like a franz or gulf coast it will get rid of the soot in the oil

I had the thought the source of the soot was combustion, isn't it? And if cleaner the oil would seem to be impacted.


Don

__________________
1980 300TD-T (82 Turbo and Trans) 159,000 Miles "Jackie-O"
1983 300SD 272,000 Miles "Aristotle"
1987 Jeep Wagoneer Limited - keeps the MB's off the ice and out of the snow
1994 BMW 530it

it is.. but worrying about the soot in the oil is like filling a bucket full of holes.. plus the oil is designed to trap soot..

well,
I run 100% veggie oil, 100% of the time...

my oil is still black... but perhaps with time it will clear up...
diesel makes soot and veggie oil makes carbon and coke...

ummmm.... soot is mainly carbon and coke.

Veggie oil still makes soot. In fact in some cases it may make more because it doesn't atomize as well as diesel fuel.

__________________
green 85 300SD 200K miles "Das Schlepper Frog" With a OM603 TBO360 turbo ( To be intercooled someday )( Kalifornistani emissons )
white 79 300SD 200K'ish miles "Farfegnugen" (RIP - cracked crank)
desert storm primer 63 T-bird "The Undead" (long term hibernation)

http://ecomodder.com/forum/fe-graphs/sig692a.png

well, if soot is carbon and coke then we
have no hope of clean oil... so sorry pal...

there are people using bypass filters that will remove the soot...

Running Vegetable oil has little effect on reducing overall soot. In fact, if your system isn't heated properly, or you aren't adding a solvent for thinning, your fuel atomization will be poor and soot might increase.

As for oil quality, vegetable oil has little effect plus or minus, except in the case of a worn engine, with excessive blowby, the vegetable oil can actually combine with crankcase oil and polymerize. There are a number of documented cases of engine failure from this.

I'm not trying to discourage you at all, but be aware there is a need to do things correctly for your climate, or run a risk of damaging your Mercedes.

Ben

That's exactly why you don't run straight vegetable oil. Your IP and injectors aren't designed for it.

Danny

__________________
1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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Until proven by some type of actual event, I will use the engine idle smoothness, quietness and power as my guide.

The reason I asked if anyone did oil analysis was to help guide me on oil changes.

Don

__________________
1980 300TD-T (82 Turbo and Trans) 159,000 Miles "Jackie-O"
1983 300SD 272,000 Miles "Aristotle"
1987 Jeep Wagoneer Limited - keeps the MB's off the ice and out of the snow
1994 BMW 530it

If people here can go six thousand miles between oil changes on regular diesel with no problems then just change your oil every four or five thousand miles and you should do fine. If you don't run all synthetic oil try just adding 2 quarts of synthetic the next oil change. It should help keep some of the soot in suspension as well as providing other benefits. Installing a frantz bypass oil filter would deffinitly help keep the soot levels down.

As far as running SVO in your car its your choice. I personally am looking at it. The best way is to run it in a two tank system with a preheater. Once it heats up the viscosity drops to just above that of diesel. As far as longevity of your injectors and injector pump proper filtering and dewatering is essential. I would also make sure you get a full purge before shutting the car off.

__________________
green 85 300SD 200K miles "Das Schlepper Frog" With a OM603 TBO360 turbo ( To be intercooled someday )( Kalifornistani emissons )
white 79 300SD 200K'ish miles "Farfegnugen" (RIP - cracked crank)
desert storm primer 63 T-bird "The Undead" (long term hibernation)

http://ecomodder.com/forum/fe-graphs/sig692a.png

I am running fresh SVO not WVO so water won't be an issue.

I am not trying to add miles between changes. Just looking for evidence of it running cleaner and therefore would assume lower soot numbers as compared to diesel would be evident in an oil analysis.

In all that I have read particulates drop significantly running soybean oil. If particulates (the smoke and gunk we see) are lower that can only mean a more efficient compression ignition and combustion of the fuel mixture and therefore the cleaner exhaust.

If the aftermath (the exhaust) is cleaner then by-products or deposits within the engine should be as well.

In the reading I have done, for our engine (not all diesels) there is no negative impact on longevity of parts, rather it is suggested that the engine will last longer as it is getting additional lubrication from the soybean oil. Frankly I don't see how that can occur while at the same time burn more cleanly (shrugs shoulders).

I did see a comparative report done a couple of dodge trucks as between each other and diesel vs SVO. I think it had oil analysis reports so I shall look for it.


Don

__________________
1980 300TD-T (82 Turbo and Trans) 159,000 Miles "Jackie-O"
1983 300SD 272,000 Miles "Aristotle"
1987 Jeep Wagoneer Limited - keeps the MB's off the ice and out of the snow
1994 BMW 530it

Today I collected 5 gals of wvo from the grocery store, and yesterday I collected 5 gals from a bar. The bar filtered the oil as they drained it...So i poured it straight into my tank... without any processing at all...it was peanut oil... my car is running fine...My 83 300sd has 267k miles and I have thousands of miles on wvo and I only have one tank...

I dont believe anything anymore... they told us we could only use diesel, then they told us we had to make it into biodiesel, then they told us we had to heat it... So i dont believe anything anymore... I only believe what I can see... and I pour the oil right into the tank....In another 30k i will dissamble my engine...but it will be ok....

The only thing i have done to my car is add a napa 23002 inline filter right before the first plastic filter... I change it often... it cost 1.99 and I change the others every 3 or 4 months....I filter my wvo through a bluejean leg once....

here is a paper on the ill effects of svo.... but they say it clogs
the engine over the long term... and I am sure that if your engine
will run say 200k on svo rather than 300k on diesel the 200k till rebuild
would be worth it....It cost .12cents a mile to drive on diesel vs 0 on wvo.
so that is 12000 dollars of driving 100k.... so the 24-36k dollars you save
driving is worth the early rebuild....plus the benefit to the environment and the freedom from the middle east.

http://www.biodiesel.org/pdf_files/fuelfactsheets/clean_cities_SVOpaper.pdf

brave of you.. what are they filtering it down to? 50 mesh which is somewhere in the neighborhood of 300 microns? what about water content? your crazy...