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  #1  
Old 05-13-2017, 01:16 PM
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Two Tank setup

I have a few questions for this audience, the guys from benzworld sent me over here. I picked up a 81 300D for cheap and fixed everything up runs good (maybe needs some new injectors)

I was doing some research on SVO and WVO and even picked up most of a two tank system from greasecar (dont have the instructions though). The guys over at benzworld say that its destructive to the engine but, other research i have read say that its fine.

Since im currently using it as my DD i dont want to tear anything up.

So, is it really bad for the engine and does any one have the instructions on how to setup that kit?
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  #2  
Old 05-13-2017, 02:06 PM
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I have the Greasecar book for Mercedes. I'll be glad to share it with you. It's a dirty grease stained paper copy.
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  #3  
Old 05-13-2017, 02:09 PM
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That would be great, grease stained or not haha
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  #4  
Old 05-13-2017, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wdschell View Post
I have a few questions for this audience, the guys from benzworld sent me over here. I picked up a 81 300D for cheap and fixed everything up runs good (maybe needs some new injectors)

I was doing some research on SVO and WVO and even picked up most of a two tank system from greasecar (dont have the instructions though). The guys over at benzworld say that its destructive to the engine but, other research i have read say that its fine.

Since im currently using it as my DD i dont want to tear anything up.

So, is it really bad for the engine and does any one have the instructions on how to setup that kit?
You will get every "opinion" under the sun on this issue. For starters your location is not listed and has a good deal to do with it.

There are also a lot of variables that you have not mentioned.
Do you intend to pick up a burger and fries and if they agree to give you a few gallons of oil you dump it in the tank before eating the burger.

Will you be processing it into actual bio-diesel or somewhere in-between.

If it is your daily driver, you for sure need to replace all of your rubber fuel line with material that is compatible with the feed material.

Or in other words, yes it may ruin your engine, or no it may not.

I purchased a 300d that had been run on a two tank system when I got it at 256k on the in operative odometer that seller said it had close to 300k of which he said 50k of that was on WVO.
I put another 70-80k on it no problems other than fuel lines.
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  #5  
Old 05-13-2017, 02:47 PM
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Whoops, hadnt updated my profile yet. Should be fixed now. I dont know much about the WVO other than it needed to be strained for all the particles and what not.

Not sure about all the Bio diesel processing stuff, i would probably just run clean veggie or maybe WVO. I have seen stories about it being bad for the engine and then stories like yours where you rand it just fine. Just trying to get all the info i can
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  #6  
Old 05-13-2017, 07:48 PM
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For WVO - Most important is you have to make sure it has no water in it. That would require the WVO sitting for weeks or months in the California hot sun (80-90 degrees temperature or higher). Or if you can't do that, then you'll need to make a heated barrel to force the oil to settle. The best way is to invest in a centrifuge. That will definitely take out all the impurities. But water is the most important killer to the engine.

After you get a clean wvo stock or just running virgin veg, you'll need to conscious about when you switch over from diesel to veg. Long trips are the best time to use veg because the oil gets heated up fully. If you are making short trips, say less than 15-20 mins, not worth it.


Coking in the combustion chamber is an issue with running vegetable oil. It's gonna happen, and if you do it long enough your engine will suffer from compression loss. I do suggest you consider adding a water injection system to clean out that coking. That would require injection of water every so often while running diesel. This should help in combating this compression loss with the use of veg.

At anycase, you should do research and get familiar with the cons of running vegetable oil and see if you want to risk it.

.
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  #7  
Old 05-13-2017, 11:54 PM
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What kind of heat exchangers were in the parts that u got. I have a frybrid system and have had no problems with the car related to wvo, that being saied, the frybrid runs a final flat plat heat exchanger right before the wvo goes to the injection pump, and the fphe is also the first heat exchanger plumbed into the cooling system and is the hottest. If ur kit only has the hose in hose, heated filter housing and in tank heat exchanger you might want to add the flat plate heat exchanger witch is available from grease car now I believe. It will almost guarantee the fuel is at proper temp for proper combustion.
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Check out my Frybrid Vegtable Oil Conversion at http://1990300dfrybridconversion.shutterfly.com/
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  #8  
Old 05-14-2017, 08:13 AM
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I ran grease,cleaned it well,and bought clean oil too.However even with my injection line heaters,I know I had coking problems.As blowby increased,after a year of strait diesel it went away.If the vehicle is something you want to keep,go with biodiesel.
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  #9  
Old 05-14-2017, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wdschell View Post
I have a few questions for this audience, the guys from benzworld sent me over here. I picked up a 81 300D for cheap and fixed everything up runs good (maybe needs some new injectors)

I was doing some research on SVO and WVO and even picked up most of a two tank system from greasecar (dont have the instructions though). The guys over at benzworld say that its destructive to the engine but, other research i have read say that its fine.

