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#61
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Quote:
MMO made a believer out of me... when I bought my car the PO used WVO for about 20,000 and the WVO probably wasn't very clean.
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'03 E320 Sport. Bril Silv/Gray, Active vent, heated, Active Bi-Xenon, 17” whls, Wht gauges, Blk birdseye, Airmatic, and Pano roof. '83 300D "Katherine" Anthracite Grey/Java 151,000 miles Blown Engine RIP - rust free car - SOLD Mein Auto ist umweltfreundlich! (Oo{=|=}oO) |
#62
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When I did the Marvel Mystery Oil treatment on my Volvo I tried to put 1/4 cup through the Glow Plug Holes (depending on the Piston Position some drained out). Soaked a Week turned the engine over and repeated the above for 3 more days.
I do not think teaspoons or tablespoons full would be enough to do the job.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#63
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I used 1 quart between all five cylinders. I will turn it over slowly tonight by hand.
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Regards, Ian White 1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606 2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo 2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past) 1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past) |
#64
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I believe the miracle mystery oil is a slow solvent. Impatience might be the greatest enemy. The first periodically topped up soak should be at least a week. Block heater really helps. You do not want to loosen the rings enough just to start. This heater of course as there is virtually no chemical action under 70 degrees. As you increase the temperature the activity speeds up probably exponentially.
You want to clean most the gum out as well. Running with some leftover gum in the lands does not get rid of it. The residue just bakes in again.. Reducing what additional compression might be available. Or the freedom of the oil rings a little. The residue does flow downward towards those oil rings when the marvel oil dissolves it by gravity. We also see the largest effect of the vegatable oil on the compression rings. This does not mean some may not have impacted the oil rings to a lesser degree as well. The only new information to me that has come to light from your experiences so far. Vegatable oil gum or residue seems to continue hardening and drying out with a sitting engine. One other poster indicated this and it makes some sense in my opinion. Simply based on the fact there is no way that engine could have been running with such low compression numbers. So those compression numbers did not exist when active use of the engine was curtailed. No doubt they already had started down though. This all hinges on the bores not being scored and it was not a case of the temper heated out of the compression rings of course. I normally am against oil additives. Miracle mystery oil has claimed that a quart in the base oil once you get the car running has been shown to be very benificial in your type of situation. I would seriously consider it. Also there was a poster on your thread with heavy blowby after freeing up enough to run. These engines do not seem to have general oil ring problems, Most seem to wear out their compression rings or bores first. Unless he has broken oil rings in there I would start adding a quart of the mystery oil to the base oil of that car. With every oil change until the blowby reduces. It should as the oil rings improve their scraping action. The oil rings just might be still bound up a little and the normal base oil alone is not going to free them. I think his bores are still in good shape as he quotes the car starts very easily in cold weather. My thinking is the well known fact that if the oil rings are inefective a certain abnormal amount of oil reaches the combustion chamber. If the compression rings are basically floating on an excess amount of oil. When combustion occurs some blows the oil film away and escapes to the lower part of the engine. Possible? Now I will totally bore people with one of my ideals for consideration. Take a few samples of vegatable oil. Heat and cook them till it semi or totally solidified. People that regularily burn vegatable oil perhaps should do this. No pun intended. The knowledge may be useful for an occasional tune up of their engines. Best done outside on a camp stove. Otherwise your better half may deal with you in some unpleasant fashion as there might be smoke. Test one solvent on each sample to establish what is the fastest one. I suspect laquer thinner may be the best but just do not know. I use this as my favorite general solvent for many things. Reasonable in price for a five gallon can and it lasts quite awhile. For cleaning it also dries in seconds and cuts petroleum products extremely fast. Caution advised though as it is quite flameable. One thing against laquer thinner might or might not be it's very thin viscosity. Also because of it's tendency to rapidly evaporate a fair quantity would have to be injected. Or the escape routes of vapours sealed off. One sample should be done with the miracle mystery oil as a benchmark as we are already somewhat more aware of it.. The most interesting one may be whatever product that gentleman used to bring an engine back with no basic compression in five hours. Some type of engine restore I believe. I have previous to being on this forum also heard of brake fluid so it should be tried as well. I think It was refferenced years ago for rust bound rings though. My memory does not retain everything or if there I cannot source it all the time. I must be mentaly challenged to some degree. Last edited by barry123400; 08-27-2009 at 04:33 PM. |
#65
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Diesel Purge.
