I guess the $3.25+/gal for my gassers are forcing me to really consider doing the 'naughty' thing - burn the filtered peanut oil.

What do I need to do to get my powerplant ready to burn it? Can it be ran straight through the tank WITHOUT doing damage to anything? I know that I must filter the WVO to 5 micron or better in order to flow through the fuel system.

I have acquired two nice 30 gal poly barrels to store the oil in so I'm just looking for other information on what else I need to be thinking of. I know there is a real debate over doing this but I have already decided that I will do it provided the risk is minimal that damage will be done. I'm not interested in a 'kit' with the heat exchanger and all that since I do not drive the car in the winter months (at least while the roads are salty). Any thoughts are welcome...Thanks

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Dale

one tank systems suck.. go two tank... search function... mooo

ok i was bored

But on a serious note.. If you want to burn the bean especially in Ohio your going to want to run a two tank system like one from greasecar.com or greaseworks.com. Dont think about one of those one tank systems from lovecraft because they are cheap. A two tank system is superior because it does not allow your Injection Pump to suck cold veggie which can harm the internals. A two tank system allows the veggie tank to heat up so the veggie is thin enough to burn easier as well as switching to diesel before you shut down so that the system is set up to start with no issues on the next start up..

Filtering is key as well as dewatering. Seeing as your going to do veggie you want to filter down to 2 microns or better. Water free is also key.Water in fuel is bad and can corode IP internals

Running cold VO will also coke up your fuel injectors. I agree, you should consider a two-tank kit. I would do some serious research into filtering techniqe and the advantages and disadvantages of the various kits.

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1987 Mercedes 300D ~200K (Greasecar & Biodiesel)
1993 Ford F-250 7.3 IDI diesel 165K (Biodiesel)
1996 Thomas/International Bus with DT466 engine

The opinions are legion and I've been on both extremes as well. Notice that there are tons of threads under this forum all listed above. Tons of valuable advice.

If you're doing the 'just filter it and chuck it in the tank', it can work....for awhile. But have a phillips and spare pre-filter in the glove box. As for longevity, I'd trust the opinion of the pros. Problem is that there are pros on both sides of the fence.

Once you collect, spill, filter, buy a transfer pump, spill again, collect, spill in your trunk, get stranded, etc, its often not as glamorous as it appears at first appears.

dd

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DAILY DRIVERS:
'84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's)
'99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's)
'97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's)
'97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's)
'96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's
'84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion)

SOLD:
'82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed

TheDon and Dan

Ok, both you guys missed what I said -
I DO NOT WANT TO DO A 'KIT'!

No, but seriously. What happens if I only use WVO in the warmer months of the year like May - Sept/Oct and run a mix of say 70/30 (VO/diesel)? Will this not work?

I'm just trying to learn!

__________________
Dale

I had a heck of mess to clean after I was done doing my WVO operation. The garage floor where I kept my filtering and storing was a gooey disaster. This was with trying to put down all kinds of plastic and cardboard as a precaution.

__________________
DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012

Here is a forum dedicated to this http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/frm/f/9751014871

__________________
1999 E300DT (131,800) 154,000 Black on Black SOLD

2006 CLK 500 coupe Capri Blue on Grey (zoom,zoom)
47,000mi

04 VW TDI Passat 80,000mi
(Techno)

How to eliminate oil dependency through market-driven approaches.
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Sure , it'll work for a while, until your rings and injectors coke up . Unless you can guarantee that the oil /diesel blend will enter the injector at 160f or higher then your only playing with time until you run into problems. Serious engine problems that you will have to rebuild your motor. Roll the dice and see what happens.
I just finished my 2 tank conversion, and the oil going into the injectors is 185f or higher, if I switch over too soon ,I can hear the difference in the way the motor sounds. This is a system that I designed and built myself, its a system I can trust not to do damage to my car.

__________________
'83 240D 264k on 100% biodiesel/ 31mpg
83 300D 217K the $800 gem
'82 300D 267K the new WVO project car finished and driving for free
International tractor B275 on B100
Ford 555 backhoe on B100
Sargent 25 ton Rough Terrain crane on B50

Straight #2 diesel or B20 Biodiesel will work best.

Only if you want to destroy your engine.

There are two hard and fast rules for successful use of VO as a fuel.
1- The engine has to be hot BEFORE the VO gets there.
2- The oil has to be hot BEFORE it gets to the IP.

These rules assume that the oil is dry and filtered before it ever gets near your car.

-Jim

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1995 S350D, Green with black leather interior.
Bought January 2008 w/ 233,xxx miles.
I did 22,000 miles during the first year of ownership.

Would you care to share your install (including pics) for us newbies?

OK Assuming that the oil is dry and filtered, isn't the real issue the viscosity (hence the reason you need to heat it)? If you can "cut it" with kerosene, mix it with diesel or anything else that might work to thin it out, shouldn't that be OK as well?

sure , had wanted to send in some pics. just need to learn how to put up the pics. I'll check into photo bucket. Check back later tonight , I should have it up.

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'83 240D 264k on 100% biodiesel/ 31mpg
83 300D 217K the $800 gem
'82 300D 267K the new WVO project car finished and driving for free
International tractor B275 on B100
Ford 555 backhoe on B100
Sargent 25 ton Rough Terrain crane on B50

Could possibly work, but at what temp does this blend coke up the injectors or rings? If at all, who wants to be the guinea pig. My point is that a 2 tank setup with enough heat will cause no damage to your car,. Its a proven system, no experimenting required, chance of damage is reduced or minimal.
A 2 tank system is good if you drive a good distance, not good for around town driving, unless you leave it running all the time. I drive 50 miles to work everyday for a total of 100 miles/ day, about 600/ week. System works better than can be expected. Only cost $600 to build with components bought from Ebay.

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'83 240D 264k on 100% biodiesel/ 31mpg
83 300D 217K the $800 gem
'82 300D 267K the new WVO project car finished and driving for free
International tractor B275 on B100
Ford 555 backhoe on B100
Sargent 25 ton Rough Terrain crane on B50

There are two ways to get the WVO to the same viscosity as diesel fuel.
1-You can heat the oil to 160deg
2-You can blend
Both work equally as good.

The single most important thing in my opinion is to get a good source/s. I get my oil from a Thai restaurant and a Sushi restaurant and they both filter without much mess. DO NOT go anyplace where they fry meats.

I have been blending and running WVO for over a year now on a one tank system. The only problems I have ever had were fungus. Since I started using biocide in every batch that problem has gone away.

DO NOT blend with diesel fuel. You will never get it to the viscosity you need. Use RUG or Kerosene.

Gotta go, I'm on my way to get 15 gallons of free fuel.

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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