I have a W123. I got a quote of $450.00 to prep, primer, and paint a hood and 2 fenders. They panels are rust free and need zero body work. They have been chemically stripped down to the electro coating from the factory. It was "fuzzy" if that included reattaching them to the body. I also have an AMG air dam. I also want the engine bay stripped own and re-painted.

What would be a fair price for this work ?

Stripped down to the e-coat? That doesn't sound right. I would like to know how they could be "stripped down to the e-coat." I cannot imagine how you go strip down just to the e-coat.

Something sounds funny here. I think the price is great--perhaps too good.

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2010 Toyota matrix
"cash for clunkers" took the van (at 18 yrs, 270,000mi)

'93 500 SEL
A bad addiction. Takes all of my cash.

'01 Chevy Prism
Made in my favorite auto plant--and easy to fix!

Depends on the type of paint and quality + skill.



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True. You left out the poll option for "it depends". For poor quality materials and workmanship, 450 would be a ripoff. OTOH, if you're getting good materials and workmanship, 450 for prepping and painting two fenders and a hood is pretty good.

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83 300D Turbo with manual conversion 325,xxx miles
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Poor quality is a ripoff if it is free. Poor work tends to accelerate rust.

I just wonder if the panels "stripped down to ecoat" are actually poor quality knockoffs.

__________________
___________________________________________
2010 Toyota matrix
"cash for clunkers" took the van (at 18 yrs, 270,000mi)

'93 500 SEL
A bad addiction. Takes all of my cash.

'01 Chevy Prism
Made in my favorite auto plant--and easy to fix!

I stripped the panels down to the "e-coat". I used one gallon of this stripper from Lowes Home Improvement. Called Lasko (I think) Gold can. This stuff is great but I would not want it on me for a second. So, to clarify. I am presenting the 3 panels stripped down. The paint person is painting them, e.g., primer, top coat, and then clear coat. The deal is for exact paint match. So, sounds like $450 is a good deal.

Here is the hood down to the ecoat

Attached Thumbnails

 

IMO that is a good deal.



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Hood is probably down to the primer surfacer, not the ecoat. Ecoat is usually darker, with a slightly greenish tinge to it--if I am seeing the picture correctly. I have one qualification, the areas I thinking are bare metal could be white, silver, or another light colored topcoat. I cannot really see it that well from the photo. If those areas are a light colored paint and not bare metal, then my comments below are incorrect.

If you look at the areas where the hood is sanded to bare metal, you see a darker area around the sanding area. That darker area is probably the ecoat. This is actually an advantage. The primer surfacer's main function is to protect the ecoat from UV and to provide a sandable surface. Untouched ecoat is best.

Spot prime the bare metal with non-sanding primer, spray a sanding primer if you feel it is necessary over the whole part, then topcoat. It should work quite well.

Whether my comments above are correct or not, I agree. This does look like a good deal.

One piece of advice: if that ends up being ecoat, get it out of the sun. I have seen ecoat chaulk with only 8 hours of sunlight. Bisphenol A epoxy has very poor UV resistance.

__________________
___________________________________________
2010 Toyota matrix
"cash for clunkers" took the van (at 18 yrs, 270,000mi)

'93 500 SEL
A bad addiction. Takes all of my cash.

'01 Chevy Prism
Made in my favorite auto plant--and easy to fix!

No, its ecoat (Whatever that is). And, based upon the responses, I am going fowarded. For another $50.00, he is going to paint the AMG chin and everything gets bolted up. He's been doing this for about 20 years and very well respected fender guy. THANKS everyone !

Ecoat is the first primer that is on the body. Its primarly purpose is to prevent corrosion.

Primer surfacer is the second primer placed on the body. Its primary purposes are to protect the ecoat from UV light and give a sandable surface for appearance purposes on the assembly line.

Unfortuately, the picture resolution wasn't high enough for me to see the details when I expanded the light sections of your picture.

This is important. If the panel has primer sufacer on it, then the exposure to sunlight is not critical. If the panel had the ecoat exposed, then you may have a serious problem.

Ecoat has absolutely no UV (ultraviolet) resistance. In other words, it cannot tolerate sunlight. The UV component of sunlight causes it to chaulk. Chaulking causes delamination. If it has chalked, then you will have delamination issues later. I've seen ecoat chaulk after 8 hours in sunlight.

I do know what ecoat is. I used to work for the manufacturer who invented cationic ecoat.

It would be preferable if the primer surfacer is still on there. Actually, it would have been better if the panel hadn't been stripped unless there was some serious damage to the topcoat, or there had been numerous (+5) coats on top.

If those light spots are to bare metal, you are probably ok. I see a darker ring around the spot that is probably the ecoat. In most manufacturing facilities, the primer surfacer is shaded lighter than the ecoat. Sometimes the ecoat is shaded black to make the differentiation. (Black ecoat is common on Japanese made Toyotas. Shinto Paint likes to make their ecoat formulas black.)

Just trying to save you some trouble later. If you get ecoat delamination, the only cure is taking the panel to bare metal. That is a toxic, unnecessary mess you will not want to mess with.

__________________
___________________________________________
2010 Toyota matrix
"cash for clunkers" took the van (at 18 yrs, 270,000mi)

'93 500 SEL
A bad addiction. Takes all of my cash.

'01 Chevy Prism
Made in my favorite auto plant--and easy to fix!