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  #1  
Old 12-30-2006, 01:58 AM
Blevinsax's Avatar
'91 350SD GreaseCar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 480
Question Power Service Diesel Kleen in WVO?

I was just given a bottle of Diesel Kleen for Christmas by a fellow diesel driver - obviously I can use it in my main tank with the B20, but would it hurt/help to add a few ounces to my WVO tank?

I have a GreaseCar system and a VegTherm Mega installed, so my WVO is running very hot - how would HOT WVO with Diesel Kleen in it impact the injection pump, etc.? Might that be dangerous - hot Diesel Kleen going into the motor???

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Autos:
1991 350SD 276,000 miles
2001 VW Beetle TDI 115,000 miles

Horns:
1955 Selmer Mark VI Alto (55,xxx)
1958 Selmer Mark VI Tenor (85,xxx)
1964 Selmer Mark VI Tenor (125,xxx)
1967 King Super-20 Tenor (430,xxx)
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  #2  
Old 12-30-2006, 02:01 AM
ForcedInduction
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I don't see how it could hurt. Some people use gasoline to thin their WVO.
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  #3  
Old 12-30-2006, 02:03 AM
Blevinsax's Avatar
'91 350SD GreaseCar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 480
Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
I don't see how it could hurt. Some people use gasoline to thin their WVO.
Now that you mention it, that's right. I had forgotten about that. I guess a little bit of Diesel Kleen couldn't be any worse than gasoline.
__________________
Autos:
1991 350SD 276,000 miles
2001 VW Beetle TDI 115,000 miles

Horns:
1955 Selmer Mark VI Alto (55,xxx)
1958 Selmer Mark VI Tenor (85,xxx)
1964 Selmer Mark VI Tenor (125,xxx)
1967 King Super-20 Tenor (430,xxx)
2002 Selmer Series III Soprano

For Jazz Saxophone enthusiasts - check out my website...
www.RustyBlevins.com
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  #4  
Old 12-30-2006, 03:07 PM
Professional smart ass
 
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Once I ran my car entirely on Diesel Kleen for ten minutes after I ran out of gas. I think thats the best my car has ever sounded!
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  #5  
Old 12-30-2006, 04:18 PM
Blevinsax's Avatar
'91 350SD GreaseCar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 480
What about HOT (180F) Diesel Kleen, though?

My only real question is whether it is alright to run HOT WVO (around 80C) with Diesel Kleen in it - do you think that the added heat will make a significant difference, good or bad?
Could the Diesel Kleen react adversely with the WVO in any way?

I had thought about adding the Diesel Kleen to my WVO drum so it would be mixed before I filter it. If the Diesel Kleen were to cause any wax fallout, it could be filtered out by my 2-micron filtration setup with the other crud. What about that idea?
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Autos:
1991 350SD 276,000 miles
2001 VW Beetle TDI 115,000 miles

Horns:
1955 Selmer Mark VI Alto (55,xxx)
1958 Selmer Mark VI Tenor (85,xxx)
1964 Selmer Mark VI Tenor (125,xxx)
1967 King Super-20 Tenor (430,xxx)
2002 Selmer Series III Soprano

For Jazz Saxophone enthusiasts - check out my website...
www.RustyBlevins.com
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  #6  
Old 12-31-2006, 02:35 AM
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I use Diesel Kleen in my WVO all the time. It's great for keeping oil liquid in cold temps.
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  #7  
Old 03-24-2007, 03:19 AM
Blevinsax's Avatar
'91 350SD GreaseCar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 480
Got some wet WVO - drained tank, changed filter, added Power Service... what next?

Okay - it happened, and now I'm dealing with it...

I got a bad tank of WVO and it started choking up... I drained the tank and sure enough the grease was milky - a sure sign of wet WVO. I have changed the fuel filter in the GreaseCar system twice already, but runs fine for about 30 minutes, then starts choking up again. I haven't changed the filter for the third time yet, but I will tomorrow morning. I also added a bit of Power Service to the new (clean & DRY) WVO I put in the tank.

Is there anything else I can do to help remedy this problem sooner rather than later? A fellow WVO'er here mentioned that some kerosene will help dry the WVO - would anyone here recommend that as well?

