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  #1  
Old 09-10-2012, 07:55 PM
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adding 2nd tank to a wvo converstion...fuel line question

I have an already converted over 300TD and currently converting over my 1983 300SD. I originally had them single tank systems but living in NJ I figured its only logical to make a 2 tank set up. I'm putting the tank in the trunk of the SD and in the spare tire compartment on the TD. I'm looking for the cheapest and best way to run lines up to the front of the car. I was thinking rubber hose? Anyone have a link to where they get their stuff from? I'm only doing a feed line not return line. Does anyone also heat the tank in the back for the winter. Just looking for ideas and not trying to dump tons of money into it. Thanks!
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1979 Mercedes 300SD 314k
1988 Mercedes 560SEL (parts car)

2002 Toyota 4Runner
1950 Packard 8
2006 Ford Ranger 4x4 (manual)
2010 Chrysler Sebring Convertible

Previous German cars-
2001 Mercedes SL500
1983 Mercedes 300SD
2011 BMW 328i (manual)
2008 BMW 535xi (manual)
2006 BMW M3 (manual)
1980 Mercedes 300TD
2006 BMW 750i
1996 Mercedes E300D
1994 BMW 740i
2006 BMW 330xi (manual)
1999 E300DT Smoke silver/black 253k
2012 BMW 535i Xdrive M-Sport
1984 300TD-T 304k
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  #2  
Old 09-11-2012, 11:11 AM
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You could use PEX tubing. Slightly more compact and durable than rubber tubing.

I'd say you're definitely going to want to use a tank heater of some type for the NJ winter. I assume that youre using some kind of heat exchanger in the line before the fuel goes into the engine. That grease HAS TO BE hot enough.

Cold grease is going to be harder on the mech lift pump to bring to the front. You may also want to consider using some kind of electric boost pump to help out.
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  #3  
Old 09-11-2012, 11:50 AM
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I used 3/8"OD aluminum hard line for my supply and return lines, it's something like $1.50 or $2 a foot, and you'll need 10 feet or so. For heating my fuel lines and tank I used coolant hoses bundled with my fuel lines, and I had a coolant tube welded into my tank and ran coolant through that which kept the tank from gelling up. Never had any issues. You don't heat to heat the tank a ton, you only need to keep the VO liquid and flowing easily. Worry about cranking the VO heat up in the engine bay.
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  #4  
Old 09-11-2012, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbozeke418 View Post
I'm only doing a feed line not return line.
How is that going to work?
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  #5  
Old 09-11-2012, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
How is that going to work?
You run the return back into the supply. Some folks think this helps keep the VO temps up, and it also reduces the materials needed. I personally didn't do it on my conversion. I've hear to many stories of problems with air bubbles on systems with a looped return.
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  #6  
Old 09-11-2012, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
You run the return back into the supply. Some folks think this helps keep the VO temps up, and it also reduces the materials needed. I personally didn't do it on my conversion. I've hear to many stories of problems with air bubbles on systems with a looped return.
That's correct. I have a switch under the hood and can have it loop into the main tank or keep it recirculating. I keep it on a loop so that the WVO stays warmer. If I run it on diesel, I'll just have any excess dump into the main tank. It's worked perfectly so far so we'll see.
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1979 Mercedes 300SD 314k
1988 Mercedes 560SEL (parts car)

2002 Toyota 4Runner
1950 Packard 8
2006 Ford Ranger 4x4 (manual)
2010 Chrysler Sebring Convertible

Previous German cars-
2001 Mercedes SL500
1983 Mercedes 300SD
2011 BMW 328i (manual)
2008 BMW 535xi (manual)
2006 BMW M3 (manual)
1980 Mercedes 300TD
2006 BMW 750i
1996 Mercedes E300D
1994 BMW 740i
2006 BMW 330xi (manual)
1999 E300DT Smoke silver/black 253k
2012 BMW 535i Xdrive M-Sport
1984 300TD-T 304k
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  #7  
Old 09-11-2012, 07:41 PM
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I just thought of something else....Has anyone ever ran a steal line down the exhaust from the rear of the car for the WVO? That would prob heat it right up!!
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1979 Mercedes 300SD 314k
1988 Mercedes 560SEL (parts car)

2002 Toyota 4Runner
1950 Packard 8
2006 Ford Ranger 4x4 (manual)
2010 Chrysler Sebring Convertible

Previous German cars-
2001 Mercedes SL500
1983 Mercedes 300SD
2011 BMW 328i (manual)
2008 BMW 535xi (manual)
2006 BMW M3 (manual)
1980 Mercedes 300TD
2006 BMW 750i
1996 Mercedes E300D
1994 BMW 740i
2006 BMW 330xi (manual)
1999 E300DT Smoke silver/black 253k
2012 BMW 535i Xdrive M-Sport
1984 300TD-T 304k
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  #8  
Old 09-12-2012, 12:43 AM
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fuel line

Exhaust lines do not work they are to inconsistant and are actually hard to mount. Plus they shake around to much.

