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  #16  
Old 09-13-2015, 05:13 PM
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No anti-freeze please. Use blue washer fluid if you need color.

Edit...

I was thinking of the problems associated with anti-freeze in the fuel system. You are not putting anti-freeze through the fuel system, you are putting through the air intake system. So, maybe not a problem.

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Greg
2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO

Last edited by GregMN; 09-13-2015 at 09:17 PM.
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  #17  
Old 09-15-2015, 07:33 AM
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Location: Ft Lauderdale FL
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Anti freeze

Anti freeze was just for a little color I was considering adding some green food die. I am just going to keep driving it until it runs better or stops running. I am pulling for the runs better.

Friday I worked delivering food in the daytime I left the house at 7:30 am and delivered until 4:30pm at 6:00 I was called in to deliver luggage and did not get home until 3:30 am The car was running for 17 hours that day and I drove 350 miles basically around town. The car tells me how far and how long I drive every day! One day it is just going to stop running and never run again, but that will be Okay it is a good car that has made me money and served me well. People say "you deliver food in a Mercedes" and my new response is "and it is really nice".
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  #18  
Old 10-20-2015, 09:32 PM
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Runs better now.

Car is running better I have my wife driving it. It is burning a lot less oil. I removed the veg oil system for the most part I still have to take some of the parts out. It is a slow process.

I was thinking of leaving the Semi fuel filter in and rerouting the diesel fuel to it. Considering the factory filter is over $70 And a good semi filter is $10 and bigger. I would probably be easier to change also.

New price is $4000 if you did not see that in classifieds.

Bob

Last edited by grease lightnig; 10-20-2015 at 09:32 PM. Reason: typo
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  #19  
Old 03-16-2016, 11:11 PM
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Sold

$3200 Car max offered $750. I just left. Local car dealer went up to $2000. Junkyard offered $2000. I placed a new ad that Said $3400 firm and everyone came by and offered $3000 no more. I said no thank you. (to 3 people).

Last guy offered $3000 I said I will think about it over the weekend. I called him on Saturday and said $3200. He gave me cash this is the same weekend a localish Chevrolet dealer got the first of the 2017 Volts in. I got the gray one. I am going 60-65 mile on electric and 20-50miles each day on gas works out to about 75 mpg so far goes down if I go 200 miles in a day. But man is this Volt so much better than my old abused Mercedes. Sorry new is nice. Electric is nice also.

PS I have not been running grease for 6 months and now have 700 gallons of the stuff 150 of it is filtered. Now what do I do with it.
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  #20  
Old 03-18-2016, 02:54 PM
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Check out "OilBurner" on youtube...
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Garage:

2017 Chevy Colorado Diesel (nanny state emissions)
2005 Volvo S40 T5 AWD, 77k
1987 Mercedes-Benz 300D turbodiesel, 4 sp auto, 156k - 28.7 mpg
1996 Tracker 4x4, 2 door, 16v, 3 sp auto. 113k - 28.6 mpg

WARNING: this post may contain dangerous free thinking.
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  #21  
Old 03-24-2016, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grease lightnig View Post
Electric is nice also.

PS I have not been running grease for 6 months and now have 700 gallons of the stuff 150 of it is filtered. Now what do I do with it.
Wow... what a story!!
Electric is nice... I concur with your findings.
Question: Do you think installing a water/methanol system sooner would have saved your CDI?
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  #22  
Old 04-29-2016, 10:06 PM
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NO, I think longer and more consistant flushing. Plus the Common rail heater died. I abused the crap out of it. But made good money delivering in the car. I let my brother use it for 7 month and he would forget to flush at night and then come out and start it in the morning. That was probably it true downfall. I am still not a fan of veggie conversions that need an electric pump.

For example my Jeep Liberty CRD was as simple a conversion as a 5 cylinder turbo diesel i.e. no lift pump needed, yet it ran better at 211k miles then when I got it without a grease system at 72k miles. Needed timing belt every 100k miles that was its only real flaw. And I wrecked it bad. About 140k grease miles.
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  #23  
Old 05-01-2016, 07:56 AM
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That is useful info. Thanks

It has been mentioned that the CDI common rail is difficult to flush completely - so you almost have to burn up the remaining WVO in the CR before shutdown. So shutdown is an inconvenience... and I remember you saying that you had to leave it idling for long periods because of this.

