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  #31  
Old 04-20-2007, 08:47 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5,277
rchase, I agree with you. I spared no expense on my like new 83 300D, and had a top notc experience. It is the character and economy of operation, noit cheap purchase and cheap repairs that make these cars to my liking.

I do not mind sinking good money into my cars, and will do so as necessary. I fel gipped and made a stupid mistake here, but the rest of the car looks so darn good, that it is a shame that thsi issue is ruining it.

Im actively looking into the correct structural repair...

JimSmith's son did it, Ill see what I can do.

Jim - the wheel wells are very solid. Other than the one picture I posted, there is nothing else wrong with them, even the inner edge of the outer sdheetmetal, where they tend to rust. I prodded them all the other day when I first found this rust, and they were solid. Today being a very nice day, I checked them even more - pressed harder, tapped, prodded with a screwdriver, etc. They are indeed very solid, excpet that one spot!

Thanks,

JMH

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #32  
Old 04-20-2007, 08:51 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
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Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5,277
Quote:
Originally Posted by rchase View Post
YYou can't have your cake and eat it too. Your going to have to do "something". Trashing a car that runs well and looks presentable and is a good driver over rust (which you have not even looked at the extent of) is really silly.
It is a great runner and great driver. Very smooth and everythiung inside and above the rust is like new. Any other blue like new parts I can take from my 83 that is ruined.

When I say that it isw worthless - if I let anyone know of this rust, they would potentially be scared to buy it. I view its as such, and thus my donedness previously. After additional proddint today, I can tell that the subframe mounting screws are in solid metal, and that things arent terribly horrible, though they do look quite poor (lol, that doest make much sense, does it?).

Fixing I wil likely do. Request some cash back? Ill try for that too, this will cost me $$$.

I wonder if I can weld in a whole new half-floorboard...

JMH
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #33  
Old 04-20-2007, 10:45 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 163
I see a lot of threads on here about rust. My 79 240d has a decent amount of rust, and although I don't like it, its not the end of the world. Those same rear mounts are rusty on my car, my rockers are all rusted up, rust on the floorboards, in the back, on the wheel well...man, now I'm depressed. Anyway, I am going to treat what I can with POR or some similar product, patch, and paint. It won't look like new, but hopefully will look decent. When your car is nearing 30 years old, and used daily, rust is going to happen. It would be nice to see a sticky or something covering "definitive rust repair" or similar. There are probably a lot of people like me with some rust, but no welder or enough money to have a body shop professionally deal with it.
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'79 240D 4 speed manual 105k miles
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  #34  
Old 04-20-2007, 10:56 PM
Abandon the Roads!
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 283
Actually, rust is not just "going to happen". If you hate rust, move to Texas!
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1984 300DT turbo 138k mi

Still hauling me to school and back.

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  #35  
Old 04-21-2007, 09:24 AM
Bruce Kennedy's Avatar
Glutton for punishment
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cincinnati Ohio
Posts: 230
Quote:
Originally Posted by rchase View Post
Yes your right 300D's are quite common but with the biodiesel craze and owners that have a disposable cheap attitude like you do they will become less and less common. You can't have your cake and eat it too. Your going to have to do "something". Trashing a car that runs well and looks presentable and is a good driver over rust (which you have not even looked at the extent of) is really silly. While you might have alluded to the fact that I talk to my cars (which I do!) your solution to your problem is just as emotional because you feel ripped off. Why take it out on the car? If your truly interested in your financial stake in the car why not run the numbers and accurately determine your best position rather than being dramatic and emotional?

Its really a shame that decent cars end up in the hands of not very decent owners. If you want a soul less cheap to maintain reliable car go buy a Honda. Many Mercedes owners out there truly love their cars. Any older MB represents the years of service visits and repairs that an owner has sunk into a car well above its financial value. One of the reasons why no one looks bad in an older Mercedes is because of the care that many Mercedes owners lavish on their cars regardless of their age. Face it nobody likes a cheapskate.
Refering to someone as a "cheapskate" because they dont want to spend thousands on a $1500 car is irresponsable. Put your money where your mouth is. I'm sure that JMH would gladly accept what he paid for the car and then you can save it. While your at it I've got a couple of 300D's sitting at the farm that I have been using as donor cars (so that others might live). They are pretty well stripped down to the chassis, but they are still fixable. To show my compassion for this just cause, I'll make you a hell of a deal.
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  #36  
Old 04-21-2007, 11:13 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 5,358
Here's a quick estimate for you. 20-30 hours of labor. Removing the seats, carpeting and disconnecting all the wires and vacuum lines leading to the trunk. Tarping the dash and roof liner areas. Tarping or masking the doors. Cutting out ALL the rusted areas back to "clean" metal. Body floor pans from a donor (more labor involved going this route) or new. 14 gauge sheet metal formed to replace the side supports. Weld in the new/old floor pans and side supports. Grind and seal the seams. Coat the floor pans with rustproofing. Reinstall the carpeting and seats.

30 hours shop labor at about $65 an hour = $1950.00 plus about $300 for new pans and sheet metal (used can be anywhere from free to about $100.00), $100 or so for incidentals.

If you do the "grunt" labor and have a welding shop weld in the pans (strongly recommended) you can get it in good shape for about $500.00.

I wouldn't recommend using formed sheet metal to replace the pans in your case because your subframe mount area has rusted away.

Your call. I personally don't think the car is worth it but what do I know? I just did this on a '72 250C which was worse than yours. Why? Because my wife loves her car and I like to sleep at night.
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  #37  
Old 04-22-2007, 01:05 PM
Hatterasguy's Avatar
Zero
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Milford, CT
Posts: 19,318
Quote:
Originally Posted by arew264 View Post
Actually, rust is not just "going to happen". If you hate rust, move to Texas!
Or just store the car in a heated garage all winter.

They only rust if you drive them in the salt, avoid the salt, keep it clean and the body will last forever.

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