I Can hardly believe Rustoleum doesn't even get mentioned. I had good results with it on wrought Iron fencing. It still looks great after 5 years in the sun, nightly dew, sometimes with salts and acids in it, since this was So. Cal.

Is there some reason it won't work on cars? I ask this because it's a lot cheaper than POR15.

I just discovered the spare tire well in my 240d has been banged from the bottom, and has surface rust on the inside. The little rubber plugs were missing, so I imagine every time the car gets driven in wet weather water comes, in but because of the dent, it takes a long time to dry out again.

I'm gonna do a little straightening to the sheet metal, use some sort of rust stop where the undercoat was scraped away, then ruberized undercoat over that. But for the inside of the trunk I had planed on using the same rustoleum I used on my Aunts fence. It's satin black, so looks close to the original finish.

I also dicovered some rust in the rear seat footwell that is starting to rust through. I planed on using the POR15 floor repair kit for that.

I'm getting started soon. I also have some bubbling paint where the side trim clips are. I'm going to try and repair those, and hope my paint hasn't faded so much that I end up having to paint the entire car. I did just by an aerosol can from my local Dupont paint supplier, to do my hubcaps, and it looks like a pretty close match.

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1979 240D, 4spd manual, Power Sunroof, manual windows, 147k miles, Pastel gray/Black MB Tex.
1991 300D 2.5 - Smokes like it's on Crack!

I have just finished a large rust repair/proofing job on my 240D that included surface rust treatment and cutting out and welding of patches where the rust had gone through. During the job I used rust bullet, POR-15, Waxoyl, and Spray-Galv.

Most of the rust proofing was dome with POR-15. It sticks to skin quite well so be careful. I found the POR-15 application very time consuming with the cleaning with marine clean, etching with metal ready, rinsing of metal-ready, drying and applying 3 coats of POR-15 with 3 hours between coats. Although you are supposed to be able to paint directly over rust I still wire brushed the areas before applying it. Even with all the prep-work and following the instructions to a “t” I still had some problems with pealing and non-coating of some areas. The stuff will go on nicely, but while it is drying it seems to tend to thin out in some areas leaving holes in the coat, which is why several coats are needed.

I just used a tiny amount of rust bullet, so I don’t have too many comments about it.

Some of the welding work was in the passenger compartment side of the rocker panels. The rockers are coated with an anti-corrosive coating and waxy coating from the factory. To prevent contamination of the welds I removed these coatings in the area of the repair prior to welding. On the inside of my rocker patch and in any areas with overlapping metal I used spray-galv to as a rust treatment. It is also sometimes called weld-through primer, however I would not apply it within ¼” or so of the weld bead area. It is 90-something % ultra-fine zinc powder with a bonding agent and is supposed to equal hot-dipped galvanizing in rust prevention and can withstand a good amount of heat. I then sprayed Waxoyl into the rocker panels to replace the factory wax coating.

Out of all the products I used, the spray-galv seems to be the best if it works as well as it claims. I am doing some tests with both it and the POR-15 to see how they stand up over time.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Here's my $.02 worth.

I have used Rust Mort from SEM Paints. Supposedly converts the rust by some chemical process.

Here's a link I just found to some rust chemicals.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/rustremove.aspx

Bert-NH

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1979 300SD 83k miles Astro Silver Metallic/Black leather #3447
1990 350SDL 202k miles (3L engine from an 87 300D)Black/Grey leather
2006 Pleasure-Way Class B MoHo (Sprinter chassis) 134k miles
2005 E320CDI 270k (car is sooo fast - I can't believe it's a diesel!!!)

Yep, I've got the frame rail covers on my 190e...they don't prevent rust but they hide it quite nicely! Long story short, I was replacing the head gasket and I jacked up the car a bit to make it less backbreaking. My front driver's side jack point made a strange crackling noise...

I made sure to fill up my jack points with petroleum-based anti seize paste (has a brush applicator that made it quite easy). If people do this from the start I think it will cut down drastically on jack point rot.

My old SDL is now in retirement in FL; snow whats that?

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

because it doesn't matter how it goes on - brush, spray, pour, dip....followed by my own version of waxoyl. (substitute light mineral spirits for turpentine.)

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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine)
Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi!

What do people think about a professional spray on rust proofer, like Rustcheck..rustcheck.com/

I'm looking to get an early 1970s MB which (hopefully) wont have any rust on it. However, I'll be driving it in the spring summer and fall where it will rain (Toronto) - and likely not in the winter, although possibly. What can I do to PREVENT the rust from starting?

Rust Check is a great product - just go to a shop that applies it liberally.

You need to let your car drip-dry for a couple of days before washing it. Best applied annually in the fall. I used it on both our Benz's (Cam's garage on King St E) in Toronto before moving to BC. It's not common around here but Canadian Tire sells spray cans of the stuff.

How do we feel about using the Ospho to convert whatever rust we have to iron phosphate and then use POR-15 (multiple coats) to prevent future rust?

How do we feel about applying POR-15 on top of an undercoating that already exists?

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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k

I've got a bit of jackhole surface rust on two of them, but none anywhere else.

Should I just order this and take it from there.

http://www.por15.com/SUPER-STARTER-KIT/productinfo/SSKB/

Attached Thumbnails

   

Yes..

Perfect size for your need.



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ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/