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Pros and cons of running homemade biodiesel vs WVO
The first person that says "do a search" dies.
From my all night reading, I'm trying to work up the pros and cons of homemade biodiesel vs wvo. Having not done either personally, I expect to miss some things. Please let me know what, and how it is important. Category - Homemade Biodiesel / WVO Collection - restaurants & chemical supply / restaurants The WVO is gotten the same way for both, but biodiesel requires methanol(drag strip maybe?) and KOH from a chemical supplier... neither of which are free. Processing - settle,filter,dewater,add chemicals,mix,separate / settle,filter,dewater Making biodiesel is time consuming and involves hazzardous chemicals. You must do the same steps as running WVO then add on the conversion process and more separation. "It takes me less of my time to dewater and filter enough oil to run 3 cars and heat my house than it takes for me to produce enough biodiesel to run one car."(WD8CDH) Biodiesel also leaves you with glycerin to dispose of. Is glycerin good for anything? Tanks - stock tank / 2 tanks A second tank is needed for WVO and should be heated. Fuel system - stock / complex Biodiesel will eat a few lines and seals. For B100 new rubber or viton is a must. WVO will introduce solenoids, switches, and duplicate lines and filters increasing complexity and chance of breakage. Operating - stock / monitor then switch Biodiesel runs, for all practical purposes, just like diesel. WVO must be monitored until the proper temperature is reached then may be switched on. It must also be switched off before arrival. I personally rarely drive less than 30+ miles at a time, but short drives can severly limit WVO use. If you screw up - Dead IP / Dead IP, carbon Biodiesel can kill your IP by chemical reaction(pitting) while WVO can kill it by mechanical stress. Cold WVO can also cause carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. It seems to me that WVO is cheaper per gallon, but has a higher install cost. This could be offset by the fact that homemade biodiesel is more time consuming to produce. In the long run WVO should be the cheaper solution.
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I suggest we solve high gas prices with environmentalists... unfortunately they don't burn well. 1982 300CD, 220K miles: This vacuum system will be the death of me yet! (OBK #26) 1977 F150 400 C6 2wd, 10.2 sec 1/8 mile with 2.75 gears. 1965 Mustang. Mostly stock... LOL! 2001 Ram 2500, cummins, 5spd, 202k miles.(girlfriends) Last edited by derherr65; 03-09-2007 at 12:53 PM. |
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Quote:
Viton lines are not a must. Fuel lines that are in good shape (not cracked) are a good idea no matter what fuel you are using. All modern fuel injection line has a "viton like" lining (viton is a brand name)/ Pitting of the IP can be caused by improper dewatering of WVO. Not sure I have heard of biodiesel causing pitting.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#3
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yikes, I wonder how long it's going to take for this thread to reach 9-pager status
![]() I'm a big believer in biodiesel, but there's no doubt that it will deteriorate your fuel lines. It's not a big deal though, just replace them as you find the leaks. Veggie oil introduces lots of problems, extra work, money, retrofitting, etc...I'm not so stoked on veggie oil but I can see why some people are into it.
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-justin 1987 300TD, 1987 300TD 2008 R32, 2000 Passat Wagon |
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I would have said it was a no brainer in favor of WVO, that was before I read up on how my single tank system is ruining my car.... having never made biodiesel, I think you have to collect, dewater and filter the wvo the same way, before making it into Biodiesel as you do before adding it to your tank on a wvo system. So i dont see how it is extra work, unless you factor in all the repairs you are destined to have from coked up injectors and over taxed IP...
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1984 300D Water-Alcohol Injection System, Pyrometer & Boost Gauge running B100 (soon to be homebrewed!!!) |
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Quote:
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I've heard that if you get the mixture off, it will destroy your IP. Too little and you get wet WVO type pitting, to much and you get alcohol washing all the lubricaton away... galling I guess. Does that sound right?
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I suggest we solve high gas prices with environmentalists... unfortunately they don't burn well. 1982 300CD, 220K miles: This vacuum system will be the death of me yet! (OBK #26) 1977 F150 400 C6 2wd, 10.2 sec 1/8 mile with 2.75 gears. 1965 Mustang. Mostly stock... LOL! 2001 Ram 2500, cummins, 5spd, 202k miles.(girlfriends) Last edited by derherr65; 03-09-2007 at 01:55 AM. |
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Sorry I should have quoted....
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1984 300D Water-Alcohol Injection System, Pyrometer & Boost Gauge running B100 (soon to be homebrewed!!!) |
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What happened to all the anti-Lovecraft signs? Just wondering, just got tired of bashing? BTW I'm not a fan of Lovecraft, I'm considering 2 tank system myself, Frybrid, Greasecar or Plantdrive.
Cheers.