Did you use a CR heater to compensate for this? How did it fail?

Did the Liberty CRD have a 2 tank system? Are you using a mechanical suction pump mounted on the block like the old Mercedes - ?

Sorry for all the questions... you must be sick of it by now.

In my experience WVO requires a serious pump and high quality lines to move it around reliably for years. Even the $500 raptor is problematic: I have replaced bearings, seals, and motors so many times I have lost count. Moving on to a $1000 pump... so yes I agree with you, electric pumps suck

Last edited by kestreltom; 05-01-2016 at 08:41 AM.
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  #24  
Old 05-05-2016, 02:31 AM
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CR heater was an injection line heater and I think it just wiggled to much and died.
The Liberty had a 3 tank system it had two grease tank one was mounted as a spare tire that was not heated and just dripped into the heated tank that was about 5 gallons and was mounted behind the rear passenger tire. It had no lift pump other than the injection pump. Best grease vehicle ever!
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  #25  
Old 05-05-2016, 02:33 AM
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WVO design pumps

I have two WVO design pumps that are much better than the Raptor Pumps. One needs rebuilt the other not sure about but at this point it has been sitting for most of a year.
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  #26  
Old 05-05-2016, 07:57 AM
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Thanks!

Good info on the WVO Desgins pump. I will look into those.

You can pick up a Jeep Liberty diesel pretty cheap these days... Hmmm.
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  #27  
Old 05-05-2016, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kestreltom View Post
Good info on the WVO Desgins pump. I will look into those.

You can pick up a Jeep Liberty diesel pretty cheap these days... Hmmm.

Read my post on CDI purge cycles.
CDI Purge Cycles
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Greg
2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO
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  #28  
Old 05-05-2016, 10:14 PM
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Grease-lightening, sounds like you had a good run with wvo in the Cdi. I'm in a 1999 e300 experimemting with blending. I wonder if even in two tank systems adding 10% gas wouldn't help combustion. Now I have no system and just add 5 gallons of wvo after I fill up to 3/4. I'll go more once it gets hotter. Then I just run straight diesel to purge it every now and then. We'll see how it goes. I'll add a fuel heater probably this summer.

Has anyone run a Cdi on a single tank just blending ?
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  #29  
Old 06-01-2016, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biopete View Post
Has anyone run a Cdi on a single tank just blending ?
Your W210 has an inline pump instead of a common rail.... no?

2- tank systems are great if you switch over once a day and then drive for long distances. They are are not-so-great if you make a lot of stops.

Multiple purge cycles, as in daily stop/start errand running, end up transfering much of your petro diesel over to the WVO tank. The perverse side-effect of this is getting to watch your petro diesel tank level drop while the WVO tank level actually increases

I understand GreasedLightning's frustration with this - thus wanting to leave the vehicle idling instead of purging.

Single tank must include enough heat so the injected fuel atomizes the same way standard petro diesel does. That has been determined scientifically to be around 250 degrees F. Many are satisfied to run WVO at their coolant temperature of about 170 degrees F since the energy to do that is free (not including the cost of heat exchanger, plumbing, etc). Blending WVO with petro wihout heating is something you can do for a while, but over time the injectors with coke up - causing hard starting, smoky exhaust, etc. Also, your steel tank, with the help of oxygen will automatically start polymerizing any WVO in the blend. This will cause a light brownish coating to deposit on the walls of the tank. Over time, this coating gets thick enough to come off in little bits... eventually in big chunks which will plug up your fuel filter - and will require tank removal and detergent/steam cleaning to fix the problem. It will also cause your fuel level sender to stop working.

If you are going to do this, heat the fuel (electric line heaters are cheap and work great) - and in a few years get a backup spare tank, and keep some spare fuel filters in the trunk .

Last edited by kestreltom; 06-01-2016 at 07:32 AM.
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  #30  
Old 06-10-2016, 01:43 AM
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Kestreltom: yeah it is not common rail -- just old school injection pump. If no one buys this car soon , I'll keep it for my son who will be driving in 1.5 years and he can learn to run wvo. Your advice is sound. All wvo users must ensure working glow plugs and injectors. Elsbett from Germany who sells single tank systems and i've put several on my cars over the years always ships with new injector nozzles and new glow plugs. They also extend the initial glow time. If i keep this and blend wvo I'll keep an eye out and we'll change injector nozzles soon as preventive maintenance.

Thanks

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