I have a few small rusts spots, one ipod sized one under the rear window, and another about the size of a pencil eraser under the rear emblem. For the rear one, I plan to dremel it and use some filler and then use some touch up paint. For the other spot I'm a little more confused.

Is there a way you can just tape off that part, sand the rust, put in filler and then paint it and add clear coat. My fear is that there would be this one rectangle where the paint would look a little better than the rest.

Will it be noticible? If its not noticible I guess its not a problem. Assuming it is a problem, or if I were to rectify my ignorance on the matter, what would people normally do in situations like this.

Don't forget to check under the paint around the rust spots. It may look okay but it could keep creeping in if you don't catch it.

Decent primer is good idea too. Match depends on color, black is the easiest to match and light yellow probly the toughest.

Yea, that is the problem. It is that that beige color. Its a lighter color.

That is very true. You will be surprised how far back the rust goes, maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch larger than the rust spot depending on the size of the spot. Keep chipping away the paint with an exacto blade until you reach clean metal then prime and paint.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

What kind of car are we talking about. If its a W126 with a large rustspot below the rear window you have issues.

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it looks like he has an 82 300d
John

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Taping it off will definately cause it to stand out and be noticable! The whole idea behind body/rust work is to blend in the repair. By taping, you cause a blunt, sharp edge to the repair area. I would not suggest using any masking while grinding/removing the rusty area because you will need to take the grinding as far as needed to get it all. Once you have got it ground out then priming the bare metal and filling in the area and feather sanding to blend it into the untouched area would be your next steps. Fill, sand, prime. Fill, sand, prime. Fill, sand, prime... you get the idea!

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Dale

See, that was my original thought, but that would mean applying paint on the edges of where the sanding ends and that means a uneven distribution of paint, and then an uneven distribution of clear coat. That seems to sound like it will end up looking horrible.

I would carefully tape off the area at the very edge of where the old paint ends prime and paint until the new paint level is just below the original paint then clear coat. It won't be perfect, but it will look better than a rust spot.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

My local hardware store upon inquiry stated that certain faded colors can be perfectly matched by their color analyzer. Your is one of them. Just take a sample like the gas filler lid in to scan. Remember to get all the rust off in the areas you are repairing anything less is generally a very temporary effort. Also the reason for the travel away from the site by the rust is caused by the non waterproof primer mercedes used back then I suspect. Once the finish is broken the moisture just seems to travel a little under the still sound paint.