Question about coolant hoses in engine bay for WVO install

[Cazzzidy]

Hey guys,

I am almost finished with my second tank WVO install on my 82 300D.

In case any one is interested in doing this project, it is fairly time consuming. I have spent a good four days on my conversion so far. I have built, painted and carpeted a special platform in the trunk that raises the WVO tank to allow spare tire access, I have installed and secured the tank with straps, mounted the large Racor filter to the tank with a custom bracket, ran Greasel's 3B hose from the tank to the engine bay, plumbed up the solenoid and fuel bypass valve in the engine compartment, and wired up the solenoid and new glove box mounted fuel guage (and boost guage). I will post pics of my install when it is all up and running.

Here is my question:

I still need to connect the coolant lines heading to the WVO tank to coolant lines in the engine bay. Greasel provides two 5/8" Tees for splicing into coolant hoses. The trouble is, the only coolant hoses of that diameter are the hoses on the fire wall associated with the heater core. I see a solenoid by the battery and traced the hoses back to a second water pump. So I am assuming all the hoses in this area are only flowing when the heater is engaged? There is one hose coming right out of the block that heads to the firewall, is it safe to say this one is always flowing?

Where should I splice in? Should I get bigger fittings and splice right into the top and bottom radiator hoses?

Also, how do I identify a hose with positive pressure and hoses for returning coolant to the radiator.

I hope to get this project done today, so any input ASAP would be awesome!

Thanks guys, Cassidy

[coachgeo]

Basically same topic going on here at Maui Green SVO Forum

[Fredmburgess]

I've been running my '84 300D on WVO for a couple of years. My system is basically the same as the Greasel setup. For the coolant lines, I put the "coolant out" (hot coolant to WVO tank) tee in the heater hose coming off the back of the block, over the oil filter housing. Return from tank is "tee'd" in right behind the auxilary (electric) water pump on right fender well, across from the turbo. Coolant will circulate through your WVO loop whether you have heat on or not. Flows through the stopped aux pump back into the water pump when heat's off.

Just switched over my "new" 83 SD. Used a 6 port solonoid valve this time so excess diesel returns to stock tank, excess veg oil loops into intake (makes it easier to purge air if you run a tank dry by switching to the diesel side and using the hand pump). I also added a 12V electric fuel pump between WVO tank and the solonoid, switches on when you select WVO. Stock lift pump was having trouble pulling veg oil through the filters.

...I run my WVO through my diesel filter after the lift pump too. Works fine. Boost on both cars turned up to 12.5 psi, Alda opened 1/2 turn. So far so good!

fmb

[Cazzzidy]

Thanks for the info.

I went ahead and spliced in at the two points suggested -- the hose out of the head on the drivers side by the oil filter, and right behind the aux. water pump on the passenger side.

I lost a good bit of coolant during the splicing, but filled again and have no overheating problems. Only problem is, the coolant does not want to flow through the new loop. It made it to the heat exchanger in the new tank, but cant make it back and out to the aux. water pump.

What should I do to get air out of the system?

[Cazzzidy]

Bumpity?

I am thinking of disconnecting the hose at the return connection by the aux. water pump, waiting for water to make it through the tank, out the hose, then wrestle it back on to the T.

Will post results later.

Thanks so much for this post, this is the part I've been mentally wrestling with for days. I'm in Boulder Creek, maybe we could get together sometime? Check your PM.

[ak300td]

I'd really appreciate some pictures showing your system if you can! I hope to be doing the same retrofit in the next couple of months.

Chuck

[Cazzzidy]

I got it to work tonight by removing the hose at the aux. water pump return T and let it ooze a bit. As I suspected, it began to flow after about 30 seconds. After hooking it back up, I went to the trunk and saw full flow through the heat exchanger in the the tank.

My install is totally finished now. I will post pics on monday documenting my install.

I am going out of town tommorow, so I will give you a call on Monday, Jessica.

[unclemark]

So where are these pics you said you were gonna post?

[pselaphid]

[QUOTE=Cazzzidy;637083]Thanks for the info.

