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  #31  
Old 07-27-2005, 06:42 PM
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And some more:















Attached Thumbnails
W126 The HORRORS - Rear window RUST!! Help!-57270007.jpg   W126 The HORRORS - Rear window RUST!! Help!-57270008.jpg   W126 The HORRORS - Rear window RUST!! Help!-57270009.jpg   W126 The HORRORS - Rear window RUST!! Help!-57270010.jpg   W126 The HORRORS - Rear window RUST!! Help!-57270011.jpg  


Last edited by whunter; 02-27-2011 at 10:32 PM. Reason: attached pictures
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  #32  
Old 07-27-2005, 06:52 PM
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Now I don't feel so bad about fiberglassing the holes in my 300TD...
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  #33  
Old 07-27-2005, 07:34 PM
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Most of the repairs are sheetmetal pieces cut to fit the holes, then JBwelded in and then more JBweld to create a smooth hard surface on top of the metal pieces....worked very very well, the "new" areas are extremely strong!
Attached Thumbnails
W126 The HORRORS - Rear window RUST!! Help!-57270012.jpg   W126 The HORRORS - Rear window RUST!! Help!-57270013.jpg   W126 The HORRORS - Rear window RUST!! Help!-57270014.jpg   W126 The HORRORS - Rear window RUST!! Help!-57270015.jpg  

Last edited by whunter; 02-27-2011 at 10:33 PM. Reason: attached pictures
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  #34  
Old 07-27-2005, 07:42 PM
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I would remove that large rock from the rear deck......a big enough pothole might bounce it into the back windw and break it......................







but seriously....looks good. you did grind away all rusted metal first...right?
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  #35  
Old 07-27-2005, 09:02 PM
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Good work that should buy you a lot of time. The new gasket will help too, the softer rubber will seal better.
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  #36  
Old 07-27-2005, 10:54 PM
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Yes we ground away all of the rust and then treated it with the "rust converter" primer stuff before we went ahead with the reconstruction. The new gasket is in a bag in the garage

As for that rock We were using it to hold up some of sticks holding things in place while it dried....
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  #37  
Old 07-28-2005, 08:31 AM
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good for you. Reproves the old adage "if you think you can, you're right. if you think you can't, you're right."
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  #38  
Old 07-29-2005, 09:05 AM
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Nice workmanship, and I have seen some fiberglass rust repairs that lasted decades but I do think that this is false economy. MIG welding is really easy and can be cheap also. I do understand that sometimes you just have to go with what you have. Remember this next time you hear someone complaining about unseen problems in a used car they just bought.
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  #39  
Old 07-29-2005, 10:35 AM
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vent holes

I noticed that you filled the tiny holes that alow the cabin air to pass though to the trunk. I just went outside to look at my 83sd . I layed down in the trunk and looked up under the spot where the pinch wield is and there are small holes, very small, maybe 1/64 th, { don't know the metric conversion} across the whole area. They run from the left to right maybe one every inch or so. I asume they are for ventalation. steve 83sd
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  #40  
Old 08-08-2005, 01:42 PM
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I don't think those are for ventialtion, the trunk can vent behind the rear seat very easily... They're probably paint-drip holes.


Current Update: Window being installed at glass shop this very moment!

Later on I am putting in my dad's new stereo system and sirius tuner too, then we will put all the trim/seats back in, and then its set!
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'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
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  #41  
Old 08-08-2005, 09:41 PM
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Good Job!

Hey pawoSD, that really does look good. That JB weld is really tough stuff and I have no doubt that it will work. I think also that it is very creatative and shows great thinking. And I think that almost all your repair will be covered with the new window gasket. Again, good work!
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  #42  
Old 08-09-2005, 02:22 AM
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We ended up having to leave the car there overnight after the guy had been working two hours on it....he's having *fun* trying to get the chrome all on properly. He said "I haven't worked on one of these in quite a while...." It will be done by noon tomorrow though, only 10 hours away! The glass and gasket are both in and good though, its just the chrome that needs to be finished. Then I'll work on the sound system......and putting everything else back in.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #43  
Old 08-09-2005, 01:22 PM
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Here are some other similar fixes I bookmarked prior to repairing my trunk rust. Some look like pretty good work, while others . . .

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/over62.html

http://buickperformance.com/qtr.htm

http://www.cirkut.com/bug/week26.html

http://www.ehholden.com.au/garage/garage3.htm

http://members.visi.net/~kohout/bodywork.html

http://www.ramva.org/dragenwagen/heaterchannel.html

http://www.stuttgartperformanceengineering.com/gastankarticle.html
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  #44  
Old 08-09-2005, 01:35 PM
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Nice work

pawoSD...I'm impressed. What looked like horrors a couple of weeks ago turned into a good fix. Ideally having it welded would be the way to go, but the JBWeld will hold for years.

Hats off to you on making the best of a bad situation.
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  #45  
Old 08-09-2005, 06:47 PM
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The chrome shouldn't be that hard to get in. I hope he knows that you put the aluminum strips in the gasket while it is out of the car.

First the gasket goes around the window, then the aluminum strips go in. Next you wrap string around the gasket and soap everything up. Put the window in and pull the string out as you work the gasket around the lip. Then you shoot the MB sealant around the inside of the gasket and the outside to complete the seal.

It took me maybe 2-3 hours to get the enitre job done, and this was the first window I have done. I can do it in half that time now.

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