I am going to remove that black (plastic) molding on the trunk lid right below the 300E emblem. It runs horizontally just above the license plate.

How is it attached to the lid? How do I remove it?

There is a bit of rust right above this trim piece and I would like to use POR 15 on it and then paint it. It serves as a salt water catcher and after all these years, rust has finally started.

If my description of this piece is not accurate, I can take a picture of it.

Thanks.

I wouldn't mind knowing. I actually bought a replacement piece, but never had it installed. There are two sort of , what would you call them, knurled studs that somehow press into the sheet metal. I asked the body shop guy if he knew how to handle this and he said sure. Clearly not obvious how it's done.

Steve

Had it off the 400E when we painted it but can't remember exactly how, but would guess that after you take the trunk lid liner out, you will probably see nuts that have to come off.
Steve,,, I always look at the new piece if we have one and it will almost always show me how the old one is attached. We do that with new front bumpers all the time to determine quickly if the headlights have to come out or not.

__________________
95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K
07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K
02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K
05 F150 Silver 44K

Thanks, Steve and Pete.

It looks to me that that thin plastic piece would just pry out but I want to make sure so I do not break it.

Since I have you on this. It looks like I have to remove another plastic piece that fills in and around the license plate. This is the piece that the 1986 - 1990 models do not have. I took a look the inside and it seems it is riverted in. Or it could pressed in (plstic plugs) but the base hardware might be riveted in.

Those little things are so confusing to the casul body DIYers.

Wish I could find the piece, but it's buried somewhere in mini-storage. I guarantee there are no nuts. I thought it was some sort of press fit. The stud things are a fairly large diameter and tapered. The threads look sort of like an easy out. The diameter is around 1/2 inch.

Steve

I'll take a hard look at the 400 tomorrow and see if I can come up with any exact answers.

__________________
95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K
07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K
02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K
05 F150 Silver 44K

Thank you guys in advance.

I know these pieces are not that expansive but finding them (part number, etc) is a hassle. It is better not to break them.

I have the two volume chassis manual for the W124 but it did not mention this at all.

The 400 has the filler panel below that moulding that has to be removed first,,,, I don't think your 300 has that filler.

__________________
95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K
07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K
02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K
05 F150 Silver 44K

Thanks, Pete.

My 300E also has that filler panel. It started on the 91 models.

It just unclips, right?

YEs, there are little spring clips that go over little stubs at the bottom of the deck lid. Once you get those off it should pull down out of there. Once that is out of there the rest should be apparent,,,, I think.

__________________
95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K
07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K
02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K
05 F150 Silver 44K

Thanks, Pete.

Will tackle this once I get the POR-15 and paint in.

Just finished repairing the little rust on the trunk lid. The rust was actually caused by the screws/holes that molding bolted to the trunk lid. Bad design. These bolts were not even zinc plated. The two hex screws at the ends were severely corroded. The other bolts (secured to the molding) also had rust. I had to spray rust converter to the bolts and replaced the two hex screws.

I had to remove the trunk liner first. Broke a few plastic tabs but did no harm because it went back tight afterwards.

The filler panel was also very strange and I think there are several designs in the W124 chassis. Mine were held by 4 screws behind the license plate. Then many thin hair-like tabs sliding (from the top) into the metal hardware on the bottom that was riveted to the trunk lid. I spent a lot of time on this and was convinced that they put the panel in the hardware first and then riveted in in assembly. I had to break all these think tabs. The panel was supposed to lift up from the hardware but there was no room above it. I used a little double-sided tape to put it back but it was really unnecessary because there were 4 screws holding on it.

I think the replacement panel would require different mounting (plastic plugs, etc).

Anyway, once all pieces were removed, I can see where the rust started. They all started around the bolt/screw holes. I removed the loose rust and used POR-15 first, then touch-up paint. It was in the 70's today here in Michigan so everything dried up quickly and I was able to put everything back before lunch time.

When I was waiting for the POR-15 and paint to dry, I also replaced the 4 font sway bar bushings. I re-used the screws so the cost was only about $10. I got the bushings for a little over $2 per piece. That clunking noise I completely gone now.

Thanks everyone.