I like PEX line the last one I purchased was gray 3/8 OD with 1/4 ID I have used it on a few Mercedes it was $30 for 100 feet a few years back. On my 1985 it has all gray PEX fuel lines also. I heat it and push it on to the fittings and no hose clamp is needed. Never get air leaks this way.

Run a coolant lines to the tank in the back and just bundle everything together. You can use Pex for the coolant lines also. You might try to find
3/8 inch ID PEX line and use it for the coolant and the fuel line. You can buy it at Lowe's or Home depot now in the 50 foot lenghts.

I always suggest a FPHE under the hood. I avoid hose clamps whenever possible.
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  #9  
Old 09-12-2012, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbozeke418 View Post
I just thought of something else....Has anyone ever ran a steal line down the exhaust from the rear of the car for the WVO? That would prob heat it right up!!
I've thought about running it by the exuast manifold once or twice to make use of the heat there. You'd have to be carefull not to get it too hot though or you'd start cooking the VO inside your fuel lines.
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  #10  
Old 09-13-2012, 03:47 AM
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ok...scratch that idea then!
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1979 Mercedes 300SD 314k
1988 Mercedes 560SEL (parts car)

2002 Toyota 4Runner
1950 Packard 8
2006 Ford Ranger 4x4 (manual)
2010 Chrysler Sebring Convertible

Previous German cars-
2001 Mercedes SL500
1983 Mercedes 300SD
2011 BMW 328i (manual)
2008 BMW 535xi (manual)
2006 BMW M3 (manual)
1980 Mercedes 300TD
2006 BMW 750i
1996 Mercedes E300D
1994 BMW 740i
2006 BMW 330xi (manual)
1999 E300DT Smoke silver/black 253k
2012 BMW 535i Xdrive M-Sport
1984 300TD-T 304k
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  #11  
Old 09-13-2012, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
I've hear to many stories of problems with air bubbles on systems with a looped return.
Years ago, I put a Perkins 4.108 in a Chevy Vega that only had a single line from the tank to the engine. I used the float bowl off of a Holley carburetor in the engine compartment to dump the return fuel into. The bowl always stayed full and effectively removed any possibility of air in the system. Of course you need a boost pump to keep the float bowl supplied and the lift pump draws from there. Worked perfect with the 4.108, but there could be a problem using this setup with a larger engine where the heat picked up by the fuel in the engine could get excessive, or maybe could be a benefit for a WVO setup.

By the way, the major reason I went with this setup as opposed to running a fuel return line to the tank, was to be able to get a real time fuel usage reading for an early aftermarket auto computer that had a mpg function on it. I was able to read just the make up fuel to the engine ahead of the float bowl.
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  #12  
Old 09-14-2012, 06:56 AM
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I ran a looped return with a valve to purge air out.Be sure and don't use stock tank for wvo.Use a aluminum or plastic boat tank.
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  #13  
Old 09-14-2012, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldsinner111 View Post
I ran a looped return with a valve to purge air out.Be sure and don't use stock tank for wvo.Use a aluminum or plastic boat tank.
Why is that? I've been running it in the main tank and everything is fine. I want to have the fuel gauge work for it too.
__________________
1979 Mercedes 300SD 314k
1988 Mercedes 560SEL (parts car)

2002 Toyota 4Runner
1950 Packard 8
2006 Ford Ranger 4x4 (manual)
2010 Chrysler Sebring Convertible

Previous German cars-
2001 Mercedes SL500
1983 Mercedes 300SD
2011 BMW 328i (manual)
2008 BMW 535xi (manual)
2006 BMW M3 (manual)
1980 Mercedes 300TD
2006 BMW 750i
1996 Mercedes E300D
1994 BMW 740i
2006 BMW 330xi (manual)
1999 E300DT Smoke silver/black 253k
2012 BMW 535i Xdrive M-Sport
1984 300TD-T 304k
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  #14  
Old 09-14-2012, 11:19 PM
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poly

If you let it sit for too long or get to low to often it turns to snot in the steel tank. notreally the technical discription but acurate.
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  #15  
Old 11-19-2012, 03:53 PM
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good luck with that
 
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exhaust

I used hard lines I got from the junkyard, from another 300D. I wouldn't recommend this, it was a pain in the keester. If I did it again I'd just use rubber lines, wrapped with something protective. I'd bump up the inner diameter of the lines a notch over the stock lines, as well. I haven't had problems, but I figure it's smart to make life as easy as possible for your IP. It's the heart of your system.

I've thought about exhaust heat as well. Despite the naysaying above I don't see why it wouldn't work. You'd have to be careful about insulating it properly so the lines ended up at the right temp (not too hot) but I figure the exhaust temp itself should be pretty constant once the system is hot, so this should be doable if you're able to do the basic thermal calculation. Mounting may be prohibitively difficult though.
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