Joe,
Thanks for the input.

Coach,
You might have somethind there. Thanks to my training in A/C I'm following you.

Peter

__________________
Auto Zentral Ltd.

I'm getting ready to start building a test system. First I'll filter down to 75 microns to get the large particles out of the oil. This is a cold filter to also remove some of the solids as well.

This is dumped into a 35 gallon water heater. Water heater is sealed and turned out to cook out the water. I'm hoping that the pressure relief valve will let the steam out from the water.

After allowing the heated oil to cool sufficiently I'll then open the drain on the water heater to let any standing water and gunk out of the bottom. It will then be filtered down to 5 microns into a 55 gallon drum and allowed to settle for as long as I can manage to let it sit. It will then be siphoned into another 55 gallon drum for storage.

I could possibly rig the water heater to pull a vacuum assuming I don't do something boneheaded like overfill the tank I should be able to just draw it out one of the water heater supply lines.

__________________
'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter.
'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night.

coachgeo,

You idea about drawing a vacuum to lower the boiling point is correct. We used to use it on the supply boats in the Middle East to de-sal salt water. The thing is that it does not save you any energy. You have to pay for the energy to draw the vacuum and raise the temp. The amount of energy used is the same whether you raise the water to 212 deg. or to 180 deg. and draw a vacuum. We had free vacuum and heat off the Diesel engiines on the boats. Even so cost was not a problem.

Technically you are correct. buttt.. For a dumpster diver and water removing tank I was thinking of the vacuum energy coming from cheap elbow grease. As in using a hand/foot pump in reverse arrangement. Dont you only have to pull the vacuum to the desired level and then close the valve on the pump so it holds that level of vacuum durring heating? this would save in dollar/energy cause it would take less heat.

For an onboard dewatering tank I would use engine vacuum. This is what Im thinkging about in my Unimog Camper's on board filtration system (still in the design stages).

__________________
"If anyone knows other lessons I need to learn, please tell me. I'm tired of learning them the hard way".
by JerryBro

The Glow Plug Wait: This waiting period is a moment of silence to pay honor to Rudolph Diesel. The longer you own your diesel the more honor you will give him". by SD Blue

My normal daily life; either SNAFUed- Situation Normal... All Fouled Up, or FUBARed- Fouled Up Beyond All Repair

62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD daily driver- both powered by blended UCO fuels

Coachego,

As you raise the temp. you will loose your vacuum. You must continue to draw the vacuum inorder to remove the water vapor.