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  #16  
Old 01-26-2008, 04:25 PM
tami's Avatar
who should be out sailing
 
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we've seen Powerpig's setup

we've seen Powerpig's setup (hey there! coming to the Coast anytime soon?)

and engineer husband thought well of it. As for me, I was impressed with the quality and tidiness of the installation.

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  #17  
Old 01-27-2008, 12:24 AM
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why not the polluck valve, what should i use

Well im a very do it yourself and was about to order everything and then came across this forum, so far way better than anything else ive came across. Anyways what solenoid valve should i use?
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  #18  
Old 01-27-2008, 12:32 AM
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why not the polluck valve, what should i use

Well im a very do it yourself and was about to order everything and then came across this forum, so far way better than anything else ive came across. Anyways what solenoid valve should i use?
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  #19  
Old 01-27-2008, 12:58 AM
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Check out www.plantdrive.com . Been using the same pollack valve for 4 yrs now.
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  #20  
Old 01-27-2008, 04:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaoneill View Post
I put together a two tank system and have driven a little over 40K miles on wvo with no real issues.
That has to be a new record here. I have asked before how long these
things will go and have been looking for someone, anyone, who may have
topped 100k with a conversion. I always get the same responses, 10-15k
but 40k.......can anyone top this?
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84 Mercedes 300D 148k........SOLD
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  #21  
Old 01-27-2008, 04:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suburbanviking View Post
HIH - hose in hose
HOH - hose on hose
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  #22  
Old 01-27-2008, 04:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackG View Post
That has to be a new record here. I have asked before how long these
things will go and have been looking for someone, anyone, who may have
topped 100k with a conversion. I always get the same responses, 10-15k
but 40k.......can anyone top this?
Check with BrianMiller over at the Greasecar.com forums... he's got over 150K miles on WVO on his truck.
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  #23  
Old 01-27-2008, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thesst View Post
Check with BrianMiller over at the Greasecar.com forums... he's got over 150K miles on WVO on his truck.
Thanks, Was this done all on the same motor/injection system
without any major problems arising?
Does anyone you know have 100k on a MB motor
without major problems?
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81 Mercedes 300SD 289k.......SOLD
82 Mercedes 300CD 252k......slow ride

82 mercedes 300 SD...mi Unknown
83 Mercedes 300D ????ksniff..gone too
84 Mercedes 300D 148k........SOLD
85 Mercedes 300TD 386k and holding some one elses project
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  #24  
Old 01-27-2008, 06:56 AM
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I have a GC kit on my 98. You will definitely need extra heat in your climate. I live in coastal Virginia and our normal lows are around 25-30*f. I only get temps of 100-115*f and thats with a vegtherm. I have bought a FPHE that I am installing next week. That should give me temps of 150+. I suggest you do the same.
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  #25  
Old 01-27-2008, 07:19 AM
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I have a home made setup consisting of: 2nd tank w/ coolant heater,HIH , electric heated veg filter, & vegatherm. The problem with the vegatherm is it adds too much heat and needs to be regulated w/ a feedback loop/switch. I was getting temps near 300F just before the IP. I have just added a FPHE which now gives more even temps(160-200) w/o having to be monitored. It also helps get the temp up faster before switching over. I am located just outside the Boston.
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  #26  
Old 01-27-2008, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muleears View Post
I have a GC kit on my 98. You will definitely need extra heat in your climate. I live in coastal Virginia and our normal lows are around 25-30*f. I only get temps of 100-115*f and thats with a vegtherm. I have bought a FPHE that I am installing next week. That should give me temps of 150+. I suggest you do the same.
Try installing some injector line heaters. They get up to something like 250F, and its after the IP so you don't have to worry about the heat in the IP.
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  #27  
Old 01-27-2008, 09:18 PM
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Wvo

If you have the time to wait get a Frybrid system . In the CO climate you will need the heat.

DO NOT use pollacks valves if you DIY. Pollacks valves were never engineered/designed to operate in the near boiling oil temps you need. Every WVOer I know has had their pollacks fail at one point or another. Just because 1 out of 50 last is not a good track record. Pick up a Hydraforce or Greasecar valve.

We have serveral WVOers here with MBs well over 50K on Veggie. My 300SD has already 30K on WVO
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  #28  
Old 01-28-2008, 12:02 AM
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Location: Norman, OKlahoma Boomer Sooner Baby
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how much to do it yourself

So i was looking at greasecar's website, and 995 for a complete system seems like a great deal. From what i've priced so far im at half the cost of the system what is everyones oppinion. Go with a kit or DIY? When greasecar says it has a heated fuel line, how do they do it? Is it HIH or HOH or something else.




So far i've priced a pollock valve ($90) heater hose ($50) i was thinking i'd use metal fuel lines (30) my buddies dad said he could weld a tank for $200, not including the material to make the radiator inside the tank (im guessing $30) fuel level sender with gauge (25) Dont know how much the heated filters and such are, but that's like $400+, and since i've never done it before so i figure there are some problems and mistakes that will cost extra.
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  #29  
Old 01-28-2008, 12:03 AM
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Much simpler WVO question,

HOW MUCH HAVE YALL PAID FOR YOUR WVO CONVERSIONS?
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  #30  
Old 01-28-2008, 12:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marybeth View Post
Pick up a Hydraforce or Greasecar valve.
I'd go with the Greasecar valve. I've seen the Hyraforce valve leak fuel through the normal closed port when it's supposed to be closed. Which on a return valve will put diesel into your veg tank, which isn't a route you want to go down. You'll drain you diesel tank and overflow your veg tank.

I paid $1600 for my setup, that covered the valves, veg filter and housing, vegtherm, aux, pump, hoses, hose insulation, clamps, brass fittings, electrical wire, heat shrink, various nuts and bolts, relays, and a job box for all my relays and wiring. You can do it cheaper, but why spend money on cheap parts that aren't going to last. I got my parts from Grease Works, Grease Car, Plant Drive, and my local hardware stores. I did it all myself as well.

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