OM617 in a Toyota Pickup with WVO Setup - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

dieslcruisrhead · #1 01-21-2010, 10:40 PM

Hi all,
I am putting a 617 into a 1991 Toyota pickup.

Here is the thread for anyone interested...
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12288

I have a few questions...

First, is how do I actuate this particular alternator? What are the three wires, I figure the two thicker wires I figure are for charging, what exactly is the thin wire?

EDIT resolved I'm going to do the Saab 9000 Alternator. . I figured out which wire from the Toyota (yellow) will take the place of blue on the Benz. Very excited...

dieslcruisrhead · #2 01-21-2010, 10:43 PM

Next is this doohickey I am assuming is an emissions and the EGR control? I am deleting the EGR and all of these controls so I'm assuming I can get rid of this giszmo?

thanks...

dieslcruisrhead · #3 01-21-2010, 11:55 PM

Last swap related question is also semi WVO related.. I am planning my own semi home-brew setup for the WVO setup.

Question 1) Because of the swap locating the oil cooler is proving to be difficult. I am thinking of using a large #30 hot plate with coolant to cool the oil and then have that coolant go right to a second hot plate that heats the WVO. Does anyone think it would be a bad idea to use coolant to cool the oil rather than an air cooler similar to OEM? This issue is I have very limited room.

I am also going to use a two way switch between the vegetable oil feed and vegetable oil return with an electric pump inline. The point of this is that I will put an electric temp gauge (here is what I'm planning to use
) inline so before I switch to vegetable oil I can trigger a "flush" switch that will turn on the pump and the 2 way switch so I am getting the oil spinning around and an accurate temp of what it is running at. I am also planning on using a Vegtherm from Plant Drive for final auxillary heating before it enters the pumps as well and I think this all will do the trick for heating the oil (besides the coolant-heated filter)... Do people think this is unneeded or overkill? I am thinking with the Veg Therm this can give me faster warm up times and a more accurate read of the temps (I won't use idiot lights etc similar to a frybrid kit)...

I think even with all of this I am planning dual batteries and I think the 65 amp alternator will be OK. The only real draw will be the VegTherm of course and the OEM electric auxillary coolant pump. I will run in parallel for the coolant with an electric switch (the OEM 300D one) to turn it off for the heater when the heater is in the off position.

Question 1 -- If I plumb the input switch just before the lift pump, how long does the engine take to cycle through the oil back to diesel for shut down?

I am thinking of doing a couple things...

1) Putting a delay relay between the 3 way switches so diesel returns to diesel and VO returns to the VO tank. I was thinking something along the lines of this but it's only 2 minutes: http://www.kussmaul.com/091-100-012.html

I would use a glass sight to make sure it is returned to the correct tank but I want to make sure a 2 minute or shorter timer works rather than a 4 minute or something else.. Do people think a 2 minute delay relay will work just fine? Or something called a PAC TR-7 that supposedly should also work and can be programmed to a 4 minute delay..
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/PAC+-+Universal+Trigger+Output+Module/9046276.p?skuId=9046276&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=9046276&ref=06&loc=01&id=1218012135081

Thanks for any comments...

JimmyL · #4 01-22-2010, 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieslcruisrhead

Next is this doohickey I am assuming is an emissions and the EGR control? I am deleting the EGR and all of these controls so I'm assuming I can get rid of this giszmo?

thanks...

The white housing is the vacuum modulator for the tranny. It controls vacuum to the tranny. You might save it if you aren't using the MB tranny and offer it to somebody. They are getting hard to come by...

A little something that somebody I knew put together:

And this is ugly:

okyoureabeast · #5 01-22-2010, 12:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieslcruisrhead

Next is this doohickey I am assuming is an emissions and the EGR control? I am deleting the EGR and all of these controls so I'm assuming I can get rid of this giszmo?

thanks...

No actually that is the ALDA and what I believe to be the vacuum control valve. That little green thing above it is a vacuum dampener.