I went ahead and spliced in at the two points suggested -- the hose out of the head on the drivers side by the oil filter, and right behind the aux. water pump on the passenger side.QUOTE]

You may discover that on hot days the back pressure from your outlet side will force open the monovalve from that direction (opposite normal flow), and you will have heat instead of AC just when you'd rather have AC, or at least no heat. I put a shutoff valve on the other side of the monovalve and just close it during summer. Took me a while to figure out what was going wrong with the AC.

[math]

Originally Posted by Cazzzidy

Hey guys,

I am almost finished with my second tank WVO install on my 82 300D.

In case any one is interested in doing this project, it is fairly time consuming. I have spent a good four days on my conversion so far. I have built, painted and carpeted a special platform in the trunk that raises the WVO tank to allow spare tire access, I have installed and secured the tank with straps, mounted the large Racor filter to the tank with a custom bracket, ran Greasel's 3B hose from the tank to the engine bay, plumbed up the solenoid and fuel bypass valve in the engine compartment, and wired up the solenoid and new glove box mounted fuel guage (and boost guage). I will post pics of my install when it is all up and running.

Here is my question:

I still need to connect the coolant lines heading to the WVO tank to coolant lines in the engine bay. Greasel provides two 5/8" Tees for splicing into coolant hoses. The trouble is, the only coolant hoses of that diameter are the hoses on the fire wall associated with the heater core. I see a solenoid by the battery and traced the hoses back to a second water pump. So I am assuming all the hoses in this area are only flowing when the heater is engaged? There is one hose coming right out of the block that heads to the firewall, is it safe to say this one is always flowing?

Where should I splice in? Should I get bigger fittings and splice right into the top and bottom radiator hoses?

Also, how do I identify a hose with positive pressure and hoses for returning coolant to the radiator.

I hope to get this project done today, so any input ASAP would be awesome!

Thanks guys, Cassidy

Originally Posted by Fredmburgess

I've been running my '84 300D on WVO for a couple of years. My system is basically the same as the Greasel setup. For the coolant lines, I put the "coolant out" (hot coolant to WVO tank) tee in the heater hose coming off the back of the block, over the oil filter housing. Return from tank is "tee'd" in right behind the auxilary (electric) water pump on right fender well, across from the turbo. Coolant will circulate through your WVO loop whether you have heat on or not. Flows through the stopped aux pump back into the water pump when heat's off.

Just switched over my "new" 83 SD. Used a 6 port solonoid valve this time so excess diesel returns to stock tank, excess veg oil loops into intake (makes it easier to purge air if you run a tank dry by switching to the diesel side and using the hand pump). I also added a 12V electric fuel pump between WVO tank and the solonoid, switches on when you select WVO. Stock lift pump was having trouble pulling veg oil through the filters.

...I run my WVO through my diesel filter after the lift pump too. Works fine. Boost on both cars turned up to 12.5 psi, Alda opened 1/2 turn. So far so good!

fmb

Originally Posted by ak300td

I'd really appreciate some pictures showing your system if you can! I hope to be doing the same retrofit in the next couple of months.

Chuck

Please If you guys would be so kind as to post a picture of the pipe/tee/splice locations as i know where the one is at the rear of the block, but everyone keeps mentioning this aux water pump and under a turbo for the return line...... However, I don't have a turbo in my 300D 1984 so, yeah i'm kind of stuck 3/4 of the way to the finish line in regards to getting my heat exchanger installed.

Oh, i picked up a 60 plate heat exchanger, which should keep me well and truly out of trouble. ( Australia, Brisbane )


0.72Square metre internal surface area of exchange
1Mpa/145 psi max pressure
material 316 stainless steel
1/2 inch threaded connectors

[moon161]

Originally Posted by math

Please If you guys would be so kind as to post a picture of the pipe/tee/splice locations as i know where the one is at the rear of the block, but everyone keeps mentioning this aux water pump and under a turbo for the return line...... However, I don't have a turbo in my 300D 1984 so, yeah i'm kind of stuck 3/4 of the way to the finish line in regards to getting my heat exchanger installed.

