Just acquired an 84 300D and I'm determined to run the car on alternative fuels (wvo or biodiesel) come hell or high-water. Knowing what I know about the fuel industry and how we all are getting screwed, I've decided to get a bit of revenge. I'm still researching the different systems, and I'm considering a dual-tank system that I will homebrew myself. But, then I stumbled upon this on Fleabay. I'd be happy to hear opinions about it.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280444039062&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Do some reading before you decided what type of system you want to put in. Single tank conversions don't tend to work for very long. Read about LoveCraft.

I very strongly suggest you run a two tank system. Cold veg oil kills engines!! And even the most well designed single tank conversions start up on cold VO. Even at ambient temps of 90F the VO will not combust properly and when this happens you gum up injectors, injection pumps, and pistons rings. Which causes fouled injectors, broken injection pumps, and blown engines. With stuck piston ring you start getting VO in your motor oil. When you get enough VO in your motor oil it polymerizes(turns to gelatin). And say goodbye to you engine.

I've succesfully been running VO in a two tank system for 4 years and over 50k miles. I've had not issues to this point.

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+1

That contraption can't heat the oil in your injection pump or injectors when it's cold starting.

Go to the Frybrid forum and brew a pot of coffee...

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

That's the answer that I was looking for, DD44. I have done extensive reading at pretty much all of the forums. Lot's of good stuff out there....but the product infighting gets pretty tiresome. I consider this forum to be a bit more basic, but the fact that it's a Mercedes-only forum gets rid of a lot of the distractions.

I will be going the 2-tank route, and with a system that I create.

So, far I'm considering this:

30-plate fphe

custom-built tank with coolant-heating, but I'm still researching the means to do this.

hydraforce sv8 3-way valves

HIH


What options should I consider to get the fuel to the IP? Separate Diesel/WVO filters?

Injection heaters?

if you only want the benz to last a couple more yrs.

You're a good amount of the way there in terms of finding what you need.

Per my sig, I have a Frybrid setup and I think it's good. As of this writing I have 25k miles on it and everything runs great. I have hands on experience with Greasecar systems on these engines as well.

Here are some things to consider:
- for your tank: make it out of aluminum
- a three valve setup is really nice and cuts the purge time down to 15 seconds. Hyrdaforce valves are great.
- for the coolant fed in-tank heat exchanger, Frybrid has a very good (but custom) solution. That design has the basic principles to emulate: 1.) aluminum 2.) heats the minimum amount of tank area 3.) One piece and removable to get inside the tank if needed.
- I am against electric injection line heaters on these vehicles. It adds a big draw to the alternator which is only 65 amps. I also think it's not necessary - there's plenty of heat in the coolant to sustain 180F fuel injection temperatures. the other problem is that if you have them on all the time, heating diesel #2 to high temps is bad for lubricity

- you definitely want separate diesel and WVO filters. That way, you do not have to 'purge' all the fuel in the filter before shutting the car down. the way you execute this is the meat and potatoes of the conversion. Some conversions (Frybrid, Greasecar, lots of DIYers) use the stock lift pump to suck both fuels in. The fuel pump is after the last switching valve. Other folks have successfully used low pressure fuel pumps on the WVO side to supplement the stock lift pump. Both systems have their advantages. Ultimately, I think the stock lift pump method seems to work just fine.

- for the HIH, make sure to go the TIH route: aluminum line inside rubber hose, as opposed to the grease car PEX solution.

At the same time you are looking at the car's setup, research the filtering of the WVO. I think this is the more critical aspect. The best conversion fed poorly processed WVO will fail.

Hope this is helpful...getting into this stuff is like drinking from the fire hose
dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

http://greglyons.fortunecity.com/1991_MB_350SDL/1991_350_SDL_WVO_Conversion.htm

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Greg
2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO

I was wondering about those inline heaters and the amperage draw. Thanks for that info.

I've got a good handle on filtering my wvo and I'm considering a centrifuge, just because of the time-constraints. But, I may go to a lower-dollar setup to get started. I like Sunwizard's setup but am a bit confused on whether or not the oil has to settle for weeks before centrifuging?

I have run fattywagons injection line heaters 3 years with no problems plus a subwoofer and amp.Injection line heaters will heat the fuel till engine heat takes over.Remeber heating a tank will cause moisture in the fuel.Use a heated fuel pickup.
I only have 66,000 miles experince with wvo.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

you mention homebrewing your own fuel. converted fuel processed properly does not need any heaters. it's called biodiesel, and it runs just like diesel.
veg oil "processed" by heating, and filtering is just cleaner veg oil, and does need heating to burn properly in the engine.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Your system is looking good. I have been doing single tank for a while after years of two tank. Single tank can be done right too. Not sure how many miles i'll get. But i like not having an extra tank in the car. I have a parts car that had an elsbett single tank system , 1987 TD that has blown motor from a stuck ring in #3 cylinder after about 40,000 of mostly WVO. The system wasn't heating adequately when i drove the car home and three glow plugs were out. So had the PO checked his glow plugs , made sure his heater was heating and maybe changed his oil more often, or blended maybe 20% diesel or kerosene, maybe the engine would still be good. Maybe not.

No need to buy any premade system. What you have is right and you can do it as good as anyone else for cheaper. Except one thing -- the copper /brass brazed fphe's can leak. I've had a couple leak. It sucks. Coolant gets in your fuel. Plus vegetable oil polymerizes in em.

For heat exchanger the best ones are the elsbett ones. http://www.elsbett.info/us/online-shop.html . No copper or brass. They are small and have the fittings built in. Super easy to install. Looks like they are 92 euros now. But shipping is minimum 50.00 from germany. Maybe you can get a group buy. You can get 6 shipped for 50.00 last time i did it.

One more thing , the heated tank, try a plastic tempo boat tank from one of the online boat part retailers. I think marinepowerservice.com is cheapest. They come in all sizes and shapes for about 135.00 with fuel sender . I cut a hole in them and put an aluminum or copper coil 5/8 od tubing down there. I put the fuel pickup right in the center. Works great. Plastic insulates better than metal.

Also an afterglow relay is good to have.

Also new injector nozzles if yours are old and glow plugs are good .

mcmaster car sells roll of aluminum 3/8 od tubing for your hose in hose. And the hydraforce valves are good. I have some on my wife's tdi that have little red manual switches on them. So i can switch them manually or electrically . That is really cool. Those are hard to find though. Never seen them anywhere for sale. I think maybe a hydraulic shop might have them.

good luck and don't be scared of a single tank system if you want to try it to ease into the vegetable oil. Put your heater , new glow plugs, after glow relay, nozzles on and blend 50/50 in summer while you make your heated tank. Change your oil every 5,000 miles and enjoy not buying as much fuel.

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What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius