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Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Do It Yourself Links & Resources > Bodywork - Repair, Paint, Tools, Tips & Tricks

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  #16  
Old 01-06-2006, 10:45 PM
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Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
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Thumbs down Yes, don't do it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiskeydan
Has anyone ever tried muriatic acid to remove all the rust, neutralize, treat then repair?
For grins I put it in an acid bath, forgot it and came back a day later to maybe 10% of a wrench.
It was used on one of my cars, the body died of terminal rust in a year.
The body shop bought me a complete good used body, to replace the one their experiment wrecked.

Note:
This was in South Carolina = no salt.

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  #17  
Old 01-06-2006, 11:23 PM
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Location: North central Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter
It was used on one of my cars, the body died of terminal rust in a year.
The body shop bought me a complete good used body, to replace the one their experiment wrecked.

Note:
This was in South Carolina = no salt.
Wow! I guess there's no stopping it.
But, don't that shiney acid etched metal look nice. For a few minutes...

I have a spot of rust below the 'once leaking' brake master cylinder on a 300D. Its only on the surface at this point but its a tough place to get at. I had thoughts of acid treatment then touch up. Maybe media blast might be a safer bet.
No salt here either so, when I see rust, it bothers the heck out of me.
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  #18  
Old 01-07-2006, 08:07 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Sturgis, MI area
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Finished!

I got all the Bondo work done, and put a liberal amount of 3m Rubberized undercoating on all outside surfaces, except for the side, which I painted with primer, till I get it painted come spring.


I'll try and post pics tomorrow afternoon or Monday. The electric heater continues to run in the trunk with a blanket over the top of the car......
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Ahh the smell of Diesel Fuel, it's like coffee in the morning!

My Car:

1982 300SD Turbo Diesel (231,500 miles!) RIP

1984 300SD Turbo Diesel Custom (235,500 mi on driveline.) - On Road!!

www.icsrepair.com

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  #19  
Old 01-14-2006, 07:05 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Sturgis, MI area
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Still no pics of the bondo work....

But, It rained tuesday, the trunk was soaked again! Must be the trunk seal.

The local glass place said that they'd pull the window and change the gasket and reseal for $75 labor. BUT, they don't think they can get the seal. I can get it for $52 from Rusty Cullens (***************) so I will just get it there myself.

I trust this glass place as a friend of mine is the manager.....

When I take it, should I ask to watch so that I can see if there is body damage underneath the seal? If there is damage, how much is a serious amount?

I'd attempt it myself, as I have full glass coverage with a $0 deductable, but I am worried that the window might not seal up for me.
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-Matt

EPA Section 609 Certified MVAC Technician
-----------------
Oil Burner Kartel Member #10

Ahh the smell of Diesel Fuel, it's like coffee in the morning!

My Car:

1982 300SD Turbo Diesel (231,500 miles!) RIP

1984 300SD Turbo Diesel Custom (235,500 mi on driveline.) - On Road!!

www.icsrepair.com

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  #20  
Old 01-14-2006, 07:45 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 1,590
We just finished the rust damage yesterday on my 1983. All rust damaged areas were chopped out with cut off wheels and new steel was flanged and spot welded in place. Major pieces purchased new include both rocker pannels and right-rear quarter pannel. Many pieces were hand made and welded in place including portions of the rear inner fender wells, right rear floor pan, lower right front fender, lower corners on both doors drivers side, and the lower front portion of the left front fender. She is sanded and ready for paint sometime next week. All pieces installed are structurally and cosmetically correct. NO bondo for my baby. My bodyman and I started this job two days before Christmas. I earned this car.
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  #21  
Old 01-14-2006, 08:28 PM
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Location: east Tennessee (southeast USA)
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How do you take those trunk panels out without damaging them? I would like to remove mine to be sure that I do not have rust in there. My car has always been a southern car, but it does have trunk moisture, so now I am concerned.
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  #22  
Old 01-14-2006, 10:51 PM
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Diesel & John Deere Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Sturgis, MI area
Posts: 849
Take off the taillight buld retainers, then just work your way around the liner and pry it out. other than one push dart down by the taillight assembly, it is just a pry in fit.

__________________
-Matt

EPA Section 609 Certified MVAC Technician
-----------------
Oil Burner Kartel Member #10

Ahh the smell of Diesel Fuel, it's like coffee in the morning!

My Car:

1982 300SD Turbo Diesel (231,500 miles!) RIP

1984 300SD Turbo Diesel Custom (235,500 mi on driveline.) - On Road!!

www.icsrepair.com

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