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  #16  
Old 03-15-2007, 12:31 PM
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Location: Denver, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
I have not converted my car personally, but I do remember seeing a grease car kit being disassembled on the Frybrid site. The pics they took of the copper tubing looked like a big green slime stick.
Well, that may have been because of copper, but I think it also has to do with the quality of WVO you get. Mine is some of the best, just liquid soy fryer oil that titrates to 1-2 KOH. Some of that diner stuff gets REALLY nasty with FFA, and that will probably corrode copper. Not to mention suspended water giving those ions motion....

So all I'm saying is, copper is probably ok IF you have good oil.

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  #17  
Old 03-15-2007, 12:34 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old300D View Post
Well, that may have been because of copper, but I think it also has to do with the quality of WVO you get. Mine is some of the best, just liquid soy fryer oil that titrates to 1-2 KOH. Some of that diner stuff gets REALLY nasty with FFA, and that will probably corrode copper. Not to mention suspended water giving those ions motion....

So all I'm saying is, copper is probably ok IF you have good oil.
Sounds reasonable, and correct. Since some people who do the WVO seem to be not really careful about thier oil, I think they would be better served sticking with aluminum or SS. You OTOH know what you are doing.
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  #18  
Old 03-15-2007, 01:21 PM
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Mersoydes 300SDL
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Trenton, NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old300D View Post
Well, that may have been because of copper, but I think it also has to do with the quality of WVO you get. Mine is some of the best, just liquid soy fryer oil that titrates to 1-2 KOH. Some of that diner stuff gets REALLY nasty with FFA, and that will probably corrode copper. Not to mention suspended water giving those ions motion....

So all I'm saying is, copper is probably ok IF you have good oil.
Lets not forget about algae. I recall seeing those frybrid pics too and I think it was determined that algae was the culprit.
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  #19  
Old 03-15-2007, 01:36 PM
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They posted a report on Frybrid's forums about how veggie oil polymerizes in a bunch of different environments. One of the conclusions is that copper in contact with VO leads more quickly to polymerization than SS, with aluminum being the least reactive. Heat is also a factor. I dunno, haven't done any experiments myself, just re-stating what's in that report. If you're having good luck, keep doing whatever you're doing.

Here's the thread with the report, and you can read all the different arguments people have interpreting it:
http://www.frybrid.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6510
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  #20  
Old 03-15-2007, 10:47 PM
henrydupont
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
Anything contacting veggie oil, metal wise, needs to be aluminum or stainless steel.
anything, such as the injector lines and injectors? precombustionchambers?
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  #21  
Old 03-16-2007, 08:03 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
The trans cooler in the radiator is supposed to cool the hotter tranny fluid. It's kind of a joke because you are using hot coolant to cool hot tranny fluid.
Actually a tranny works best if the tranny fluid is above 150 degrees but not too hot so the hot coolant speeds up the heating of the tranny fluid and still prevents it from getting too hot.
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'85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
'83 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980:
'83 Mercedes 240D
'80 Audi 4000D
'83 ISUZU Pup
'70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel
'76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel
'86 Golf
Several diesel generators
All with 2 tank WVO conversion
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  #22  
Old 03-16-2007, 08:14 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: new bedford Massachusetts
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I use hose in hose on the supply and return.

Aluminum refrigeration tubing 5/16 cheap ($20 /50 feet) at the local hvac supply.

I loop my return at the tank so the oil gets heated in two directions and then a final blast of heat from a small heat exchanger before the injection pump.

No problem getting to 160 degrees.

The key for my setup is the looped return at the tank giving 24 feet of hose in hose loop to heat the oil.

Steve

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