I've been doing a bit of reading on B100 and I'd like to use it on my 300SD (W116, 1980).

I was wondering if anyone has experience w/ B100 with a W116 300SD? I am well aware that I ought to keep additional fuel filters on hand, as they will likely need replacing after B100 is introduced to the system. But what about the fuel lines? Which (if any) ought to be replaced, and from where?

There is a station locally (Los Angeles, CA) that apparently sells B100 and it would be fairly convenient to use, but I don't want to risk the reliability of my daily driver!

I haven't looked into it with my own 300d as yet, but I am assuming that apart from the fuel lines... you may need to change out the rubber in your fuel pump as well. These are 'things I hear'. I dunno.

Someone with detailed info should be along shortly to comment....

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OBK #32
1985 300D Turbo (15 gal Greasecar kit installed)
(258,900+mi.) Thanks- Tachometer Fixed. Middle Vents Fixed. Transmission- 1000% better shifting.
Vac leaks- Fixed, Brakes replaced, Steering Box replaced, .... Information Rules.

Plenty of folks start running it, and then just replace hose/lines/seals as they go bad. Yours is definitely older, and the rubber bits may not be in the best shape anyway after 25-30 years of use. You'll definitely go through a filter or two pretty quickly as the B100 dissolves diesel sludge out of your tank and lines. How much and how fast other things will be affected by the fuel is hard to guess.

Maybe you're smart to consider doing the changes ahead of schedule. On the other hand, run a tankful or two and see how much your engine likes it before you spend a lot of money and time retrofitting the car to handle it.

My W210 runs great on the stuff. I've replaced only fuel filters (spin-on only on my car) and the fuel return lines -- so far everything else is holding up without known leaks.

Cheers, John

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'98 E300TD (W210) | Sold 6/09 with 205k and counting
'04 VW Touareg V10TDI

I have been using it in my 79 300SD 116 pictured below for about 2 years. About 15,000 miles with no issues.

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1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12
1982 380SL
1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing
1987 300 D
2005 CDI European Delivery
2006 CDI Handed down to daughter
2007 GL CDI. Wifes

When you made the transition, did you start, as was mentioned above, with B20 and move up to B100? About how many fuel prefilters do you think you went through before things were normal?

How many different grades of biodiesel are there and what are the differences? I am new to this and am looking to start using biodiesel in my 79 300TD wagon. What should i use? Thanks-Daniel

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PUT THE PEDAL TO THE METAL!


1979 300TD wagon(Soon to have grease tank!)

You can get blends of biodiesel starting at B5 (5% biodiesel, 95% perto diesel) and going all the way up to B99. The most common blends are B5, B20, B50, and B99. There isn't really any benefit to starting a low blend and working your way up. All of the buildup is going to break loose at some point. It may take longer if you run low blend, but it still all ends up in your fuel filters. I have 20,000 miles on biodiesel with no problems. I started running B99 as soon as I got my first MB diesel. It runs smoother, quieter, and smells better.

The only things you need to worry about changing are the fuel lines. There are a few different opinions on fuel lines. Viton is biodiesel resistant and will last longer than good quality fuel line. Although, Viton is more expensive, so you weigh the options. If you put cheap fuel lines on they will not last very long with biodiesel use. The injector return lines are usually the first ones to go, mostly because they are right next to the engine and deal with all the heat. Grease Works sells viton hose kits. They inclued directions, all the hoses you'll need, and new band style hose clamps. How long the fuel lines last when you start running biodiesel depends on the shape of the lines when you start biodiesel use. Some people can get away without changing lines for quite a long time, some have problems right away.

Like the fuel lines, the number of fuel filter you'll go through depends on how much gunk is built up in the fuel system. I would say anywhere from 2-4 filters is a good range. Make sure you have a few on hand when you start running biodiesel. I like the clear primary filters becuase you can see exactly when the filter is getting clogged.

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Honestly? I had no issues running B100 in my 85 300D, so when I bought the 79 300SD I just started running B 100 right away. I still have the same filters on it. I do carry spares in the trunk, but knock on wood i haven't needed them. I think the concerns are a bit overrated. These are very low technology diesels and are very tolerant. After 3 years of running in my 85 300D, I had to replace 1 5 inch piece of injector return line that started to seep.

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1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12
1982 380SL
1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing
1987 300 D
2005 CDI European Delivery
2006 CDI Handed down to daughter
2007 GL CDI. Wifes

Very interesting. When you speak of fuel filter replacements, do you keep both the pre-filter (the plastic one) and the canister filter on hand and change both of them when the pre-filter begins to look clogged? Or is just swapping out the pre-filter enough?

Thanks to all for the helpful advice thus far!

I would carry both. In my 240 I put one tank of B50 in and about 100 miles later I had no power. I changed the clear primary filter and it helped for a little while, but about 15 miles later, had no power again. I then changed the spin on filter and all was well. In my wagon on the other hand I had very few clogging issues. So it's kind of a crap shoot. I would carry two primary filter and one spin on and you should be ready for anything they biodiesel can through at you.

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