I've been reading about replacing these and many say you need to a special tool. It seems you need to take great care that they go in straight when re-assembling. Given the obviously less than cheap labor rates these days, what do you guys think of doing this with an arbor press. Harbor Freight has a 1 ton for 38$.

Frank.

From what I have heard the upper knuckle is in the way for a regular press in situation. If your press has enough depth so that you can weld up a jig which will allow you to press from the other side of the upper knuckle then you should have no problem. You may want some kind of fitting which will keep from damaging the ball or its threaded end when applying pressure. Be sure to share pics if you do it successfully,,, and tell what went wrong if not successfull..... Greg

It has been a long time since I replaced lower ball joints on my 115 chassis MB, but if I remember correctly anything that has a center drive screw will not work because of the upper knuckle being in the way. I had to make up a set which basically is two 1" thick steel bars 3" x 8" with 7/8" holes drilled into each end of both bars (all done at local machine shop which supplied the flat bar-stock) and two 7/8" fine thread bolts (about 8" long---I had to special order from local auto parts store) to pull the two bars together with adapter to push ball joint out and another adapter to push new ball joint in. The ball joints do have to go in straight---or they just won't go in. Your '82 300SD is a different chassis type so the actual length of the bars (and where to drill the holes) would be different. For the adapters, I used pipe of appropriate diameter and cut to correct length.

Hmmmm, I might look into this. I don't mind welding, actually I think it's fun. I'll have to get a closer look as to what tooling might be required. If any of you guys have pictures of what you used that might be helpful too.

I take it the joint must press in from the bottom requiring something to push it out from the top? (My car isn't here at work to look at and I can't remember) If so I'd need something to go over the knuckle and something to secure the arm?

Thanks for the help.

Frank.

If my memory serves me correctly I once installed a set of ball joints in a Gm car in the following manner. (I believe they are similar to the MB type) I put the ball joint through the control arm, placed a piece of about 2 or 3 inch pipe over the top of the ball joint with the bottom of the pipe resting onthe control arm. The top threaded part of the ball joint stuck up through the pipe. I then put some stought washers over the threaded part and resting onthe top of the pipe. I then put a nut on the ball joint and as I tightened it down on the washers resting on the pipe it pulled the ball joint into the control arm.
I believe I had removed the old ones by putting this same piece of pipe over the bottom of the ball joint and then took two pieces of angle iron with holes drilled to accept a couple of pieces of threaded rod and tightened them down with one piece of angle on the bottom of the piece of pipe and the other resting on top of the ball joint. As I tightened the threaded rods the ball joint was pushed down into the piece of pipe.
Cheap, easy and effective as I recall.

Frank;
No welding involved. The balljoint is pushed out from the top and pushed in from the bottom. The two long bolts pull the two pieces of barstock together, and with correct pipe size, the joint is either pushed into the pipe to remove---or pushed into the pipe to install---which side of the joint you place the pipe on is determined by whether you are removing or installing. One size pipe is used to install and another size to remove.

quick idea: why dont instead of spending your time and money rigging somethign up or renting a press, get it to the point where all you have to do is take the steering knuckles to a indy mechanic with the PROPER tool, and pay him 30-50$ to press in your new joints. That way, you know it is done right, and you still save a ton on labor. I had mine pressed out/in for my 300SD for 30 bucks.
just an idea,
Ryan

Ryan, some people don't have competant indy's availble, some don't have competant indy's who charge reasonalble rates, some people like to do it themselves.... if one spent $30 on that tool then the next time it would not cost anything to do that job... but you would be right back spending another $30...or more probably as inflation takes its toll... the third time your up to $100 .... for people who work on old cars and keep them awhile.... it is very practical to buy the special tools for an event that is likely to repeated on a regular basis... or at least they can loan them to their friends....:cool:

you bring up a valid point, however in the original post i thought i remembered reading that he had to rent the press to begin with, so renting wouldn't have any advantages cost-wise. Also, if i remember correctly the actual tool to do this job is almost $300. That seams to be alot to replace components that go bad once every 10 years if that. Just my thinking, to each his own i suppose, and i can definately relate to wanting to do it all yourself, but for me, tearing it down that far and putting it back together was enough DIY for my tastes :D
Ryan

Now that cost has come up: I just checked my machine shop invoice for my rig---"2ea 1"x3"x7" lg blocks drilled per instructions, $32.00"---and "Auto Parts: 2 spec order nuts/bolts---$11.00". Not a bad price for drilling four 3/4" holes into 1" thick metal. (I note bolts were 3/4"---not 7/8" as previously stated). No record of "scrap pipe" cost. Less than $50 total for "Ball Joint Tool".

Ryan, the way I read that original post he was going to buy the arbor press from Harbor Freight...so with that and a little fabrication , welding or not, he has a $300 tool in his tool box forever...:cool:

Originally posted by leathermang
Ryan, the way I read that original post he was going to buy the arbor press from Harbor Freight...so with that and a little fabrication , welding or not, he has a $300 tool in his tool box forever...:cool:

I'm a total DYI'er. I set up my own diffs and stuff, make parts for my 4x4, weld broken parte, etc.... I'm not a great fabricator, but I like to do it 'cause it's fun and I can certainly use the practice. The Harbor Freight press is only 38$. The local metal store is way cheap. I'd love to have the tool for future use (both press and ball joint specific) so I'm going to see about making one. If it's not too hard and I feel I can do a good job on it, maybe I'll make 'em for others. I'm a financially strapped mechanical engineering student and am up for making a buck any way I can!

