|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Uh Oh Rust
Well it seems i have more rust on my car than I thought... these spots on the front rocker panels below the jack stands are very troubling. Think they can be fixed? If this car hadn't been in the family since new I might give up and find a rust free body but given its history I am going to fix it... somehow
The Trunk has one small hole and under the battery tray is just surface rust so they are getting the POR15 treatment. Not sure how to handle the rockers though. As far as I can tell this is all... the floorboards are perfect Any suggestions or words of encouragement This is behind the rear door on the driver side Drivers Fender Trunk Under Battery Tray |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
eeeeewwwwwww!
nothing that can't be fixed, but not fun.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
I have similar rocker panel cancer plus some floor board rust.
Fortunately, the PO included a set of new rocker panels in the sale. It's my goal to get them swapped out this winter. My rust is pretty superficial, though. It doesn't appear to have gone any deeper than the rocker panels. Your second pic from the top has me a bit concerned as it looks like your frame is affected. Is that the case?
__________________
1974 240D "Boldie" 170K.- New timing chain/freshly rebuilt IP/replaced valve seals/injectors/upgraded stereo/new Bilsteins with Yokohamas/fresh paint and rocker panels plus lots of welds. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Yeah, my car (the 82 300D) is suffering as well. Be sure and look over those floorboards real well. If you've had any water leaking, it will tend to pool inside the car on those floorboards and cause additional rot. Poke around with a screw driver to test structural integrity. I've sanded and POR15'd quite a bit, after every winter, but honestly there are nooks and crannies where it will hide and grow, and it has. Another thing I'm going to try before the nasty salty road season comes is to coat the bottom with an oil like Fluid Film, it is lanolin based and supposed to help.
Good luck! -Chuck
__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1982 300D, anthracite grey, 260k miles, Greasecar 1999 E300D, black, 160k miles, Greasecar 2010 Honda Insight Hybrid http://www.chuckwyatt.com http://www.wordimpressive.com |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Might want to pull up the carpet and check your front seat belt mounts. I've seen pictures here where they pulled right out due to rust in that area; apparently they're supported by tubes that go into the rocker structure. Kinda hard for the belt to do its job when that happens!
__________________
1981 Mercedes 300TD, 1994 Honda Civic Del Sol http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/67195.pnghttp://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/103885.png Last edited by Orv; 07-29-2011 at 01:15 PM. Reason: Fix typo, "just" instead of "job" |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Wow, that kinda lets the wind outa your sails, I know it did when I started probing more into my car. Your car has low miles, has it always been a southern car?
__________________
1984 300D, 228k, Light Ivory, Java MB-Tex |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
That stuff on the rockers has been going on for a long time. I would cut it back quite a ways so that you can look inside and treat whatever surface rust is in there. Then weld or bond sheet metal back. Use POR15 and fluid film/waxoyl inside
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
My front fenders suffer the same malady as yours. I was going to try to find some rust-free China blue fenders but I believe the fenders were still being glued-on on my '80 so I'm thinking POR-15 and some of their mesh is probably going to be the solution. I've also go a couple spots on the firewall (driver's side and under battery tray) and one rear fender lip. Not the ideal fix, but good enough for my far-from-perfect TD.
While yours looks daunting, it's nothing some steel and a welder can't fix. It's surprising given how good your car looks in pics.
__________________
1980 300TD-China Blue/Blue MBTex-2nd Owner, 107K (Alt Blau) OBK #15 '06 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (for the wife & 4 kids, current mule) '03 Honda Odyssey (son #1's ride, reluctantly) '99 GMC Suburban (255K+ miles, semi-retired mule) 21' SeaRay Seville (summer escape pod) |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
You can get replacement sills (I think you guys are calling them rockers!) over here with the jacking point. They cost from about 150 euros a side here for a replica part... I wonder how much they cost at the dealer... does anyone know?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Quite. Bonded is probably a better term. I believe prior to '81 they were sprayed with an undercoating material before the fenders were installed. To remove the fender you need to heat the edge to soften it while trying to pry it up at the same time. Needless to say after coming across this tidbit, my desire to swap the fenders diminished. I will keep this in mind for any future W123 purchases as well!
__________________
1980 300TD-China Blue/Blue MBTex-2nd Owner, 107K (Alt Blau) OBK #15 '06 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (for the wife & 4 kids, current mule) '03 Honda Odyssey (son #1's ride, reluctantly) '99 GMC Suburban (255K+ miles, semi-retired mule) 21' SeaRay Seville (summer escape pod) |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
Fenders / wings on a W123 have a bead of sealant type glue on the inside joint at the inner wings. I think they stopped adding this sealant after about 1981 - someone's gonna have to verify that though! Later W123s have extra plastic front wheel arch lining bits... do a search for chad300tdt's spring pocket repair thread and you'll see a picture of them.
To remove the sealant I used a craft knife / Stanley knife and a load of patience. It takes a bit of time and you need to be careful not to knacker either the outer or the inner wings whilst you do it. It took me about an hour on each side to get my wings off intact.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
An old aircraft mechanics trick to keeping the interior of chromoly steel aircraft frames rust free is to spray it with ATF. I have never tried it myself. Nowadays, most people powder coat the air frame of a "tube" aircraft.
__________________
08 R320 CDI current Past 95 E420 87 300D Turbo 5spd 90 300TE 83 300SD 85 300TD 92 400E 85 190D |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
My old '83 SD had strictly bolt on fenders.
__________________
08 R320 CDI current Past 95 E420 87 300D Turbo 5spd 90 300TE 83 300SD 85 300TD 92 400E 85 190D |
Bookmarks |
|
|