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  #31  
Old 04-25-2005, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
all of the abover are surely true. the most important thing on an older benz is caulking the front and rear windwhield with black silicone to keep water out of the body areas not designed to deal with water.
happy benzing.
Actually pulling the rear windsheild and installing a new gasket while taking care of any rust is the proper way to go about this.

Same goes for the front.

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  #32  
Old 04-30-2005, 10:48 AM
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Location: Lafayette Indiana
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caulk

sure changing the gasket is good but expensive and the shop will not guarantee not to break the windshield. also i have found that even after a new windshield is installed sometimes the seal leaks and caulking is still in order.
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  #33  
Old 04-30-2005, 11:18 AM
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R Leo,

Actually I live where road salt is used liberally, Northern PA. I just don't use the good MB in the winter, I have a beater MB for the winter. Bought it as a parts car 6 years ago and it is still going 65,000 miles later.

P E H
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  #34  
Old 04-30-2005, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
sure changing the gasket is good but expensive and the shop will not guarantee not to break the windshield. also i have found that even after a new windshield is installed sometimes the seal leaks and caulking is still in order.

Gasket cost me $80+$30 for the MB sealant. The rear windsheild can be done in your driveway in about a day, depending on if you find rust. For the rear windsheild you need to chaulk the gasket in order to get it to seal. In the manual they give you the part # for the chaulk.

The W126 at least does not have a gasket up front, a seal is made with the sealent that is used. If you have glass coverage your insurance company will probably cover the windsheild if it is pitted. When I had mine done the guy said if it leaks bring it right back and he will fix it.

My concern with running a bead around the rear window is that water will probably get behind it causing more rust. That is already a rust prone area on these cars.
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  #35  
Old 05-01-2005, 06:33 PM
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dieselarchitect
 
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Location: Lafayette Indiana
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caulk

i used to caulk both sides of the gasket. i now only caulk the glass/ gasket side. i dont think the rubber/ body side actually leaks, ordinarily.
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #36  
Old 05-01-2005, 10:55 PM
84 240D Euro 5sp
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Brunswick, GA
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Rust treatment

I've had pretty good luck with Ospho -- available at automotive paint shops & sometimes parts stores. It is a clear, watery green, and is phosphoric acid -- did a bunch of rust on a 55 Chevy with it, and it held well. The trick is to let it dry well ...... And, it's inexpensive -- maybe $8 pint.
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  #37  
Old 10-15-2005, 11:15 PM
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Unhappy Darn

Darn, the last few posts to this thread where lost.
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  #38  
Old 10-15-2005, 11:42 PM
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Location: Rio Ancho, Dibulla Colombia
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I have used this

rust stopper....

http://www.therustdoctor.com/index.html

I need to do more work but it did a great job so far on rear molding holes under trim...
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  #39  
Old 10-17-2005, 12:18 PM
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por-15

I have used POR-15 on two of my vehicles. I coated the entire frames. It seems to work very well. It looks like powder coating. I got it from http://por15store.com . They seem to know what they are talking about and I like their forum. A lot of my questions get answered just by reading it.
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  #40  
Old 10-17-2005, 03:57 PM
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Am currently working on a couple of spots in the rear foot wells. My sawzall is the current tool of choice for stopping rust. I was using a cut off wheel on the angle grinder but eesh...the noise, the sparks, the smoke....The sawzall is much kinder and gentler...
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Last edited by whunter; 07-15-2008 at 10:45 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #41  
Old 10-17-2005, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stayalert
Am am currently working on a couple of spots in the rear foot wells. My sawzall is currently my tool of choice for stopping rust. I was using a cut off wheel on the anglke grinder but eesh...the noise, the sparks, the smoke....The sawzall is much kinder and gentler...
Rob--In about three weeks mine is going to get the sawsall. Right rear lower quarter panel and rocker panels. When it is done it will never see salt again. Winters will be spent in my heated shop.
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  #42  
Old 10-17-2005, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. R. B.
Rob--In about three weeks mine is going to get the sawsall. Right rear lower quarter panel and rocker panels. When it is done it will never see salt again. Winters will be spent in my heated shop.
SHHHH!!! You want my car to hear you??? Between you and I (looking over shoulder to insure car isn't listening) Once I get this car road worthy I'm afraid I won't be able to take her off the road for Winter....If its any concellation I may not get her roadworhty in time for this Winter
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  #43  
Old 10-17-2005, 10:01 PM
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I just need to register the 300SD and get her a new battery tomarrow. I should have this thing sorted out in a week. (may need brake work) The SDL is coming off insurance as soon as the trans/driveshaft project is done. Then I will winterize it and slip her into the garage until April.

I think I will tailgate the salt truck with the SD. Let it rust, let it rust, let it rust! (to the let it snow tune)
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  #44  
Old 12-05-2005, 07:48 PM
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Hmmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy
I just need to register the 300SD and get her a new battery tomarrow. I should have this thing sorted out in a week. (may need brake work) The SDL is coming off insurance as soon as the trans/driveshaft project is done. Then I will winterize it and slip her into the garage until April.

I think I will tailgate the salt truck with the SD. Let it rust, let it rust, let it rust! (to the let it snow tune)
In the late 1970's, when radar guns first hit the road, there where several cases of police near salt spreaders getting stupid speed readings = 128 MPH to 180 MPH.
A smart person figured out it was the salt leaving spreader generating the numbers.
My car is a daily driver; but that does not mean I want it peppered by salt projectiles.
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  #45  
Old 12-05-2005, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter
My car is a daily driver; but that does not mean I want it peppered by salt projectiles.
But my car is a beater that I don't care about! I don't want to wax it so I will not wash it for the next six months and let the dirt protect the paint. I'll get a pic in march the SD is black now but by then should be cool shades of white, gray, and brown.

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