I'll post some pictures when I'm done. I'll be out of town for a while so I'll probably do this mid August.

Frank.

your a mechanical engineering student???? thats the exact field i'm going to try to shoot for, unless i change my mind :rolleyes: What university are you at, what degree are you pursuing and what career would you like to have? plus, anything else a prospective mec engineer would like to know would be appreciated!
thanks
Ryan

Originally posted by RG5384
your a mechanical engineering student???? thats the exact field i'm going to try to shoot for, unless i change my mind :rolleyes: What university are you at, what degree are you pursuing and what career would you like to have? plus, anything else a prospective mec engineer would like to know would be appreciated!
thanks
Ryan

I'm transfering to San Diego State from Palomar Community college. I start at State this fall. I'm very interested in the mechatronix stuff. I like to build and design things.

I'd say if you are not quite sure as to your major, you can ask your self a few things. Are you a book worm? I don't mean this in a bad way at all, just are you very into theoretical stuff? If so, not that ME is a bad major, there are more theoretical sides to it, but typically it is more of a hands on job. A physicist, Chem E, or even an EE are more theoretical then the ME would normally be. Now even ME's aren't always ME's. For example, my dad is a project manager for an air conditioning company. Basically he's a salesman and an estimator. He doesn't use much of his ME degree but he needed it to get in the door. I'll likely be an R&D engineer and use much of my ME degree in my daily job. I'm a very hands on type of person. I like to make up the prints, make the parts, and see how it all works. If you like to tinker with your car and often see better ways to do something, you'd probably make a good ME and enjoy the job. Like I said though, there are many sides to it. If you go to www.sdsu.edu, you can check out the engineering department and see the areas of specialization. It's quite diverse even within the ME portion.

I've been a tech for years in R&D labs and got to see some different aspects of engineering, electrical, computer, and mechanical. As a result I'm very much sure about the mechanical part for myself. I don't know what you are doing for a job, but if you can get an internship or job with some tech firms it's great experience and really helped me to see what I'd really like to do for a career.

Hope this helps. I might be more helpful if maybe you looked into some areas of specialization (all college web sites will list 'em) and asked me about 'em. If I have any experience, I'll gladly share it!

Frank.

i've always been the hands on/curious type. When i was younger i used to take things apart just to see how they worked(sometimes even if they were not broke, although sometimes they just never got back together right-oops) I used to drive my parents nuts when i'd break a week old toy by taking it apart to "see how it worked". My mom then used to find broken toys at garage sales and i would try to fix them, many times being successfull. I love tinkering with things, and trying to figure out better ways to do things, although i still can't figure out how this spring fits in my computer mouse :rolleyes: My dream job would either be to have a part in a mercedes/bmw race team, or to re-design performance cars like the corvette/mustange etc as part of the svt/slp teams. Hopefully i'll be able to fulfill these, but i dont know which degree i need to have :confused: thanks!
Ryan

You sound like an ME. Check here (http://www.engineering.sdsu.edu/mechanical/academic.html)

Also see a counselor or advisor, they can help you.

Frank.

about a month ago I posted a photo of my home made tool that I used to press ball joints in my 86 500 SE using a 12 ton harbor freight H press. The car handled so much better that I just finished doing the front end on my 81 SD (uses same parts) but this time instead of using the home made tool I used one of the discared upper control arms with the rear bushing removed it fits perfectly over the 126 ball joint and was a breeze to press the joint in compared to my home made tool I will post a photo as soon as my wife loads photo onto computer (something I have not figured out yet.......
William Rogers.....

Excellent! I'll likely be replacing the upper arms so this might work great. Is there a chance that the one ton press won't be able to do the job. I noticed you have the 12 ton press.

Thanks,

Frank

will post photo and discription this evening....pacific time.....
William Rogers.....

here is photo of discarded upper control arm being used to press in ball joint useing 12 ton bottle jack press from harbor freight (about $100.00) I used a varible speed dremmel tool with small sanding drum to clean up the hole the balljoint fits in in the steering knuckle, it must be clean and shiney and oiled well with light oil before pressing joint in.you need to elvevate steering knuckle as balljoint protrudes abot 1/16 inch at bottom when pressed in I used a section of steel pipe slightly lager than bottom of ball joint.
note I used square tubing over press ram and duck taped threads to protect them probably should have taped spindle threads also. The shims at the balljoint end of the upper control arm can be varied in height to press joint in straight,I tilted the control arm a little higher at the back.......will be happy to answer any questions on or off line.......oops! photo in next post.I think you will need at least a 12 ton press as it pretty much took full pressure to get it in ,they are a very useful tool. William Rogers....

photo I hope......William Rogers....

