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  #46  
Old 05-02-2008, 06:03 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: High on a mountainside, near Salt Lake City.
Posts: 556
What about Rustoleum?

I Can hardly believe Rustoleum doesn't even get mentioned. I had good results with it on wrought Iron fencing. It still looks great after 5 years in the sun, nightly dew, sometimes with salts and acids in it, since this was So. Cal.

Is there some reason it won't work on cars? I ask this because it's a lot cheaper than POR15.

I just discovered the spare tire well in my 240d has been banged from the bottom, and has surface rust on the inside. The little rubber plugs were missing, so I imagine every time the car gets driven in wet weather water comes, in but because of the dent, it takes a long time to dry out again.

I'm gonna do a little straightening to the sheet metal, use some sort of rust stop where the undercoat was scraped away, then ruberized undercoat over that. But for the inside of the trunk I had planed on using the same rustoleum I used on my Aunts fence. It's satin black, so looks close to the original finish.

I also dicovered some rust in the rear seat footwell that is starting to rust through. I planed on using the POR15 floor repair kit for that.

I'm getting started soon. I also have some bubbling paint where the side trim clips are. I'm going to try and repair those, and hope my paint hasn't faded so much that I end up having to paint the entire car. I did just by an aerosol can from my local Dupont paint supplier, to do my hubcaps, and it looks like a pretty close match.
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  #47  
Old 05-02-2008, 06:58 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Vancouver WA
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I have just finished a large rust repair/proofing job on my 240D that included surface rust treatment and cutting out and welding of patches where the rust had gone through. During the job I used rust bullet, POR-15, Waxoyl, and Spray-Galv.

Most of the rust proofing was dome with POR-15. It sticks to skin quite well so be careful. I found the POR-15 application very time consuming with the cleaning with marine clean, etching with metal ready, rinsing of metal-ready, drying and applying 3 coats of POR-15 with 3 hours between coats. Although you are supposed to be able to paint directly over rust I still wire brushed the areas before applying it. Even with all the prep-work and following the instructions to a “t” I still had some problems with pealing and non-coating of some areas. The stuff will go on nicely, but while it is drying it seems to tend to thin out in some areas leaving holes in the coat, which is why several coats are needed.

I just used a tiny amount of rust bullet, so I don’t have too many comments about it.

Some of the welding work was in the passenger compartment side of the rocker panels. The rockers are coated with an anti-corrosive coating and waxy coating from the factory. To prevent contamination of the welds I removed these coatings in the area of the repair prior to welding. On the inside of my rocker patch and in any areas with overlapping metal I used spray-galv to as a rust treatment. It is also sometimes called weld-through primer, however I would not apply it within ” or so of the weld bead area. It is 90-something % ultra-fine zinc powder with a bonding agent and is supposed to equal hot-dipped galvanizing in rust prevention and can withstand a good amount of heat. I then sprayed Waxoyl into the rocker panels to replace the factory wax coating.

Out of all the products I used, the spray-galv seems to be the best if it works as well as it claims. I am doing some tests with both it and the POR-15 to see how they stand up over time.
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  #48  
Old 07-16-2008, 08:15 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Alton Bay, NH / Yuma, AZ
Posts: 188
Here's my $.02 worth.

I have used Rust Mort from SEM Paints. Supposedly converts the rust by some chemical process.

Here's a link I just found to some rust chemicals.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/rustremove.aspx

Bert-NH
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  #49  
Old 10-22-2009, 12:16 PM
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Posts: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
Avoid salt.

Also axle grease is a great way to prevent rust before it starts. A healthy coat on jack points seems to do wonders.

Yep, I've got the frame rail covers on my 190e...they don't prevent rust but they hide it quite nicely! Long story short, I was replacing the head gasket and I jacked up the car a bit to make it less backbreaking. My front driver's side jack point made a strange crackling noise...

I made sure to fill up my jack points with petroleum-based anti seize paste (has a brush applicator that made it quite easy). If people do this from the start I think it will cut down drastically on jack point rot.
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  #50  
Old 10-22-2009, 01:12 PM
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My old SDL is now in retirement in FL; snow whats that?
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  #51  
Old 10-24-2009, 06:54 PM
C Sean Watts's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: NC
Posts: 1,317
I like Ospho...

because it doesn't matter how it goes on - brush, spray, pour, dip....followed by my own version of waxoyl. (substitute light mineral spirits for turpentine.)
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  #52  
Old 01-26-2010, 11:43 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 101
Professional Rust proofers? "Rustcheck" etc..

What do people think about a professional spray on rust proofer, like Rustcheck..rustcheck.com/

I'm looking to get an early 1970s MB which (hopefully) wont have any rust on it. However, I'll be driving it in the spring summer and fall where it will rain (Toronto) - and likely not in the winter, although possibly. What can I do to PREVENT the rust from starting?
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  #53  
Old 04-26-2010, 08:08 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 545
Rustcheck is great

Rust Check is a great product - just go to a shop that applies it liberally.

You need to let your car drip-dry for a couple of days before washing it. Best applied annually in the fall. I used it on both our Benz's (Cam's garage on King St E) in Toronto before moving to BC. It's not common around here but Canadian Tire sells spray cans of the stuff.

Last edited by 300sdToronto; 04-26-2010 at 08:10 PM. Reason: add info
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  #54  
Old 04-28-2010, 12:01 AM
JamesDean's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 4,440
How do we feel about using the Ospho to convert whatever rust we have to iron phosphate and then use POR-15 (multiple coats) to prevent future rust?

How do we feel about applying POR-15 on top of an undercoating that already exists?
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  #55  
Old 04-09-2011, 04:47 PM
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Posts: 8
I've got a bit of jackhole surface rust on two of them, but none anywhere else.

Should I just order this and take it from there.

http://www.por15.com/SUPER-STARTER-KIT/productinfo/SSKB/
Attached Thumbnails
Rust stoppers.-imag0026.jpg   Rust stoppers.-imag0027.jpg  
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  #56  
Old 04-09-2011, 05:37 PM
whunter's Avatar
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by petron5000 View Post
I've got a bit of jack hole surface rust on two of them, but none anywhere else.

Should I just order this and take it from there.

http://www.por15.com/SUPER-STARTER-KIT/productinfo/SSKB/
Yes..

Perfect size for your need.



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Old 04-09-2011, 05:37 PM
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