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  #1  
Old 02-28-2007, 11:48 AM
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Biodiesel/WVO? 1or2 Tank? 83 240D

I am NEW to all this so any help appreciated. Trying to decide which is the best way to go. Biodiesel or WVO? 1 tank or 2 tank? and who sells the best conversion kits? Greenbenz,Fattywagon,etc.? I live in Western North Carolina near Lake Lure and Chimney Rock so it gets pretty cold in fall and winter time. I should be able to get some good WVO from some of the local places.
Any information or comments would be Greatly Aprreciated!
Thanks,
WNCMAN

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Last edited by WNCMAN; 02-28-2007 at 05:56 PM. Reason: Forgot something
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  #2  
Old 02-28-2007, 12:31 PM
Running on pure optimism.
 
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There are SO MANY threads about this on here. Just do a search. If you go with WVO, you absolutely want a 2 tank system. The two that most people seem to go with are either Frybrid or Greasecar. Frybrid is twice as expensive. With Greasecar it is recommended that you get a Vegtherm.
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  #3  
Old 02-28-2007, 01:12 PM
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Having experience with both I would say biodiesel is the way to go. WVO is messy, time consuming, not great for the engine (if not done properly), and has had no real long term tests. Plus you must remember to switch over when the car is warmed up, switch back to purge before you arrive. The system is twice as complex and involves solenoids, heated hoses, two fuel tanks, heat exchangers...I could go on and on...

Biodiesel is easy. Fill 'er up and go.
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  #4  
Old 02-28-2007, 01:32 PM
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Running on biodiesel is easy. Making biodiesel is messy, time consuming, involves hazzardous chemicals and is not great for the engine (if not done properly). I have done both for many years.

If you have a reliable source of WVO and have the time and space to filter it and de-water it, then a good conversion is the way to go. A properly set up settling and filtering system takes far less time than biodiesel processing. It takes me less of my time to dewater and filter enough oil to run 3 cars and heat my house than it takes for me to produce enough biodiesel to run one car.

Cutting corners on either de-watering and filtering of WVO or poor processing of biodiesel can ruin an engine.

2 tank systems are much prefered over 1 tank and handle a wider range of WVO viscosities and ambient temperatures.

Right now, I am running a two tank system but use commercially produced biodiesel for startup and shut down.
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Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980:
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'80 Audi 4000D
'83 ISUZU Pup
'70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel
'76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel
'86 Golf
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  #5  
Old 02-28-2007, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WD8CDH View Post
Running on biodiesel is easy. Making biodiesel is messy, time consuming, involves hazzardous chemicals and is not great for the engine (if not done properly).

That's why I buy it.
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  #6  
Old 02-28-2007, 01:56 PM
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Definitely 2 tank.

I had originally planned on running WVO/SVO but my driving just isn't conducive to warm-up times as well as the time issue. I do plan on running some biodiesel as it becomes more available in my area.

If I thought I had the time, patience and attention to detail I would do some homebrewing. But I don't so I'll just pay for it.
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  #7  
Old 02-28-2007, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WD8CDH View Post
Running on biodiesel is easy. Making biodiesel is messy, time consuming, involves hazzardous chemicals and is not great for the engine (if not done properly). I have done both for many years.

If you have a reliable source of WVO and have the time and space to filter it and de-water it, then a good conversion is the way to go. A properly set up settling and filtering system takes far less time than biodiesel processing. It takes me less of my time to dewater and filter enough oil to run 3 cars and heat my house than it takes for me to produce enough biodiesel to run one car.

Cutting corners on either de-watering and filtering of WVO or poor processing of biodiesel can ruin an engine.

2 tank systems are much prefered over 1 tank and handle a wider range of WVO viscosities and ambient temperatures.

Right now, I am running a two tank system but use commercially produced biodiesel for startup and shut down.
I've done both as well, and I figure to do WVO right it takes as much time as making biodiesel. And switching and purging WVO turned out to be a huge hassle with a 20 mile commute. For longer distances it might save money, but I was going through as much diesel fuel as WVO, but on biodiesel I can do 100% for three seasons out of the year.

Obviously I favor biodiesel, but if you do WVO, please do your car a favor and put in a 2 tank system. And don't forget to thoroughly filter and DEWATER your WVO.
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  #8  
Old 02-28-2007, 02:57 PM
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The commute, I didn't think about that either. It only takes me 10-12 minutes to get work. Now I take 1+ hour drives other places but my daily driving around town is short distances.
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  #9  
Old 02-28-2007, 03:17 PM
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[QUOTE=Old300D;1434495]I've done both as well, and I figure to do WVO right it takes as much time as making biodiesel. And switching and purging WVO turned out to be a huge hassle with a 20 mile commute. [QUOTE]

I also have a 20 minute commute, and don't feel at all hassled by switching or purging. Since I follow the same route every day, I know at exactly which point in my drive to switch over, so it's almost an unconscious action. My purge time is only 30 seconds, so I hit purge on my way into the office parking lot, and by the time I arrive at my parking space, I just turn off the car - again, it is automatic, requiring almost no mental or physical effort.

Collecting and filtering the WVO can be messy, true, but the more I do it, and refine my system, the less messy it is. Dealing with my WVO stuff only takes about an hour of my time each week at most. And for this one hour of time, I can get up to 50 gallons of fuel. At current fuel prices, I'm saving over $100 per hour of my time. Not bad!
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  #10  
Old 02-28-2007, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel Dan
I also have a 20 minute commute, and don't feel at all hassled by switching or purging. Since I follow the same route every day, I know at exactly which point in my drive to switch over, so it's almost an unconscious action. My purge time is only 30 seconds, so I hit purge on my way into the office parking lot, and by the time I arrive at my parking space, I just turn off the car - again, it is automatic, requiring almost no mental or physical effort.

Collecting and filtering the WVO can be messy, true, but the more I do it, and refine my system, the less messy it is. Dealing with my WVO stuff only takes about an hour of my time each week at most. And for this one hour of time, I can get up to 50 gallons of fuel. At current fuel prices, I'm saving over $100 per hour of my time. Not bad!
That's good. When I disassembled my WVO system, I found enough crap inside threatening to clog lines and filters to realize I was not doing enough to process the oil. Even good WVO has water in it, and has the potential to polymerize and create huge headaches. I think the people at Frybrid have the most experience with these systems, and they freely share their oil processing ideas and plans -- properly done, with screening, heating and dewatering, and filtering, you may as well make biodiesel -- it's a better fuel and no purging.
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'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
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http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg
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  #11  
Old 03-01-2007, 11:05 AM
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When using the two tank system with WVO, since most oil will gel below 50 degrees, what do you do when car is sitting overnight or a couple of hours when its really cold? Does the heater heat oil up prior to starting car up?
Thanks for all the help everyone!
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LOOKING FOR MORE!!
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  #12  
Old 03-01-2007, 12:13 PM
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a two tank system starts up on regular diesel or biodiesel. the heat from the engine heats up the veg oil, then you switch over to it.
John

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