That's part of the reason I suggested using dp as the fuel for trying to start the car. It will dissolve the carbon. Squirt a little in (when cranking the engine) let it soak a while. Squirt a little more in while working whatever is in there (maybe in the form of a vapor which will condense on the cylinder walls/piston) by moving the piston. It may take a couple days of doing this, but it has worked like a charm for me on at least three cars that have been sitting. One - that runs great today - sat for four years.
I suspect the valve seats may rust slightly, as well, precluding complete valve closure, hence reducing compression further??? Jay.
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On the road, currently: '83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!) '87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side" '87 300TD 225k mi. Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er |
#66
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[QUOTE=babyjames;2280072
I suspect the valve seats may rust slightly, as well, precluding complete valve closure, hence reducing compression further??? Jay.[/QUOTE] Bound to be some oxidation of the seats and valve faces on those valves that remained open unused long term. Iron oxide or rust is pretty soft though so it probaly pounds off fast. A tremendious amount of corrosion would be another matter. Perhaps sticking valves if the upper valve stems seriously oxidised. If any previous carbon had built up over time it might soften with time and moisture as well. It too might pound off. |
#67
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I think it would be hard to tell motor oil from diesel fuel in a case like that.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#68
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I would not run MM Oil mixed with Multi Viscosity Oils except for a short distance to change it. The reason is that eh MM Oil might do something to the chemical makeup of that part that makes the Oil Multi Viscosity.
With single Viscosity Oil like 30wt; adding MM Oil to the crankcase would decrease the Viscosity some but otherwise would not change it much.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#69
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Sitting for 72 hours now, only 4 days left. I am working on other parts of the car now so its "break" hasnt been worse for wear...
Oh well...
__________________
Regards, Ian White 1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606 2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo 2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past) 1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past) |
#70
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I have time today to "waste" haha. Do you think I should roll the engine over and get the mmo out and throw the injectors back in and try to fire her up or just wait the general consensus of a week?
Thanks!
__________________
Regards, Ian White 1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606 2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo 2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past) 1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past) |
#71
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Did you use a block heater?....go for it
by using the GP holes, you will remove more liquid from the cylinders. After you button up, turn at least a few times by hand to ensure you don't bend any rods etc.. |
#72
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ps - I read that MMO is just mineral spirits and 30 weight oil with some fragrance.
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#73
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Nope my car didnt have a wiring harness from the block heater, just the prongs for the missing plug. So i couldnt use one.
__________________
Regards, Ian White 1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606 2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo 2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past) 1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past) |
#74
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UPDATE------ GOOD AND BAD NEWS
Okay got the engine going, I had some bad injectors, and had the shutoff valve hooked up wrong and a collapsed inlet filter. So today I got the engine running and it ran great, 3 bar oil pressure, except, once it started warming up it was knocking hard, so I cracked each line to see if it would stop and I cracked #2 and no change in tone. I listened with an automotive stethoscope and heard that bad noise around #2, So I checked compression on cylinder #2 it has 25 psi compression So im thinking i have a broken piston now. Cylinder 1 has 225 psi now, The engine got to 80 degrees Celsius, so Im thinking the engine is gonna get a new piston in hole #2. . I know the engine was only running on 4 cylinders because it was rocking terrible. Could this be anything other than a broken piston which creates this low low compression and a terrible knocking????
Thanks in advance...
__________________
Regards, Ian White 1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606 2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo 2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past) 1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past) |
#75
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If its really 25 psi..
you need to truly verify the mechanical failure before you pee in your bed. otherwise, run it good and hard and try to loosen up those rings or soak them again. Do some searching on H2O injection on Goog*e, it might be an option. Although Whunter advises against it. If it was a 'broken' piston, there would be much more than just 'knocking'... it would be metallic clanking and you immediately turn off the engine. |
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