I am thinking of using a fattywagon or a greaseking filter on my wvo system. Anyone have any noticable differences/experiences between the two?
Thanks

85 300d 191k

There's a four page thread on the frybrid forum discussing the grease kings filter here. It looks like a decent filter. And the fattywagons filter (I assume you're not talking about the electric one) is pretty expensive and they don't show you what kind of centrifugal filter/water separator is in it. But it probably has a coiled aluminum tubing in it like the grease kings filter does. That's not the best for heat exchange...the coolant may flow through the tubing and not give up all the heat that it possibly can.

On the other hand, frybrids filter is cheaper than both of them and uses a flat place heat exchanger on top of a VW fuel filter. I think the flat plate exchangers are more effective than the coiled tubing method. I have first hand experience with this one and it works very well.

If you were to compare all three, I don't know if one is leaps and bounds better than the others, they all probably do a pretty good job of warming the oil enough to let if flow through the filter.

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1985 300TD-euro 352,000 mi
1974 240D (1?)52,000 mi - has a new home now

What about filter duration with the type you use? I currently use a VW Dasher filter with a coiled heater hose. It gets hot but life expectancy has been only 1500 miles. I was looking at the Fatty or King for the increase filter size.

Sounds like your filter should do fine.

The frybrid filter uses a VW fuel filter. Its a WIX 33358, well, that's the one I use, there's a Bosch equivalent and a few other WIX filters that go less than 10 microns (the 33358 is supposed to be a 10 um filter). I don't know how that compares to the filtering area on the fattywagon or grease king filter, but mine has been adequate.

Anyway, I've gone a few thousand miles one some filters. Less on others. If you filter your oil to 10 microns or less (at home) you should be able to go for a very long time between filter changes.

Do you have any polymerization in your tank or happening somewhere after your home filtering? That'll plug filters really quickly.

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1985 300TD-euro 352,000 mi
1974 240D (1?)52,000 mi - has a new home now

I make frybrid type units, and use several different sized fleetguard filters, one slightly larger than the mbz filter, up to a 2 qt unit. all 10 micron.

they work great, and if you can score a used oil cooler, they can be made for as little as $25, depending on what you pay for parts. I get a 3/4-16 threaded head from summit racing, and use the original vw filter threaded tube.

I have only switched over to this filter in the last couple months, but my first filter I had 4500 on when I changed it because I was already in there doing other work- no signs of clogging. it all depends on your home filtering. I go thru 2 5 mic household filters, then the big 2 qt fleetguard, then a 1 mic absolute sock. then the car.

if your interested in a complete unit, let me know.

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

IF you are only getting 1500 miles from your fuel-filter, then your Fuel is still cruddy!--Your Car IS trying to tell you summit!

Invest the time and effort in PROPER filtration and De-Watering of your WVO before it gets anywhere Near your car. Failing to filter and De-Water Properly will eventually destroy your fuel-system and have bad consequenses for your engine too...

You Cannot 'Filter WVO TOO much'!

My filtration (when I used to run WVO--Make Proper BioDiesel now.....) goes summit like this-

Settle WVO for at least 3 weeks Prior to de-canting from 'cubees' to allow heavy crud and water settle. Pour out carefully!

Pass through coarse strainer of 200 mic.

pass through 'fine' strainer of 80 mic,

De-Water by heating and air-drying at 80-100 deg. C--IMPORTANT!!

(Any moisture AT ALL in the fuel will eventually destroy the I.P. elements and injectors by cavitation and corrosion....)

Leave to Cool, --next day--Then pass through 20, 5, then 1 mic. Then a 1 micron Absolute filter.

Doing the above, and you'll never need to buy another 'car' fuel-filter again (Joking, but it'll not block due to cruddy oil prep!)

__________________
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

I vote for the Frybrid style heated filter. The heat is more important than the filter area. If you don't prefilter well enough, no filter is big enough. If you don't de-water well enough, remember none of the water block filters work properly with VO and water anyway.

Over the years, I have gone to smaller and smaller VO filters. My current system uses a filter with a VW oil cooler like the Frybrid but uses a small stock MB element. I change it every 30K miles only as a precaution. I also only need to carry one kind of spare. I HAVE had to change the diesel filter on the road (several times) but never a VO filter.

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Ron Schroeder
'85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
'83 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980:
'83 Mercedes 240D
'80 Audi 4000D
'83 ISUZU Pup
'70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel
'76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel
'86 Golf
Several diesel generators
All with 2 tank WVO conversion
LI NY

I use a Freightliner (Alliance-ABP n122) spin on fuel filter with the Racor heated water separator bowl that spins on the bottom of the filter (RAI\RK21527). The heater is 200W, and it works great, plus it has an easy drain to let out any water that may get into it. There might be a problem with size limitations, since this is in my 90 Suburban, aka Veg Burb. But it's a great filter with a lot of surface area. I only change it twice a year, except for one time when I got a watered down batch of oil. The filter is $18, and the bowl is $34. You would need a mount to fit. Mine came with the truck. Like I said, though, size would be a factor. They took the old GM filter out and mounted this next to the radiator so it's easier to get to, and then leads to secondary, pre-fuel injector fuel heater designed out of a stainless pipe that the fuel line and heater hose is run through. This is the only heat supply in the whole system and it works great! Simple, effective and cheap.

__________________
"Knowing is not enough, we must apply.
Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe

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1951 Chevy 3100

2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster

1983 GMC 1 ton Dually

1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold)

'90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban"
(single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD

'81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD

'83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD

2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!)