Of course I know that I MUST filter my oil well - I've already tackled that and I will be paying MUCH closer attention to what goes into my tank.
__________________
Autos:
1991 350SD 276,000 miles
2001 VW Beetle TDI 115,000 miles

Horns:
1955 Selmer Mark VI Alto (55,xxx)
1958 Selmer Mark VI Tenor (85,xxx)
1964 Selmer Mark VI Tenor (125,xxx)
1967 King Super-20 Tenor (430,xxx)
2002 Selmer Series III Soprano

For Jazz Saxophone enthusiasts - check out my website...
www.RustyBlevins.com
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  #8  
Old 03-24-2007, 08:22 AM
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Location: Holliston, Massachusetts
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Hey Blevinsax,

Does the WVO smell awful, b/c that could be an infection, but I suppose you probably would have mentioned that. Filtering better won't affect water content. Are you getting the veg oil out of a dumpster? Ideally, if you can get the source to put them back in the cubies that can do wonders for keeping water out.

What's your filtering method? For about a year now, I've been using gravity filtering through thick denim (into a barrel) and then pumping through a goldenrod filter. That seems to work pretty well, although I have one source that has a lot of flour in the oil and that clogs my denim filters REAL fast.

Do you dewater?

Good luck!

Chuck
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  #9  
Old 03-24-2007, 08:37 AM
jshadows's Avatar
Bob
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Paris, FR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blevinsax View Post
Okay - it happened, and now I'm dealing with it...

I got a bad tank of WVO and it started choking up... I drained the tank and sure enough the grease was milky - a sure sign of wet WVO. I have changed the fuel filter in the GreaseCar system twice already, but runs fine for about 30 minutes, then starts choking up again. I haven't changed the filter for the third time yet, but I will tomorrow morning. I also added a bit of Power Service to the new (clean & DRY) WVO I put in the tank.

Is there anything else I can do to help remedy this problem sooner rather than later? A fellow WVO'er here mentioned that some kerosene will help dry the WVO - would anyone here recommend that as well?

Of course I know that I MUST filter my oil well - I've already tackled that and I will be paying MUCH closer attention to what goes into my tank.
Rather than changing filters I recommend running compressed air through the PEX line from the car back to the tank. Make sure the tank is OPEN, otherwise this could produce a bigger problem.

Kerosene will not on it's own "dry" WVO but perhaps it can force the WVO and water to separate better. You'd probably be just as well off letting the WVO settle a little bit longer or better filtering to get rid of the bits that retain water (the food).

DieselKleen : I have put it in my VO before but it doesn't mix. It forms a very weak emulsion with the dieselkleen creating small bubbles within the VO. Better off putting it in the diesel tank.

If you're looking for cleaning properties try a tank full of b100 to run through which may break down some of the junk a little better.

As far as mixing other things with hot WVO I wouldn't worry about it too much. We couldn't use it as a cooking product if it was likely to react with things we put in it. It's a pretty inert hot or cold.
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  #10  
Old 03-24-2007, 12:17 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Arvada, Colorado
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Stanadyne

I have ran Over the Road Class 8 diesels for years. The only product that I will use to add to my diesel fuel is Stanadyne. Check out their literature. You will find they are the most approved diesel additive on the market. They also manufacture injection systems for diesels. I doubt many of the other additive companies can say that. I know this does not help with your original question, but it may down the line
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  #11  
Old 03-24-2007, 01:42 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blevinsax View Post
Okay - it happened, and now I'm dealing with it...

I got a bad tank of WVO and it started choking up... I drained the tank and sure enough the grease was milky - a sure sign of wet WVO. I have changed the fuel filter in the GreaseCar system twice already, but runs fine for about 30 minutes, then starts choking up again. I haven't changed the filter for the third time yet, but I will tomorrow morning. I also added a bit of Power Service to the new (clean & DRY) WVO I put in the tank.

Is there anything else I can do to help remedy this problem sooner rather than later? A fellow WVO'er here mentioned that some kerosene will help dry the WVO - would anyone here recommend that as well?

Of course I know that I MUST filter my oil well - I've already tackled that and I will be paying MUCH closer attention to what goes into my tank.
It sounds like you are not removing water well enough. Heat, time and no convection currents is the easiest way to remove water. With proper settling and filtering, I have NEVER had to change a WVO fuel filter in any of my cars and my 2 micron filter at home lasts for well over 1000 gallons.
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'85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
'83 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980:
'83 Mercedes 240D
'80 Audi 4000D
'83 ISUZU Pup
'70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel
'76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel
'86 Golf
Several diesel generators
All with 2 tank WVO conversion
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  #12  
Old 03-24-2007, 10:35 PM
Blevinsax's Avatar
'91 350SD GreaseCar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 480
I fixed my wet WVO problem - now the car problem...

I found the problem with my filtration setup - I had a build-up of condensation and general gunk in the bottom of my tank. I pumped out the bottom of my tank and a good bit of nastiness came out. Fortunately, my regular pump draws from about 6" off the bottom - I just have to watch what is going into my tank and also periodically pump the settled garbage off the bottom of my drum. I think I'll be okay - live and learn, I guess!