Since im currently using it as my DD i dont want to tear anything up.

So, is it really bad for the engine and does any one have the instructions on how to setup that kit?
I picked up a cheap spare #17 head from a guy that had run it on WVO. Here's how it looked before I disassembled and cleaned it.

Prechambers










Injectors








So if you would like to provide cheap spare parts for others, GO FOR IT

Every MB I've seen thats been run on WVO had a few qualities in common: Terribly hacky modifications under the hood, fuel leaks everywhere both in the trunk and under the hood accompanied by the vile stench of rancid oil and it ran like crap. The owner is usually deep in denial about the condition of the car and he swears up and down that it just needs a little more work to get it dialed in.
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  #10  
Old 05-14-2017, 10:26 AM
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^^^ worst case scenario
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1992 300D "IceBerg"
1984 300D "Blues Mobile"

1978 300CD "El Toro" Gone on to be born again
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  #11  
Old 05-14-2017, 10:54 AM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
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^^^ those pics shows the previous owner neglected to keep up the condition of the return lines. He/she needed to run viton lines to prevent that type of leak.
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  #12  
Old 05-14-2017, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
^^^ those pics shows the previous owner neglected to keep up the condition of the return lines. He/she needed to run viton lines to prevent that type of leak.
If you look closely at the inside of the prechambers, its the same brown crap. It was just slightly more powdery from exposure to heat.
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  #13  
Old 05-14-2017, 11:10 AM
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That's from the dude or dudette being careless of switching over from diesel to veg without the oil being fully heated up. Unless it was run with a single tank system, than you can't avoid that.


.
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  #14  
Old 05-15-2017, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
For WVO - Most important is you have to make sure it has no water in it. That would require the WVO sitting for weeks or months in the California hot sun (80-90 degrees temperature or higher). Or if you can't do that, then you'll need to make a heated barrel to force the oil to settle. The best way is to invest in a centrifuge. That will definitely take out all the impurities. But water is the most important killer to the engine.

After you get a clean wvo stock or just running virgin veg, you'll need to conscious about when you switch over from diesel to veg. Long trips are the best time to use veg because the oil gets heated up fully. If you are making short trips, say less than 15-20 mins, not worth it.


Coking in the combustion chamber is an issue with running vegetable oil. It's gonna happen, and if you do it long enough your engine will suffer from compression loss. I do suggest you consider adding a water injection system to clean out that coking. That would require injection of water every so often while running diesel. This should help in combating this compression loss with the use of veg.

At anycase, you should do research and get familiar with the cons of running vegetable oil and see if you want to risk it.

.

+1 to this very fine advice.


Since diesel fuel also lubricates elements of the fuel injection system, it would be worth it to read about the levels of lubricity of the different fuels used.
Homemade biodiesel, or bio from a reputable source such as commercial filling station, usually has more lubricity than standard fuel from BP or whomever!


The same cannot be said with homemade mixtures of so-called filtered engine oil, turpentine and gasoline, which would be a deadly choice, because these mixes rarely remove the grit and can plug up your filters. Plus they don't have enough lubricity to start with.


There are people who increase the lubricity of their fuel by mixing a quart of ATF (Dexron) or SAE 30 oil with a gallon of diesel, then dump it into the tank. I have done this in the past with good results. Can cut down a little on noise.


Personally, I would do lots of reading on this topic before deciding to make my own diesel or even supplement until I knew all the effects of the mix that I'm using in my fuel system.


Good luck and continue to write if you have questions.
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  #15  
Old 05-16-2017, 02:57 PM
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Arrow

Running WVO right long term is:

1. sub 1 micron filtration of oil along with...
2. complete dewatering -> research heated upflow filtration
3. proper selection of oil (lightly used, non-hydrogenated oils = mexican, thai, japanese NOT pizza joint, fish fry, clam shack, mcdonalds)
4. quick use of oil - research 'polymerization' or proper long term storage in full airtight containers away from open air and moisture
5. proper system and temp: the oil must be AT LEAST 180 degrees at the injectors when being used and completely purged before shutdown.
6. proper maintenance of the engine to begin with. valves, timing, injectors, glow plugs etc. oil changes every 3k.

ive done this for well over 100k (from 150k to 250k on the engine) and my compression is still 380-400 and my injectors look as clean as petro-diesel ones. i personally do not run water injection - but it can be helpful - i just rather do the above steps correctly, and then it is not necessary.

if you are not willing or able to do these things consistently, run petro-diesel or a commercial biodiesel blend. otherwise you will destroy the engine.
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