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  #31  
Old 05-16-2007, 10:37 PM
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Here's another link for Poly tank systems....used to be Geasel Conversions.

http://www.goldenfuelsystems.com/




.

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  #32  
Old 05-16-2007, 10:39 PM
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Location: Houston, TX
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I'm with a2t a little bit on this one. I'm not making my own biodiesel, but I can buy ASTM-grade B99 for less than D2 costs at a commercial pump. In the meantime, I'm planning my WVO conversion, so that I'll be getting the best of both worlds -- free fuel in the second tank, and top-notch biofuel in the factory startup/shutdown tank.

Cheers, John
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  #33  
Old 05-16-2007, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
This thread is interesting...certainly some good info and misinfo

It breaks down like this :

Bio-diesel is more expensive to produce, but requires very little upfront costs.

Waste Veg oil is very inexpensive to produce, but requires initial investment to convert the vehicle.

With fuel prices where they are, you can break even on a wvo conversion within 20k miles, then save big bucks everyday thereafter. Or save less but right away on bio-d.

Either one is better than OPECs alternative.
This is just my opinion and others milage may vary, but for me making biodiesel is the way to go, as it is relatively easy to do, and until I get past the "experimenting" stage, my car will still function properly. That is important, as I need it to to get to work and such everyday (don't have money to have extra "project" cars lying around).

I can totally understand the attraction of SVO, but personally, I can't afford to have my car out of commission while I try to figure out how the air is getting in the fuel lines, why my fuel isn't returning correctly, etc. It seems that everyone who does a conversion has at least some initial kinks to work out.

Also, with the amount I would need to spend on the kit, it will take a lot of biodiesel brewing expense before I catch up with that, and that expense is paid only a little at a time which is good for someone like me, who can't afford another $1k at the moment! I roughly calculated it would take about 15,000-20,000 miles worth of driving before I paid $1000 for my biodiesel and equipment to make it (which is about the cost of some of the conversion kits). That is assuming 20miles/gal and $1 per gallon of bio, which are both pesimistic estimates.

One last advantage in my eyes is, if the car dies or if I decide to get a different one, or another for the lady, I have everything I need right away to put fuel in the new one without another removal/install, etc.

This is with all arguments aside about the possible dangers of running WVO/SVO (which I am yet to be really convinced about when assuming a good heated vegie oil system).
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  #34  
Old 05-18-2007, 10:30 PM
a2t a2t is offline
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Agreed. My frybrid veg oil install prob cost me about $2500 all told and took me a solid month of screwing with it to get it working. Yes, air in lines was a problem initially, as were coolant leaks. Im also not fond of adding 150 hose clamps or whatever it is. All that extra coolant line wont last forever.

For me to pay back the entire investment will take 20k miles at current fuel prices (6k down, 14k more to go!). I should slap a taxi light on top and cruise the bar district on fri/sat night to pay back quicker.

Im really not worried about longevity of the engine running the WVO. You should hear it running on diesel vs WVO. You almost dont know the engine is even running, its soo much smoother and quieter.

Both solutions allow you to extend middle finger while driving past exxon station (a daily ritual ).

And that alone makes either choice worthy.
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  #35  
Old 05-19-2007, 07:09 AM
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All told, my kit and the install cost me less than $1000.

I thought a lot about making biodiesel instead -- and for me the tradeoffs went like this: 1) With BioD, I don't have to modify my car. Yay! 2) With BioD, I have to deal with methanol and lye swirling around in my basement in a water heater. Boo!
1) With WVO I have to worry about cold veggie coking up my engine. Boo!
2) WVO only takes filtering and is not explosive or poisonous. Yay!

So that's why I went with WVO. The biggest danger is making a holy mess in the basement (no garage), but with the proximity to the living space, I figure I made the right choice for me.

There are other issues like BioD isn't so useable in the winter without going with 80% petrol. But that said, I use more diesel in the winter running WVO as well, just because it takes longer to get the car up to temp.

But a2t is right either alternative is GOOD -- there are very few people with commutes who have the distinct honor and privilege of flipping the bird at the oil demons. Ok, I have to go back groveling maybe once every 3 or 4 weeks now.

-Chuck
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  #36  
Old 05-25-2007, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cewyattjr View Post
...

There are other issues like BioD isn't so useable in the winter without going with 80% petrol. But that said, I use more diesel in the winter running WVO as well, just because it takes longer to get the car up to temp.

But a2t is right either alternative is GOOD -- there are very few people with commutes who have the distinct honor and privilege of flipping the bird at the oil demons. Ok, I have to go back groveling maybe once every 3 or 4 weeks now.

-Chuck
I run B50 in the winter to -10F. Good soy feedstock makes clear biodiesel to 32F. Three seasons of B100 and 1 season of B50 makes for lots of "bird-flipping"

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