But - back to the car - it seems the wet WVO problem has exacerbated my previously existing air leak problem! I have changed the fuel filter 3 times in the last 4 days, but it still seems the be 'sucking air' especially when the pedal is down. If it gets a bubble at an inopportune time - like idling at a stoplight or slowing to round a turn - the motor will actually shut off, forcing me to pull over and restart. It's a real pain, but is it just a matter of time to get it back to normal? I know I have to get to the bottom of my air leak, but I'm having a tough time finding it with my lack of mechanical ability (as well as a serious lack of tools.)

Other than better filtration of my WVO, does anyone have any other suggestions that might help?

***EDIT***

I remembered that after I pumped the wet WVO from the tank, I added just a little clean/dry WVO along with some Power Service Diesel additive - apparently I didn't add enough to get a good prime in the system. I added more WVO this afternoon - up to about 3/4 tank - and it ran much better with no choking/starving. Maybe I shouldn't jinx it, though - it ran much better tonight, but I'll see how it does tomorrow! Wish me luck!!!
__________________
Autos:
1991 350SD 276,000 miles
2001 VW Beetle TDI 115,000 miles

Horns:
1955 Selmer Mark VI Alto (55,xxx)
1958 Selmer Mark VI Tenor (85,xxx)
1964 Selmer Mark VI Tenor (125,xxx)
1967 King Super-20 Tenor (430,xxx)
2002 Selmer Series III Soprano

For Jazz Saxophone enthusiasts - check out my website...
www.RustyBlevins.com

Last edited by Blevinsax; 03-25-2007 at 03:03 AM.
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  #13  
Old 03-28-2007, 03:39 AM
Blevinsax's Avatar
'91 350SD GreaseCar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 480
Heat causes air leak in WVO line...

I've been driving the car for the last couple days and although it seems to have recovered from the wet WVO, it is now getting an air leak in my WVO line that has little to no effect when running at or below 80C, but if I turn on the A/C or sit on traffic and the temp goes above 80C it starts hiccuping and sometimes shuts off.

Has anyone had a similar problem with air leaks when the engine is warm, but not when cool - particularly with a 2-tank WVO setup? Is there anywhere in particular that I should start looking for the leak since it seems to be heat sensitive?

I just bought about 10' of new hi-temp/hi-quality fuel line, so I am going to replace all my old and funky fuel lines. Hopefully that will help some - not sure if it will solve the problem or not, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

These air leaks are real bastards - I think perhaps my rough idle problem is due to an air leak because the car runs PERFECT when I start it in the morning - then it starts to shake as it warms up and runs more and more all day.

Anyhow, any advice/experience is greatly appreciated.

P.S. What size fuel line are the return lines between the injectors?
__________________
Autos:
1991 350SD 276,000 miles
2001 VW Beetle TDI 115,000 miles

Horns:
1955 Selmer Mark VI Alto (55,xxx)
1958 Selmer Mark VI Tenor (85,xxx)
1964 Selmer Mark VI Tenor (125,xxx)
1967 King Super-20 Tenor (430,xxx)
2002 Selmer Series III Soprano

For Jazz Saxophone enthusiasts - check out my website...
www.RustyBlevins.com
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  #14  
Old 03-28-2007, 10:05 AM
Diesel Dan's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 264
Randy,
One way to track down air leaks is to install clear polypropylene, or polyethylene fuel hose. I got mine at:

http://www.procycle.us/main/fuel_hose.htm

Price was right, but the wall thickness of the hose is kinda thin, so you can't make sharp bends. You can find almost any thickness of hose you want, if you are willing to pay the price here:

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Lastly, I will post my process for filtering and dewatering WVO, which has not failed me yet:
  1. Filter oil to 100 microns with bucket strainer.
  2. Allow to settle, in 55 gal drum, for at least 2 – 3 weeks.
  3. Apply heat for one whole day (10 hours) using a band heater & insulated box with open vent pipe on top 2” bung hole.
  4. Allow to settle for another week.
  5. Heat drum to 125F, (using band heater & insulated box)
  6. Pump 2 gallons from bottom of drum and discard (check to see how much water and particulate matter was in it before discarding)
  7. Pump remaining 53 gallons through gravity filtration apparatus (25 micron cone filter & 1 micron bag filter).
  8. Filtered oil is stored in a clean 55 gal drum. Add biocide before pumping oil into finish drum, if fungus becomes an issue.

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1993 Ford F-250 7.3 IDI diesel 165K (Biodiesel)
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