Switchover valve and VCV testing

All of that you see there is related to the injection pump system. The EGR is not related to it at all.

If I recall correctly the EGR is connected by a brown and white tube near the front of the engine and a little bit towards the passenger's side.

That link I gave you has an excellent map of the vacuum tubing system.

Your other questions I sadly can't help you with

Edit: Drats, foiled by the Rogue T Intolerant man once again!

JimmyL · #6 01-22-2010, 12:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okyoureabeast

Edit: Drats, foiled by the Rogue T Intolerant man once again!

Nah, you were doing fine Beast.......

rcounts · #7 01-22-2010, 12:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL

The white housing is the vacuum modulator for the tranny. It controls vacuum to the tranny. You might save it if you aren't using the MB tranny and offer it to somebody. They are getting hard to come by...

I thought that the white plastic piece in the picture was the vacuum shutoff...?
And yeah the aluminum cylinder in front of it is the ALDA. If you do a search for the word ALDA you'll find LOTS of threads about what it does, and modifying and/or deleting it...

okyoureabeast · #8 01-22-2010, 12:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcounts

I thought that the white plastic piece in the picture was the vacuum shutoff...?
And yeah the aluminum cylinder in front of it is the ALDA. If you do a search for the word ALDA you'll find LOTS of threads about what it does, and modifying and/or deleting it...

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg133/litespeed58/califvac1985-1.jpg

In that picture I'm guessing it leads to the shutoff valve, but that vac document doesn't show us that

I was messing with you Jimmy. You bet me to the posting punch!

4x4_Welder · #9 01-22-2010, 01:21 AM

"Dealwithit" put up some decent pics of his linkage in my thread on stop solenoids over at 4bt.
I know he's got more too, but you can basically see what can go away there.
From what I've read here and elsewhere, the plastic thing on the back of the IP controls vacuum for the transmission, and is connected to the throttle linkage but it can all come off without issue. The stop controller is below that.

dieslcruisrhead · #10 01-22-2010, 02:19 AM

Good stuff.. So both of these questions basically answered...

I think I'm going to use a stiffer mount (because this will be a 4x4 application) so hopefully it will turn out well and not vibrate too much. I will have the flywheel externally balanced as my automatic flywheel clearly is externally balanced (drill holes all over the place).

Paulc66t · #11 01-22-2010, 07:58 AM

The 65 amp alternator will not keep up with the vegatherm. The alternator will slowly die trying to keep up. I have replaced mine 3x plus(luckly under warranty). At this point I have stopped using the vegatherm until I can upgrade the alternator. It does help quicken warm up and switch over.Most useful in the winter time.

snookwhaler · #12 01-22-2010, 08:45 AM

Is that a "Cherry Bomb"? LOL!!

You really got that thing "crammed" in there. Interesting build... Hard to find those old Yoda's anymore that are not a pile of rust and dust.

rscurtis · #13 01-22-2010, 11:12 AM

Great idea except for the WVO. Spend some time making bio-diesel- your engine will appreciate it, and it will still be cheaper than the repairs required from WVO.

dieslcruisrhead · #14 01-22-2010, 01:44 PM

The red truck posted is not mine. Just frame a reference for the limited amount of space I will have when I get it in there.

RE biodiesel I have actually made a ton over the years (thousands of gallons literally) but I am excited to go WVO this time mostly because I don't have the time, it is more expensive, and is a slightly PITA even with our automated biodiesel processor (BioPro380) that we now have. That and I am sitting on 100 gallons all winter because of lack of heat...

So, time to finally foray into WVO myself for the first time. Very excited honestly. Good to know on the Vegtherm! I think I'm going to put it on its own switch regardless. I assume it draws less when the vegetable oil is preheated?

thanks,
Andre

mike-81-240d · #15 01-22-2010, 02:35 PM

^Stick with BioDiesel please, WVO ruins these engines.