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  #16  
Old 08-17-2014, 12:57 PM
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I have run a mix of syntheic Motorcycle oil.I keep 90 gals,in case of war,or the grid fails do to solar flare.

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  #17  
Old 10-20-2014, 01:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
There is debate about how well..

You need to become educated as to the risk, before you do this.
The injection pump and injectors are the prime danger zone, if there is metal particulate, abrasive, or the big killer WATER...............

I carry gallons of virgin oil, and have used it as emergency fuel many times in 35+ years, WITH NO ISSUE...
My favored oil is Mobile1, never had any issue running as fuel even at 100% (at most a tiny increase of smoke).

Personally:
Here is a brief list of what I filter at one or two micron, run through a water separator, and run with no difficulty.
* USED ATF.
* Kerosene.
* 100+ year old lamp oil.
* 100 year old engine oil.
* 70 year old diesel.
* Castor oil.
* Virgin (food grade) vegetable oil (regardless of age) of more plant verities than I can recall or list.
* USED electrical transformer oil.
* USED mineral oil.
* USED Elevator hydraulic oil.
* USED Heavy equipment (crane, pan, bull dozer, etc) hydraulic oil.
* USED Industrial (manufacturing) hydraulic conveyor/handling oil.

Alternative fuel links (Diesel)


.
Even though my OM606 is still a IDI diesel, I can't imagine that pushing the creativity of fuel this far in a remotely modern engine works? Is this only for the early cars (300 SDL, etc), or would my OM606 burn a mix of properly filtered oils, if cut with say, Kerosene?
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  #18  
Old 10-21-2014, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloudsurfer View Post
Even though my OM606 is still a IDI diesel, I can't imagine that pushing the creativity of fuel this far in a remotely modern engine works? Is this only for the early cars (300 SDL, etc), or would my OM606 burn a mix of properly filtered oils, if cut with say, Kerosene?
Properly filtered, and properly heated/thinned/etc. it will burn just fine in a 606. The 606 still have mechanical plungers(just computer controlled), mechanical injectors, and good old fashioned pistons.

The pump *may* be more prone to jamming up with poor fuel-it's a bit more refined than say a 616 pump.
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  #19  
Old 10-21-2014, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Simpler=Better View Post
Properly filtered, and properly heated/thinned/etc. it will burn just fine in a 606. The 606 still have mechanical plungers(just computer controlled), mechanical injectors, and good old fashioned pistons.

The pump *may* be more prone to jamming up with poor fuel-it's a bit more refined than say a 616 pump.
Interesting. I've run quite a bit of JET-A through my 606, and it's just fine burning that when mixed with regular #2 diesel.

This has got me started thinking where it'd leave you if you ran something like 50% centrifuged/ filtered/ water separated used motor oil/ ATF/ hydraulic oil/ etc with 50% JET (essentially #1 kerosene).....
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  #20  
Old 10-21-2014, 10:15 PM
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I have an 82 300D and I run straight Jet-A in mine. Every so often I will throw some used turbine engine oil in it thinking it will help lubricate things a little bit. Had read that straight jet would be fine for 300D wouldn't be a problem. Any thoughts or was I misinformed. Sorry didn't mean to change subject from syn but thought good thread to ask on.
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  #21  
Old 10-21-2014, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by cbum33 View Post
I have an 82 300D and I run straight Jet-A in mine. Every so often I will throw some used turbine engine oil in it thinking it will help lubricate things a little bit. Had read that straight jet would be fine for 300D wouldn't be a problem. Any thoughts or was I misinformed. Sorry didn't mean to change subject from syn but thought good thread to ask on.
If you run jetA a.k.a. kerosene, you should include at least a few percent of lubricity additive for piston engines because the fuel feed pump, IP and valves need lubrication whereas a turbine fuel system doesn't. The very best lubricity additive is biodiesel.

The very best winterizing additive for biodiesel is 'stale' jetB or jetA plus about 10% petrol. My 88 Toyota diesel truck runs a mix of canola B20 plus jetB and pump grade ULSD through the winter to temperatures below zero without problems.
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  #22  
Old 10-22-2014, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by azitizz View Post
I was about to filter and burn off a bunch of used motor and clear tractor hydraulic oil that was going to go to the recyclers here and someone chided me saying how it was more or less against the law as it releases so many heavy metals into the atmosphere.

I argued that this is basically what they do when you take it to the recycling depot, it will probably get burned in some airport hangar or industrial shop heater, but he said it was always at a temperature high enough to completely burn off any of the harmful metals.(mercury etc...)

Is there anyone better informed than me on the subject?
It is possible to "burn off" complex compounds in an engine's combustion chamber and break them into smaller compounds, which are them burned as fuel. But you do this when the temperature is high enough to burn without massive amounts of smoke (i.e. the stuff that didn't get broken and burned).

If your diesel fuel mix is such that plumes of black smoke are following you everywhere you go, then your mix is not being burned (logical). Dilute it and add about a cup ful of turpentine per 10 gallons, which increases the cetane rating of the mix (a trick I learned from old truckers).

There is no way to separate any element into its subcomponents without creating a nuclear explosion.

Why do you think they called it "atomic" and "nuclear?" They were describing the rupture of the bonds that keep elements together.
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  #23  
Old 10-22-2014, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by John Galt View Post
If you run jetA a.k.a. kerosene, you should include at least a few percent of lubricity additive for piston engines because the fuel feed pump, IP and valves need lubrication whereas a turbine fuel system doesn't. The very best lubricity additive is biodiesel.

The very best winterizing additive for biodiesel is 'stale' jetB or jetA plus about 10% petrol. My 88 Toyota diesel truck runs a mix of canola B20 plus jetB and pump grade ULSD through the winter to temperatures below zero without problems.
Exactly. I try to keep about 5% biodiesel in my mix for this reason. Not enough to worry about the seals that I haven't replaced, but I like the added lubricity.

This has got me thinking about adding maybe 30%-50% WMO to my jet fuel as maybe being a decent mix to burn in this thing.....

Last edited by Cloudsurfer; 10-22-2014 at 12:43 PM.
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  #24  
Old 11-29-2014, 07:18 PM
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when Safeway changes the oil on there highway tractors they just bump all the oil from the crankcase into the fuel tank, and go.
Chuck
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  #25  
Old 11-29-2014, 11:20 PM
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I have access to a 55 gallon drum of Varsol being disposed of. Anyone know its combustion properties? Is it mixable with diesel at least? I have a 2 tank vegetable oil system, so I can keep it separate if needed...

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