I've never done that, I brew it I want to use it. So I wash. But it is said it can take a month, maybe longer.

__________________
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg

Just want to add my thoughts on the grease kit. The eBay appears to be an auction for a slightly fancy glow plug heater. Looks nicely constructed, but a "conversion kit" it is not. It might be a needed adjunct to a greasecar kit.

I've run two GC kits now, and with both of them, I have indeed found the heat transfer to be inadequate, requiring a gizmo like these. However, I have one had bad experience with a failing thermostat on a glow plug heater, which nearly caused a fire under my hood. Glow plugs are designed to get much hotter than you need for running veg oil, so that's a lot of faith to put in a button thermostat!

If you go with a GC kit and live in a cold climate, I would definitely recommend adding auxiliary heat. eg: a Vegtherm (from Plantdrive.com) or a flat plate heat exchanger (omarsales.com). I recently added the latter to my MB and am really impressed, and it needs no wires. Cost is around $80. It works really well and heats up fast.

If you hunt around on eBay, sometimes you can luck out and find a gently used GC kit. I did this and it was about $400 and in decent shape. I went with an installer, mainly because I don't have the time.

I've a noob to the MB world but have been running veg oil for about 15 months now. Lots of DIY and "OMG why am I doing this?" nervous moments, but it is really a lot of fun in the long run. Makes for great dinner table conversation with curious relatives.

Good luck!

Chuck

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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1982 300D, anthracite grey, 260k miles, Greasecar
1999 E300D, black, 160k miles, Greasecar
2010 Honda Insight Hybrid
http://www.chuckwyatt.com
http://www.wordimpressive.com

I would definitely stay away from glow plug electric heaters. They will cook your oil and plug your filters with crap, a result of polymerization.

__________________
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg

Yeah, that's the other thing... they tend to throw off burned bits of carbonized junk. So you have to throw in another little bitty filter to protect your IP. It's a PITA and not worth the hassle. Simpler is better so I vote for FPHE.

__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1982 300D, anthracite grey, 260k miles, Greasecar
1999 E300D, black, 160k miles, Greasecar
2010 Honda Insight Hybrid
http://www.chuckwyatt.com
http://www.wordimpressive.com

I have to add something to this. The GP heater that is talked about ....1) has a light in the interior on/off switch to let you know if the GP's are on. 2) are not a "contact GP" set up. The two GP heat the aluminum block and the two , fuel and water loops in the block. But to be sure, I put a filter after the GP heater and the IP. The gunk, came from the tank with WVO in it.

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1985 300D burning WVO using 26 FPHE, half gallon heated fuel filter,glow plug heater,home made injection line heaters. Home made cold air induction. ALDA full out.
2003 F350 7.3(the last of the great motors)
1987 Paint Horse-non running too, just walks!

If u plan on using 100% WVO, u r wasting ur money.

Using 100% WVO will ruin ur engine seals and rubber components over time. The coefficient of expansion for, say rubber, is different for different fluids. The car rubber tolerence is for diesel. WVO has a different coefficient of expansion.

That is why cars that run on 100% WVO start having problems a couple of years down the road.

U may be better off running 70% diesel and 30% WVO in ur car. For that u do not need a conversion kit and avoid the rubber issues.

I have filtered in WVO directly into the gas tank.

I have been experimenting with this for the last 3 years.

I do not gurantee any results. Try at ur own risk.

Here in Phoenix, we can get Biodiesel for $3.00 per gallon so it doesn't seem to be a good use of my time to collect used veggie oil. Sometimes I do because this is the desert and it's not only hot enough to melt a tourist into the pavement like a piece of cheese, but veggie oil burns great in this heat! 115* in the shade!

There are not enough details listed to warrant the expense, and if it is only what is shown in the picutere, I would not call that a kit, but a part of a kit.

It looks kind of small to be a liquid heat exchanger. It does have two glowplugs installed in it, so there is some electric heat for sure, but it that it? and is there a switching valve in it also? Idunno.

More info needed to make a decision.

Mark

__________________
1983 300CD 245K
Running WVO blends

Vegetable oil does not ruin rubber seals, biodiesel does. Vegetable oil is, well, vegetable oil, but Biodiesel contains powerful solvents such as methenol, and lye, Ive been using wvo and reading a-lot If you have evidence to back up the claim that WVO ruins rubber seals, please post it.

Mark

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1983 300CD 245K
Running WVO blends

I agree that vegetable oil is fairly beneign and doesn't affect fuel lines much. But biodiesel has NO METHANOL OR LYE in it. Period. Biodiesel is NON-TOXIC and is pure methyl esters. All the extra methanol and lye are not present in good fuel, and yet biodiesel will still dissolve old fuel line. It's an excellent solvent, that's it.

__________________
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg

Old300, where do you get your oil? I wantto make my own BoiD vs buying it. I currently pay $2.00 per gallon, but I have to drive 50 miles rount trip to get it.

Thanks!

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

What's the cost for methanol? And is anyone here recovering it from the leftovers? I'm wondering how much you can recover.

I have 2 restaurants in a local strip mall I collect from once a week (for free, don't pay for used oil). A Chinese place and a Thai place, and they both treat their oil well. It consistently titrates less than 2 ml/l of KOH.

__________________
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg

Methanol has gone up and stayed. Last year I was getting it for $2.25 a gallon, and now you will be challenged to get it for less than $3.25 a gallon. Although I do no recovery, I plan on it and am trying to learn about it. Others report you can typically get about 30% recovery at 98% purity with a simple column.

__________________
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg

This thread is interesting...certainly some good info and misinfo

It breaks down like this :

Bio-diesel is more expensive to produce, but requires very little upfront costs.

Waste Veg oil is very inexpensive to produce, but requires initial investment to convert the vehicle.

With fuel prices where they are, you can break even on a wvo conversion within 20k miles, then save big bucks everyday thereafter. Or save less but right away on bio-d.

Either one is better than OPECs alternative.

__________________
Paul
Benz-less
I need an SDL !