Just a report on what may have helped resolve the water leak in my '84 300 SD's trunk. Rust is getting worse, so I need to deal with that next. However, I used some clear RTV around my rear window seal on the advice of jbaj007. When applying the RTV I noticed an opening/deterioration on one spot in the seal around the window (and I liberally filled that with RTV). Just in time b/c we got lots of rain over the past 2 days. So far I do not see water accumulating or wet spots in the trunk where I used to. I will hope for the best. Was a very painless fix, if its fixed....

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

Good catch.

Danny,

If the window seal has been leaking long enough to cause rust in the trunk, you've probably got some rust under the seal.

If you are considering this car as a long term keeper, it's best to pull the window, repair the rust and install a new seal.

Jim

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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

Do yourself a favor & remove all RTV ASAP. It has a high acid content & will rust out the metal you have applied it to over time. If you want to seal a leaky window get the MB sealant in a tube or use some latex caulking without silicone. DAP makes a black latex caulking that seems to give good results without rusting out metal. Home Depot carries it. I have used it to seal a back window in my 82 300SD and also a tail light that was leaking. It also cleans off easily when you get around to doing a proper fix. If you can get the tip under the rubber seal you can run a lilberal bead under the seal, then clean off the excess with a damp rag before it sets up.

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82 300SD 202K
82 300SD 233K
83 300TD 340K
82 300TD 98k euro (parts on the hoof)
85 300TD 282K
83 300TD 197K

OK, Thank you all for the advice.

Dan

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

I`ll give you a big 10-4 on not using RTV Silicone. I have heard from
more than one Glass shop that it will promote rust.

Pull out the window and replace the gasket, and while it is out take care
of all rust issues. RUST NEVER SLEEPS, it`s like a cancer.
Like said above, depends if you want to keep the car long term or not. I
had rust problems on my 123 and I dug into it in depth.

I used Jasco paint remover to strip out all the old paint, sealant etc...
then used POR metal ready to disolve the rust, used POR Paint to seal
the metal real good. also used thin fiberglass pieces soaked in the POR
paint to lay over the flange along the bottom of the window to keep water
from getting between the two spot welded pieces.
If this damed thing rusts again, I give up.

When I had the window put back in, the guy put it in dry, said MB does
not use sealant. It rained the next day and the trunk was wetter than
before.
I used a 3M sealant the glass shops use, it`s a Urathane in a caulking
tube, about $14.00. I ran a bead under the rubber starting from the top
down the sides. so far dry as a bone, it`s been 14 months so far.

Go to a glass shop, they will just remove and replace, and when you pick
up your car it will look wonderful. but the rust will still be there, they
don`t care.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I have to agree with all of the posts above. I just wanted to add that the rust on the outside might look harmless and I had the same issue with a little water in the trunk and moisture getting in the glass, so I put the job off. I pulled the window last august and the window shop found a mess. About 500 dollars later I had the seal and body work done. Oh, and find a window shop that has had prior experience with the window you have. I had the original shop say they could do it and they made a mess of the job, spent a week longer than they quoted, and told me they couldn't do it. I had to have another shop clean up the mess. A lesson learned.

Good Luck,

DK

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1983 300sd 253,000 + 13,000 (10,000+ on veggie and biodiesel)= 266,000
1983 300sd 390,000 (Leaky windshield seal) Known to me as the shower car. Parts car now!
1 junk 300sd Watch out for the skunk that lives underneith it!

Thank you all, my car's rust is on my mind now big time - and its wet season.... I DO want to keep this car.

From what you wrote, Doug and Charlie, I ought to remove the window myself, take care of the rust, and then bring it to a shop to put the window back with the proper seal, etc.?
Some details I need to work out - my garage can barely hold my car and I have done all my work outside thus far. Won't be able to be the case for this one - I will need to be inside.

Charlie - we are practically neighbors! I live less than an hour south of you!

Dan

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

If anyone wants it I have the part number for the rear window sill itself. $80 from the dealer, have someone weld it in and that should take care of 90% of the rust under there.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Sure, I would happily take that number when you get the chance. Thanks.

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

One other question - since I run WVO, I have an auxiliary tank in the trunk. Am I going to have to remove it in order to adequately repair the rust problem? I suppose it depends on where the rust is and I would rather take care of it all now... Its just that removal of the tank involves draining it of WVO (no biggie) and flushing my radiator (which should be done soon, anyway). However, it is a bigger level of effort to get that tank out than to leave it...

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

Sure, tomarrow when I sobor up enough to look for it!

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

part # 126-647-04-01

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1988 Toyota Camry Wagon......CRUSHED
1988 Porsche 944.......SOLD
1984 300SD.....SOLD
1995 Honda Civic DX... Totaled 11/13/08
1991 Madza Miata 193K and counting.....Mercedes t3 Turbocharger in the works 10 pounds per RWHP FTW

Beat me to it!

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Thank you both!

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg