For those running SVO in a 123
 

Hello,

I'm just about to convert to a two tank system running SVO in a 83' 300D and have a few questions for those of you who have done such a thing. I'm looking for advice on where to run the fuel and coolant lines from the trunk to the engine. I'm also unsure where to splice into the coolant hoses. Also, any other advice or tips/tricks you have would be great. Thanks!

Spend a few hours searching the archives, it's all here:
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=frm&s=447609751&f=159605551

There are alot of different ways to go about this. And the way I did my wifes and will soon do my car is different than most.

My wifes '83 300D is running a 2 tank system on WVO. We live in FL and don't anticipate ever driving it where its cold enough to bother with coolant heating of the fuel tank.

My system consists of a heated Racor filter in the trunk right next to the 2nd tank. The fuel line runs under the car (zip tied to the existing fuel lines) to a 6 port switch. There is also a return fuel line running straight back to the tank. 1 input side of the 6-port valve is connected to the WVO lines and 1 input side is connected to the Diesel lines. The output on the 6-port goes into the lift pump and to the return line.

There is a little mixing of diesel and veggi in both tanks during the switchover from diesel to veggi. Ironically my exhaust smells better when burning diesel with a little veggi in it.

I'd recommend browsing around on the on the biodiesel discussion forums. SVO discussion. http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/ubb.x?a=frm&s=447609751&f=159605551
You'll find as many differing systems and opinions there about SVO/WVO as you will here when talking about motor oil ;)

do a search here for Cazzzidy he just talked about this a week ago

I am part way through my WVO conversion and in the interim am running a 50% biodiesel / WVO blend in the main tank of Fatmobile 3. I am using 2 * 20 litre HDPE drums as fuel tanks in a tray in the trunl. I have a Facet type fuel pump adjacent to the fuel tanks.
I removed the fuel line from my spare parts car and used the mounting brackets from that car to support the additional fuel line to the engine bay. - All Mercedes parts ;)
I am waiting on my plumber, who is making my coolant/fuel heat exchanger.
I have the fuel selection solenoid installed and the WVO fuel filter too. On Sunday, I will install the return line solenoid.
I plan to use the fuel inlet banjo fitting from the IP and the fuel filter bleed bolt, on the fuel filter, connected to the main tank return line.
The fuel filter banjo (3 hose ports) will be used at the IP, fuel inlet, to connect the return lines from the IP and injectors and the fuel line from the fuel selector solenoid.
I plan to put a return line solenoid in the return line from the IP, to connect it either to the loop, or to a Tee on the main tank return line.

To refuel the WVO, I will remove the 20 litre drum from the trunk, remove the cap (with fuel suction line attached) and put the cap on the next fuell drum.
Is this description clear?

Thanks for all the info and links!

So if I understand this correctly I need to plug the hollow bolt at the top of the fuel filter?

It all depends on how you plumb your system.

Greasel recommends it because their system loops the return line when your running on veggi. In this instance you can actually siphon diesel out of the diesel tank though that banjo bolt. But again thats just due to the way its plumbed.

Personally I'd run a return line to your veggi tank. Thats what I have done. First and formost it eliminates the worries about air leaks. Since the air won't be trapped in the line it will run back to the veggi tank. Second the warmed excess oil runs back to your veggi tank. (For me in FL this is enough for me (ie. no coolant lines).
Lastly that bolt is nothing. My valve switches right at the point where the metal diesel lines come into the engine compartment. Unless my vavle is leaking there is no way for diesel to flow when I am switched to veggi.