New in the forum, I was searching for any post discussing the used of "Waste Motor Oil" in any Benz diesel. All I found is everything about WVO, any member using WMO?

I been running it on my cummins for 23K, I thought I would run it in a 1983 300D. What is so nice about this car is, it has 76K original miles. But it sat for awhile.

I was doing this in my old 83 300D. Car ran ok but then I found out that WMO is just too dirty to run without damaging the motor. I own an 85 300 D w/192K on it and the only non-diesel I ever run is tranny fluid and not often. I've seen some discussions about WMO if properly processed I guess it'd be fine. Some folks I know have a Lannair furnace that runs on WMO and it needs pretty constant attention to keep it running clean. My town also burns WMO at the garage and said the same thing, lots of attention to the furnace (but it is reliable) and they'd never run the stuff in the town diesel trucks.

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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2
1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD
2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck
THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be.

If not filtered correctly, yes the constant upkeep is more than the average person is willing to take on. but if you use a centrifuge to clear the WMO and mixed thin enough as closed to D2, the advantage is .85 cents a gal.

I'm not against alternative fuels, however, if my car had 76k original miles, I would be inclined to find something with a lot more miles to experiment with. But, then again, I don't even trust "recycled" oil products off the shelf.

Have you sent a sample of your processed oil to be tested by anyone? I'm curious to know what's left in it after the centrifuge. Is it still black?

If you can process it enough to where it burns relatively clean, for .85/gal I think it's a great alternative. I just don't think I'd do it to such a fresh engine. Keep us posted on how it works!

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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern"
1980 300TD
1983 300D Euro "China Cat"

I ran a WMO mix in my '83 300SD for a couple thousand miles before selling the car -- the wife had a newer E300D and the 300SD became superfluous.

I was using a centrifuge, a 120 gph pressure-driven one from PA Biodiesel.

Lots of uncontrolled variables; I didn't know exactly what was in my oil, since I collected it from multiple sources on Craigslist.

But my experience can boil down to this: the more passes you do with the centrifuge, the better your results will be. I was able to centrifuge (25+ passes) even diesel engine oil to the point where I could see a little bit of light through it when pouring, though I never did get it to stop being black.

The car never gave me problems on WMO, other than lots of smoking (which may or may not have been the WMO's fault -- it was a long-neglected car), but my truck had major reliability issues on WMO/diesel mix. I ended up giving up on it for the truck.

I think there's a lot of promise, but I eventually decided the time I was having to invest wasn't worth the payoff.

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Lots of diesel W126s in the past
Current: 1991 Toyota 4Runner with an OM603

I've read up a lot on WMO and really see it coming down to 2 main things. 1-the filtration (how much and how you filter it) and 2-the source (where you get it from and what kind of oil).

I work as a tech at a dealership and I control my source. So I would just need to get the filtration process very good.
Filtering to 1 micron and using a centrifuge should be good enough I would think.

I did alot of reading also. I read a guy put 200k on his merceds with 50/50 wmo.
1 Filter
2 Filter
3 Never run diesel oil the carbon is really hard to remove

I have been running new oil so I dont have to filter

Most of the oil I collect is from a friend who owns a bus service faclity and another friend with auto service business at his house. the oil from the bus service is mostly from the bussed he service (15w-40) the shell brand.

I use to filter the oil down to 1 micron with filter bags, it seats for several day before I mix it with Regulan Unleaded Gas (RUG), after mixing it I let seat for several more days before it is pumped into the truck. The initial ration was 85% wmo and 15% RUG, got alittle black smoke. I am mixing it 80% to 20% now, at this ratio the smoke (gray) is minimal only when WOT. The water injection and HOD onboard plays a major role in the clean burning, the tail pipe does not look black, it is more gray and no black powder.

That's a photo of the tail pipe on my Ram, as you can see it is gray and no black powder. This truck has a tuner onboard, set at high ouput 150+ hp which is dumping a lot of fuel. Trucks with the same set up, their pipe is black and lots of the powder junk not to mention their fender and bumper are black as well.

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All true. How are you affording to run new oil, though? I'd think that'd get expensive quick. Even generic oil costs, what, 2-3x what pump diesel does, and you still have to thin it with something.

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Lots of diesel W126s in the past
Current: 1991 Toyota 4Runner with an OM603

I have 110 gals wmo for emergency

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

I have a free sourcs

Sweet. Enjoy it while it lasts

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Lots of diesel W126s in the past
Current: 1991 Toyota 4Runner with an OM603

I have done lots of research on different used oils being run as fuel. My choice is WMO or WATF. I'm having procurement issues right now but I have run it in the 300SD in the past.

I cut my oil with about 15% RUG, let it settle, and filter it through a 1 micron bag filter. I only have 5 gallon buckets, so it can be a laborious process but I like saving $20 per bucket I pour in. I usually have some D2 in the tank or in the mix as well. The highest concentration I have run is about 50/50. That would be 5 gallons on top of an almost empty tank of D2.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

A short update on Miss Doris running on WMO, 50 miles today I think after seating for 12 yrs. Engine runs quite, no smoke and definitely accel faster. It was half full when I picked it up, pumped in 10 gal of wmo and topped it with 1.5 gal of D2. I am going to keep running 50/50 mix, that 50% already thinned out with RUG then 50% D2.

I am going to check the mpg doing my to and from work and running around the area, not the scientifc approach but it is what it is. Drive, fill up and calculate the mpg.

Filtering to 1 micron is a waste of filters. Just use a standard 10 micron fuel transfer pump filter. Your'e going to want to use a prefilter before you use your 10 micron. Bed sheets work great as prefilters. Also your going to want a water filter, if you don't have one already installed. The centrifuge is the best approach. but this approach is cheap!