I was in a different forum and found this recipe for B50, provided by one of the participants.

Am interested in your opinion IF you run biodiesel or WVO in your MB, since I am seriously looking at producing my own soon:

"Here's how I blend my B50:
1. Fill a cube with 50% WVO, 50% dino diesel (which, around here, has a fair amount of kerosene in it this time of year).
2. Add in 2 oz of Amsoil Diesel Concentrate additive, and an ounce of Amsoil Cold Flow Improver.
3. If it's around, I may replace some of the WVO with a quart of used transmission fluid, if I've recently done an auto-tranny rebuild, especially if it's going to be cold out (like this year's version of the Global Warming hoax has been)."

What do you think?

I personally have some concerns about the metal particles that may be mixed in with used tranny fluid. I doubt the type of filter he mentions would filter these particles out of the mix, but am interested in the comments of the more experienced.

__________________
Strelnik
Invest in America: Buy a Congressman!

1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5
3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6

That is not a formula for biodiesel. It is a formula for blending WVO in with your diesel.

Biodiesel is formed ONLY by chemically altering oils/fats through a chemical process, NOT by simply adding some things to it.

__________________
2009 ML320 Bluetec
1985 300CD
1981 300TD

Past Mercedes
1979 300TD
1982 300TD
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1998 E430
1984 300SD
1980 300SD

Use at least injection line heaters.With over 70 volcanoe eruptions in 2009 plus 2% decrease in Suns output,we may have a 100 year little Ice Age.

__________________
1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Well, that's not a recipe for biodiesel.
It's a recipe for a WVO blend.
Do a search on the opinions regarding WVO usage on this board.
It's, generally speaking, not thought very highly of, unless you have a well thought out conversion. Running a blend of actual biodiesel isn't a problem, unless you go too high a percentage in the cold, in which case it can gel.
Some people burn tranny fluid in their cars, but honestly, I wouldn't. The potential damage from metal particles and non-burning additives isn't worth the savings to me.

__________________

This is the kind of info I was looking for.

I do know people who periodically mix a quart of NEW ATF or 30W into the tank with the regular bio or dino stuff, but we are talking OM 621 engines, which are a idfferent animal aka older 190D and 200D types from the 60s.

Thanks again!

__________________
Strelnik
Invest in America: Buy a Congressman!

1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5
3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6

With the newer diesels and crappy electronics,and choked down exhaust.I would only run 10% biodiesel mix,or just plain diesel.
The new engines are not as stronge as the older,relieable Diesels.

__________________
1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

http://www.biodiesel.org/resources/definitions/
your recipe is a perfect example of "engine death in a jug", not biodiesel!

fyi, winter does not disprove global warming any more than summer disproves global cooling.

Forced did it before we thought about it.Yes he was ruff like a Marine Sgt. but he meant good.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

It isn't my recipe but you guys have confirmed what I have been thinking, namely that certain things added to regular fuel, such as 30 W oil or NEW ATF can't hurt, but the blending of fuel with used oils of any kind brings death closer to the engine.

I'm thinking about the tests done which discuss the lubricity of biodiesel in an era of low sulfur diesel fuel. I'm trying to extend the life of my engine, at the same time, save a little money if possible. But the engine is the investment, so if the fuel mix is death in a jug, it doesn't pass the test.

I've also heard people talk about thinning diesel fuel with a 1/2 cup of turpentine, any comments? Or did I open another can of worms?

__________________
Strelnik
Invest in America: Buy a Congressman!

1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5
3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6

those "tests" are done by additive makers to scare people into buying their useless junk. look back to the early 90's and they were playing the same "end of the world, your engine will die without our product" games. ultra low sulfur diesel has no problems at all.
don't buy the average cat pee from the local corner gas stations but buy it from truck stops. its always fresh!

I don't like scare advertising either, but that's NOT what this study said. This particular study said bio-diesel was better than the additives at increasing lubrication properties of fuel for the IP, so it didn't promote any additive. Just the opposite.

__________________
Strelnik
Invest in America: Buy a Congressman!

1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5
3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6

True Bio-diesel is a very good solvent and lubricator. It's very clean burning too - no sulpher, very little nitrates. Only downsides I see are availability, gelling during cold temps, sometimes cost and initial rapid cleaning of fuel system components (leads to clogged filters) and slightly less power per gallon.

I've heard guys recommend starting out in the summer with B2 or B5 which is 2% and 5% bio. This breaks your car in slowly while gaining the lubricity. Then later after your fuel system is clean and maybe your seals replaced, you can bump it up to a higher B number.

I plan to use biodiesel for the lubricity first. Everything else is just gravy.

__________________
Codifex
1981 240D ChinaBlue (Got her running with a donor engine.)
1983 300DTurbo w/sunroof.
1984 300TD manual sunroof. (Electrical Gremlins)

Grapir and UriahT,
X3

"New" "Fresh from an Unopened Container" ATF ain't anything to be using for
Diesel Fuel either...ATF has "Anti-Burn" type additives. AND ATF leaves a
powder like ash residue inside your Pre-Chambers.

Nothing but:
Commercial Diesel Fuel from a high volume truck stop (here it's all 5% Bio-Diesel)
Bio-Diesel / Diesel Blends.
Startron
Redline Synthetic Diesel Fuel Catalyst products

No WVO
No VO

The Damn Injectors and Injection Pump will suffer otherwise.

__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128

another "this will destroy your engine" thread.

I've put 60,000 miles on my 97 E300 running almost entirely on 95% WVO/ 5% RUG. I occasionally mix in some homemade BD, but mostly save the BD for my home furnace. My BD will slush up when it gets down to the 20's, but the WVO/RUG blend stays liquid down into the single digits.

This is all firsthand information. Feel free to PM me for more details if interested.

I've been making BD for 4 years and blending WVO/RUG for 3. No mods to my vehicles (except the EGR delete on the two 97's) and no adverse issues of note.

__________________
Mark in MA
05 MB E320CDI 402k Granite Grey Metallic
05 MB E320CDI 267k Black
05 MB E320CDI 232k White
05 MB E320CDI 209k Tectite Grey
99 Dodge 2500 Cummins 5sp 148k
62 Jeep CJ-6 120k

and I've been running 50,000 miles on straight diesel. from what everyone has been saying, my injection pump should have died years ago since ulsd doesnt have any lubrication!

thanks for giving the bad advice to everyone sparks.