The whole reason for this job being so difficult is because another idiot Engineer had his/her fingers into the pie!
I have yet to see something Non Screwed up because of an Engineer.
Engineers figure out that a engine starter should be placed in the most worst possible place to put it! They are NOT the one's working on the parts they engineer!
Look at any FORD, GM or Chysler product and you see what an engineer screwed up!
The Pressed in ball socket may have seemed like a great way of cutting costs and doing it cheaply - not ever figuring out the someone just may have to replace it some day!

When was the last time any of you readers have ever seen or heard of an Engineer fixing what they designed? Never happen!

I am a welder/designer, I have had to "Re-Design" what "Engineers" have screwed up! 99% of all Engineers have never actually done something beyond their design, it looks great on paper but try to do it in reality - NOT!

An Engineer is the reason why all of us Mercedes owners now suffer! trying to fix their screw-ups!

It does seem that a mandatory time as a mechanic would be smart as a prerequisite for an engineering degree... I am in the process of redesigning half a dozen items on a $2200 Snapper Hydro riding mower that should never have made it into production...
But the MB engineers did a good enough job on so much of the car that they are still here to frustrate us with some of the other stuff... :D

_______________________
I think the resemblance of our vehicle lists is interesting...

1980 240d
1985 f 150
1995 crown vic

The picture of the proper ball joint tool is located here: Ball Joint Press (http://www.samstagsales.com/SirTool/stm_0063.htm ) and the price of the tool is around $400.

However, for those interested in doing the job properly without spending *any* money on a ball joint press can do the following:

1. Prior to doing any work on the MB suspension, please read my lengthy post about safety by searching this site with the keywords "easley spring compressor"

2. Rent this tool for free from Autozone. Typical Generic Ball Joint Press (http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/in_our_stores/loan_a_tool/steering_suspension/ball_joint_press.jsp)

3. Remove the springs and steering knuckle

4. Press or drive out the old ball joint (if no press, drive out with a drift and a very heavy short-handled hammer).

5. You will intuitively figure out how to use the press properly to ensure no damage to the ball joint (note: you must be a medium-level DIYer or beyond to do this procedure).

Richard Easley
Waco, Texas

http://www.samstagsales.com/SirTool/stm_0063.htm This tool would be relitively easy to make, the cups might present a slight challenge as I can see or don't know their exact demensions, but I bet I could come pretty close.

I don't know how many of you have ever made your own adapters or jigs or templates, but I have.
I made a engine stand, unlike any other ever made. I got a piece of T-1 1/2" plate steel and then marked out the pattern for a small block chevy on one side (edge) and then flip over (same side) and marked out for small block Ford, then drilled holes and tapped out for corresponding Ford/Chevy block bolts. Then welded the T1 steel plate to a 1 1/2" Chrome pin. (special way to do this without warping and also special way to weld it)
This pin then was mounted in a chrome 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" bushing which was then welded to my stand. A small child can easily turn a complete 350/400 chevy motor and the motor stops where ever you want and stays put. (I have access to this steel and vbery cheaply - stand cost me less than 35 dollars) I am used to welding 3/16" to 4" thick steel. Certified Welder/Designer.

Speaking of steel and "engineers" these brain ball engineers designed a cab out of 3/16" steel but Never allowed for the thickness on the corners/bends. The drawing looks great on paper and the blue prints. So consequently me and another welder had to redesign what some very highly educated with over 15 years of experience Engineer monkeyed up!
Engineers have obviously never been sprayed with Hot Hydraulic oil (I have) and so the designed the high pressure hoses to rub against each other - I was the one that redesigned that mess up too on a knuckle boom loader.

Assuming that your lower control arms are similar to those for a 126, the old joints are driven out from the bottom. A typical press won't work because of the way the control arm is cast. I made a tool to remove the lower ball joints whci barely worked. Rent one from Performance Products

Hey,
I agree with Easley. I just did this job about 3 weeks ago. First I soaked both joints twice a day with PB Blaster. I used a 3/4 socket and a 2lb sledge hammer to remove old ball joint. I hit each one about five times and they came right out. Didn't even have to hit them too hard. I padded the vice with rags and it didn't leave any marks on the spindle at all.

I removes the rubber boot from the new joints and put them in the freezer overnight prior to instalation. cleaned ball joint seat and applied a little light oil and used the $0 press from AutoZone to press them in.

The only thing about the Autozone press is it presses directly on the ball not the seat. And the "accessories" that came with the press are useless. But you gotta figure with all the weight on these joints a little pressure from a press isn't going to hurt them.

I bought a ball joint splitter for the upper and stearing knuckle joints which I was glad I had.
I used a pickle fork on the lower ball joint which was a PITA. I really wished I had bought the MB tool for that part.

here's a tutorial that you can use:
Click Here (http://207.210.95.34/~boostd/FrontSuspension/balljoint/)
I rested the control arm on jackstands too. I borrowed a Snap-on spring compressor but it didn't fit. :(

Danny

No one has mentioned that the control arms are aluminum and the ball joint will come out, and go in a lot easier and without damage, if you heat the aluminum to expand it. And chill the new ball joint in the freezer.