Oh, i picked up a 60 plate heat exchanger, which should keep me well and truly out of trouble. ( Australia, Brisbane )


0.72Square metre internal surface area of exchange
1Mpa/145 psi max pressure
material 316 stainless steel
1/2 inch threaded connectors

That sounds bizarrely overspecified. Is that the only heat transfer to the oil? I may be wrong, but my concept of australia has matches igniting if left unattended on the sidewalk for minute. I'd think if it were a cold night, I'd have a dingo sleep on the oil tank.

GregMN posted a link to a page that describes the system he uses in Minnesota US (-20 C or below is a common winter temp). I vote for that link being a sticky.

[math]

well here at the monent we are on the last month of winter and during the night it gets very cold, almost freezing, about 35 or so Farenheight. Then couple in the wind chill factor and it would be well below freezing.

The Choices of Heat exchanger i has was the following

30 plate for $150
60 plate for $182 So, it was a no brainer.

the Oil cannot get hotter than the source which will be 85 degrees C ( 200 F ), but will just spend a longer time within the heat exchanger before it's drawn out to be used, however during the colder times It will be a benefit of having the oil inside the HE long enough to get to it's max temp even though it's all ice outside.


The size of it, dows however make mounting it an issue

I was going to weld together a cradle for it and have it sit between the left hand side of the engine and the wheel well, very far down and have it connected via flat stock/bar steel to the bolts that hold the battery plate/holder as well as the Electronic "ground" connection bolt.

I'm searching for GregMN's post :/ but sadly it's been so long since people were discussing this that 9/10 images are no longer available 404 errors


So, Yes, Australia holds pretty much 75% of the worlds deadliest animals of every variety, it gets extremely hot and cold, depending on where you go.

I've personally been in 47 degrees C, that's 126F. It gets so hot that 2 years ago we had to add new colours to our weather map to signify the heat.....
Record heat forces Australia to add new colors to temperature map | The Verge

Anyways, if you know where GregMN's post is, that would be great. Cheers


and i leave you with this

Australian Wolverine - YouTube

[math]

oh, and yes it's the only "heating" source that i have on the waste/filtered vegetable oil

I'm still getting clogged filters even after filtering to 1 micron :/ Perhaps it's time for a diesel purge.

Edit:

I made a post earlier, but i guess it didn't get through.
Australia, is a country as large as the United States, we too have climates that range from pretty cold to blistering hot....
So much so that 2 years ago we added 2 more colours to our weather map for heat... http://images.smh.com.au/2013/01/08/3937332/art-weather-620x349.jpg

and they say global warming is a conspiracy..... It's only a conspiracy for conservatives that like to bury their head in the sand

Any ways, back to the FPHE.

it was $150 for a 30 plate, or 182 for a 60 plate.... So i went with the 60 Although it will be a bit of an issue to mount...


here attached i have some pictures of interest. The ones where my fing ers are on the 'tube' are the two hoses that i believe i should be tapping into.... ( and i think that they are of 5/8 in size, please confirm for me )

Also, the size of the FPHE i have to use as well as my proposed placement.

With the placement It shall be lower than it is in the picture, I just couldn't get a good shot with it any lower. So, it will be about 3 inches lower so it can slip 1/2 inch closer to the wheel well and keep away from the engine as we don't want them to touch. It shall be wrapped in insulation as well. It's holding/mounting will be via the top bolts and it will be attached to the bolt that also holds the battery plate and the grounding point which is about 3 inches to the left of the battery plate bolt in the picture. I shall be using 1/2 inch thick steel plates for my bracket. I'm just hoping that it's not too heavy for the mounting bolts :/

I'm planning to go

Tank > FPHE > fuel filter > Fuel pump > Fuel Filter > injector pump > injectors

[John Galt]

Melburnians have trembled through their coldest consecutive mornings for 17 years.
http://www.theage.com.au/victo...l.html#ixzz39PF1cREh

And:

Adelaide has woken to its coldest start to an August day in 126 years …
http://www.theage.com.au/victo...20140804-1002ol.html