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  #16  
Old 11-14-2014, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMN View Post
Straight VO should not be used below 160 F.
B100 gels at 40+ F.
I don't know the properties of diesel blended fuel let alone B100/SVO blend.

I don't think you can run B100 in the winter without a heated fuel system. I understand that winter is a relative term. It is currently 8 F here, probably not 8 F there.

So, do it.
Please keep notes and let us know how it goes.
The alt fuel haters agree with that first line if you just add ambient air temp.

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  #17  
Old 11-15-2014, 01:07 AM
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The W210 606 engine is a cool engine to convert. I just got a new one and am going to convert it. I like single tank systems and blend 10% gasoline and 10% diesel and 80% wvo. One question i have is has anyone figured out how to hack the fuel heater thermostat so it stays closed all the time and always heats the fuel? I want to try that. I took one apart one time a couple years ago and it is just a regular thermostat like the cooling system uses if i recall.

Also has anyone tricked the glow plugs into long glow times? I put an elsbett system on a vw once and it came with resistors to put inline with the temp sensor to trick the computer into thinking it was cold when it wasn't. Then when the car started it took the resistor out of the circuit so it didn't throw a check engine light. Pretty clever.
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  #18  
Old 11-15-2014, 09:45 AM
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For $30 or $40 you can go to fattywagons and get a set of electric heaters for your injector lines. They would be better for your situation because they would be adding heat immediately, instead of waiting for the coolant to come up to temp. They are designed for exactly what you want to do.
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Greg
2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO
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  #19  
Old 11-18-2014, 02:38 AM
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I find it costs just as much to build a good biodiesel processor as it does to do a good WVO conversion on a car. Methonal goes boom real easy, I do not like that part. I have made biodiesel and it takes longer to do the titration then it does to filter the oil. I average about 10 gallons a day filtering for the last 5 years.

I have seen single tank conversions and the truly best ones have a water injection system also. A local greaser has a 99 300 turbodiesel it uses the glow plug delay and lower pop pressure injectors FPHE and electrically heated fuel filter. And water injection system. And this is south Florida and he sometimes adds a little diesel to the veg oil so it will start in the morning when it is cold out.

I have tried blending and it does not start right and you have to buy fuel to do the blend, once it is converted it is done. Greg's 07 ML converted to WVO is a work of art!

For those that think blending or single tank conversions are better for around town use. My wife's Jeep CRD is now driven locally more and she is still getting over 100 miles for every gallon of diesel fuel purchased. Her fuel costs work out to about 4 cents per mile. Which is similar to my calculation for an electric car.
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  #20  
Old 11-19-2014, 10:09 AM
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Member John Galt, has been blending for quite some time, and contrary to the moniker, has been giving of his time and experience.
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  #21  
Old 11-19-2014, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMN View Post
For $30 or $40 you can go to fattywagons and get a set of electric heaters for your injector lines. They would be better for your situation because they would be adding heat immediately, instead of waiting for the coolant to come up to temp. They are designed for exactly what you want to do.
Thanks. I think i have a set of those somewhere. But i really don't like the extra electric draw and don't think there are very effective as injector lines under that intake get hot anyway. That's my theory . I haven't really hit them with a temp gun.

But the point is, there is a perfectly good fuel heater built into the car that could be provide good heat if if you just make the theromostat stay open. Extra heat for free won't hurt.

Another great "free " feature is the heated water bottle. I disabled the thermostat in there easily and put a vw tdi filter that fits perfectly in the top. Now i have a heated waterbath for my fuel filter heater.

I've thought about modifying it so I can fill it with fuel instead of washer fluid and run my return line to there . Then I could put an open cartridge type fuel filter like a a golden rod with water separator and seal it really well. That should make for a nice heated system.
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  #22  
Old 11-20-2014, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biopete View Post
i really don't like the extra electric draw and don't think there are very effective as injector lines under that intake get hot anyway.
Not much electric draw.

Ideally, your fuel would be heated before a cold start. These will not do that, but it will get it hot way before the coolant is up to temp.

I have no experience with blended fuels. I do not know what the cold viscosity is of your blend.

The issue with cold straight VO is that it's viscosity to too thick for the injectors to have a good spray pattern.
This leads to unburnt fuel on the walls of the cylinder.
That leads to stuck rings in the piston.
Which means low compression,
And VO getting into the crankcase.