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Frankie ![]() It never ends! 1985 300D Turbo 181K Anthracite grey, "SOPHIA" 1984 300 SD Turbo(sold) 2004 Subaru Forester XT,Cayenne red. |
#8
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The big difference between the two is the fact that the glycerin is removed from the oil in Bio. Yes, With Bio, you will have the glycerin to dispose of. WVO runs it through the motor.If the glycerin gets into and builds up in the crankcase......problems.
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81 Mercedes 300SD 289k.......SOLD 82 Mercedes 300CD 252k......slow ride 82 mercedes 300 SD...mi Unknown 83 Mercedes 300D ????ksniff..gone too 84 Mercedes 300D 148k........SOLD 85 Mercedes 300TD 386k and holding some one elses project |
#9
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Great thread, derherr65. I have been reading and researching for many months on this same topic. I have even brewed a few liters of test biodiesel. I am still on the fence though. Reducing the hazardous chemicals is probably the biggest driver for me (being a family man). WVO is looking more appealing.
.....Dan |
#10
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I have been running WVO for almost a year now. For me it was an easy choice. I experimented with several batches of Bio with some trouble. The way I look at it is that you need to invest some time and money upfront for WVO. The pay off is less work later on, less issues dealing with nasty chemicals, sourcing methanol and glycerin disposal.
Even WVO still has a fair amount of work associated with it. Its kind of like burning wood for home heat. You have to be willing to put the time in and not mind doing the work. |
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A big thing with WVO is to evaluate your car and determine how long you want it to run. The rings will start to go bad at some point in time with these motors. When this happens, fuel that is left on the cylinder walls will find itself in the crankcase, whether it is bio,dino,or WVO. If that fuel is WVO, it contains glycerin that will attack bearing etc. I plan on keeping my car for far more than another 100k so WVO is not an option for me.
If I had a rusted up beater that only had another yr or 2 left in the body, that would be a different story.
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81 Mercedes 300SD 289k.......SOLD 82 Mercedes 300CD 252k......slow ride 82 mercedes 300 SD...mi Unknown 83 Mercedes 300D ????ksniff..gone too 84 Mercedes 300D 148k........SOLD 85 Mercedes 300TD 386k and holding some one elses project |
#12
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buy your bio at the pump and pay your taxes....
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1987 300D Sturmmachine 1991 300D Nearly Perfect 1994 E320 Cabriolet 1995 E320 Touring 2001 Eurovan FOR SALE 1985 300D car, sold and missed. OBK #42 |
#13
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The lesser known of the WVO is polymerization and combustion problems which can lead to deposits in the lands of the rings. Of course there's coking and deposit problems at the injector and IP points as well being the most documented. I have yet to see a piston and rings from a long term WVO powered diesel.
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1982 300TD 210K miles ("The Replacement" aka "The Anvil") - SOLD 1979 300SD 245K miles (never ending project) 2007 Pinarello F3:13 1995 Ducati 916 (SOLD, sniff) 1999 Ducati 900SSie (SOLD) |
#14
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![]() People talk about using the glycerin by-product from BD for soap or candles, but do you want to use soap or candles that have methanol in them? ![]() Look at my signature. I like what I'm doing, but living in Florida helps it work for me. By not doing a bunch of conversions to the vehicle I have less to go wrong. Read the Frybrid forum and you will always see people chasing air leaks or other component problems. I choose not to go the BD route because I don't want to deal with procuring and using the chemicals required, and I don't want to put a lot on $$$ into a processor. If my supply of WVO dries up tomorrow, I'm only stuck with a couple hundred dollars of filetering supplies.
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Pictures of the MB: http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/EricandRobyn/1981%20Mercedes/ 1981 300 SD with a Goldenrod water block and Injetor line heaters. EGR is missing ![]() 1999 F-350 with HP X-over, Dahl 100 Fuel Filter, Coolant by-pass filter, CCV mod, Tymar intake. Both on single tank WVO blend ![]() |
#15
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JackG has a very good point. That is what I've been doing, buying a beater, driving it on WVO and then parting it. My first 300SD I drove 30K miles. about 25 of those were on BD and WVO/RUG. Had injector nailing a couple times, but it cleared up all by itself. Love these self-healing Benz's.
I would like to think that if I burned WVO in the summer and then switched over to diesel in the winter, that the WVO fuel use woulf clean the deposits from the dino fuel use and the dino fuel use would clean what the WVO left off. Would be nice wouldn't it. Either way, BD or heated WVO you're gonna invest several hundred EXTRA dollars in parts. Either a processor and it's pumps, titration equipment, safety equipment,,,, or in a 2-tank system - a second tank (maybe) plumbing, Hose in a hose, switches, pump/valve,,, Simply using WVO/RUG the only investment you need is a sock filter and a couple of buckets. See my ebay guide on WVO and diesels: and PLEASE check the yes button. Thanks
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Closing the store Benzbonz.biz on your smart phone or tablet. |
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