I reused the old glass. Had an auto glass shop do it. They didn't even mention the possibility of it breaking, though a few of the bigger auto glass places did, but they seem to always say that.

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1980 300D, 128K

The defroster would really be nice considering where I live. I don't use this as my primary car, though, so I could probably live without it. If I could find glass without the defroster for $200-300, as opposed to a window WITH it for almost $2000, I would definitely learn to live without it.

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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

I pulled 5 rear windshields from a bunch couple of 420 and 560 SELs, although I only needed one.. Not a very hard thing to do if you just take your time. Being they were parts cars I didn't care if I damaged their interior panels since the cars were going to be leveled. All the glass came out clean including their gaskets. No marks or damage to the gaskets or trim. I needed to have my US 380's glass replaced so I called a local installer chain to do it. He did get the glass, seal and trim in nicely but in the process of pulling and seating the gasket he punched himself in the face twice "closed fist" it was the funniest sight...

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"Why operate within the law when you can operate above it?"

MB roster
'85 500SE euro Ratrod
'92 500E's x2 / '94 E500 stored
'91 560SEC w/43K stored
'92 Cabby 16V OE 2.1 AutoX car
JDM RHD cars now.

my defroster did not survive the seal replacement. would be nice to know if i can rehook that up without taking out the window....

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1980 300D, 128K

That's encouraging. I know where there's another one in a parts car if mine breaks. Maybe I'll go for it.

__________________
" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

Why would that be? Does the rust penetrate into the metal to the point that you can't grind it all off without grinding a hole into the body? Besides that, aren't welds pretty susceptible to rust themselves?

__________________
" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

Well usualy their is no metal left. The right way to fix bad rust is to cut it away. If you grind it, it does come back...or you run out of metal to grind.

I just sent Brian the part number for the metal piece below the rear windsheild on the W126. They are cheap like $75, and when I bought mine Mercedes only had like half a dozen left in stock, period. So if you plan on having W126's for awhile it wouldn't be a bad idea to get one or two just in case.

I figure if I never use it, I'll sell it for $200 when Mercedes doesn't have them anymore.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

If I can get all the rust I can see off of it, treat it with something like POR15, prime, and paint it good, I think it will last as long as I need it to last. There are limits to how far I will go on certain projects.

__________________
" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

Yeah I tried to treat mine a few years ago...its back. Now I'll either fix it for buy one of Brians with a CA body.

I love CA cars!

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Hello
I just joined the forum. Two years ago, I purchased a 500 sel, 1985. The rear windshield had the usual leakage problem, with rust under the seal, etc. You see the picture. I had a body shop remove the windshield and repair the rust, etc. At least, I paid for it...
Now, I realise that they botched the job: they filled the metal part below the windshield with putty or plastic, rust has come back big time, and to make matters worse, when they put back the windshield in place, they somehow stressed it I suppose and a major 18 inch crack has appeared in the windshield. So I have to replace it.
So back to square one!
Hatterasguy, what is the part number for the metal piece below the rear windshield that you refer to in your message of Jan. 14, 2009?
With a bit of luck this time, I might find it at Mercedes, or somewhere else, and have the proper repairs made this time.
All the best

Bump for Citsaab, as I am looking for the same thing.

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1985 300SD - 167k miles
1992 F350 7.3 (Soon to be converted to 2 tank Veggy/WMO)

I just had the rear window removed on my 1983 300sd and can confirm the importance of this job. There are several rust holes along the outside edge of the window frame where it turns horizontal towards the trunk - if you see what I mean.

Luckily the bottom frame piece itself - where it fits into the rubber seal - is largely intact and needs only very minor welding and grinding.

For Canadian members Speedy Auto Glass sourced a new rear window for $395 including removal and installation. They had the old window out in ten minutes. The new part is a laminated window with the same style of defrost wires as the original - but made in China. i hope it fits OK!

The car is now off to the body shop to have the rust dealt with......

On a W126, remove the glass, gasket and trim all at the same time. The trim is easily bent, and then difficult ( if not impossible) to get it back into the groove in the weatherstrip.
I got mine, intact from a Junk Yard donor.

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

..and you don't need a pro to remove it either. Just undo the heater each side. Lay on the back seat with your stocking feet on the glass at the top near the center and push the glass out. Pop! it's out in 10 seconds and as long as no moron has used silicone on the rubber to hide the rust in the rear panel it lifts straight up with rubber and chrome. Installation is just as easy.
Part number for the rear panel is A126 647 04 01