If you have a set of line heaters just lying around, I would give them a try. In my experience, they did add a fair amount of heat and the silicone tape used to install them insulates the lines from heat loss. I don't see a down side to installing them.
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Greg
2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO
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  #23  
Old 11-22-2014, 02:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMN View Post
Not much electric draw.

Ideally, your fuel would be heated before a cold start. These will not do that, but it will get it hot way before the coolant is up to temp.

I have no experience with blended fuels. I do not know what the cold viscosity is of your blend.

The issue with cold straight VO is that it's viscosity to too thick for the injectors to have a good spray pattern.
This leads to unburnt fuel on the walls of the cylinder.
That leads to stuck rings in the piston.
Which means low compression,
And VO getting into the crankcase.

If you have a set of line heaters just lying around, I would give them a try. In my experience, they did add a fair amount of heat and the silicone tape used to install them insulates the lines from heat loss. I don't see a down side to installing them.
I hear you. It's all about the burn. I bought a old rusty 87 td from a guy that had a single tank elsbett system he ran in NC for about 30,000 miles. He didn't even blend it in the winter if he didn't have to. I drove it back to TN for $900.00 . It ran fine and cruised at 80 but it used a quart of oil every 250 miles or so. Me and Ngrover pulled the head and the #3 cylinder had a huge chunk out of it. As predicted he had 3 or 4 glow plugs out.

Glow plugs and injectors are critical for wvo users especially single tankers . I've done the two tank for years in the past and I don't like the mess and loss of trunk space and extra complication. Also with starting and purging on diesel I still used about 25% diesel.

I think 10 to 15% rug blends with cetane boost and an fphe will work fine in the 606 engine. I've done in my previous ones and never had any trouble. But i didn't have em that long. He'res a pretty good read on blending gasoline and diesel. Haven't found any Mixing Gasoline And Diesel . Not much specifics but the gas burns hotter and cleaner it says which means it would be a better blending choice than diesel maybe in a single tank system.

I'm just getting interested in grease and diesel tech again now i have a nice 606 . This person says put the gas in the wvo , WVO Blending with Gasoline to Make Diesel Fuel (biodiesel forum at permies), let it settle a few days and then filter it out -- kind of like instant "biodiesel" . I'm gonna have to catch up.

cheers
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  #24  
Old 11-22-2014, 04:31 PM
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Location: Coldest North America
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I've been running blends of ULSD, biodiesel, UVO, jetA and jetB [stale helicopter fuel], kerosene, and petrol for the past 8 years in a late 80s Toyota TDI engine. The mix varies with operating temperature, but at least 50% is ULSD pump diesel. In the summer I use more UVO and less helicopter fuel. The stale chopper fuel is approximated with 25% petrol / 75% kerosene. The UVO is cleaned using cold upflow and the BD,UVO,jetA-B stock-mix is cold filtered at ambient operating temperature through 5µ as it's pumped into the vehicle tank.

Use a simple viscosity test 'cup' to compare the viscosity of your fuel mix with diesel fuel at the same temperature. Drill a 1/8" hole in the bottom of a 1 litre drink bottle. Cut a 1" hole in the side just below the shoulder. Push the test cup into a container of fuel then lift it part way out out so the fuel level is even with the top hole. Then pull it completely out of the fuel and measure the time to empty. Adjust the UVO-petrol mix until the time is the same as with pump diesel.
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  #25  
Old 11-23-2014, 11:05 AM
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I've converted quite a few W210's with two tank systems (coolant heated WVO tank, lines, filter plus 12V final fuel heater before IP.). I highly recommend disabling the EGR on the turbocharged versions to avoid ring sticking. (links on this site show how to avoid CEL - thanks Cartek et al) Even with "proper" WVO temps before the IP I had severe problems with ring sticking and found others in the US, Europe, and Australia with the same issue. Water injection cleaned things up and eliminating the EGR prevented a recurrence. Only other weak spot with these cars running WVO is the fuel shut off valve which has internal O-ring seals that fail after about 50,000 miles leading to rough starts after sitting overnight from air in the system. Sealed unit so nothing to do but swap in a new one - easy enough especially if you've deleted the EGR/eliminated the EGR pipe from exhaust manifold.

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