1982 240D floor pans - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

kessler1492 · #1 07-15-2008, 12:17 PM

Hello I have a 1982 240D Mercedes benz, interior is like brand new as well as the engine one owner who was an older lady in Illinios, all I need to do is fix the rust on it and it should go another 10 years if I take care of it, My question is this, I'm having a hard time finding floor pans for the car I did find floor pans for a 126 chassis, is that the same or is it compatiable with mine, I think mine might be a 123 chassis, not sure, would like to get replacement parts if I can any ideas?

rrgrassi · #2 07-15-2008, 02:21 PM

It is a w123 chassis. Contact Roy or Phil at fastlane (Buy Parts tab).

Oracle12345 · #3 07-15-2008, 03:55 PM

HI I have a w123 floor pan(driver side)for sedans that I bought from the dealership and never used since Im parting out the car. I bought it for a 300D but it should work in a 240 D

Where are you located??

Flounder · #4 07-15-2008, 07:28 PM

Fiberglass.

It's ideal for the complicated shapes you find in a car floor. I've done the floors in about 6 old cars with it, and never had one so much as develop a crack again. Apply 2-3 layers with cloth and you're done.

kessler1492 · #5 07-22-2008, 01:08 PM

Hey that fiberglass idea sounds like the best, that way I should never have to replace it again, how would I go about doing that? that idea is totally new to me what do you mean a couple of layers and then cloth, are you refuring to the carpet that I take out and then put back in when I'm done?

Flounder · #6 07-22-2008, 01:47 PM

What you need to do is strip away the carpeting and factory sound deadener all around where you need to patch holes, then remove all the flaky loose rust with a disc grinder (or wire wheel on a drill). Try to get down to shiny bare metal if possible.

Fiberglass stinks really bad so make sure you have adequate ventilation while working with the resin.

Buy 1 gal. fiberglass resin, which will come with 1 or 2 tubes of liquid hardener, and some woven fiberglass cloth. Also get some disposable rubber gloves and the cheapest 2" wide paint brushes you can buy. Cut the fiberglass cloth into pieces a little bigger than the area you're going to patch. Mix up the resin and hardener 1 small batch (say 6 oz.) at a time in a disposable plastic drinking cup, and slather it all over the existing metal where you're going to lay the cloth to patch the hole. Then lay the dry cloth in position and soak the cloth really good with resin/hardener mixture. You want the cloth totally impregnated with the liquid.

If the hole is really big you'll need something to span over the hole to form a mold for the fiberglass. You can rivet in some sheet aluminum for this purpose, or even use something like chicken wire. Once it's cured the fiberglass is the structural element,........the "preform" is only there to span the hole while the fiberglass sets up.

After the 1st. layer cures for 10-12 hours lay on a 2nd layer. With this one you can even stack 2 layers of cloth in one shot. Just soak them good and wet with resin/hardener.

After it's all cured up for say 24 hours spray all around underneath the repaired area with either rubberized undercoating or brush on some POR-15. On the topside I generally hit it with spray paint, as it takes too long for the undercoating to cure and I want to get my interior back together quickly.

To all the fiberglass naysayers on this board, I say try punching your fist through a boat hull sometime, and tell me if your hand hurts!

Good luck.

bgkast · #7 07-22-2008, 03:08 PM

The floor is structural on these UNIBODY cars, you don't want to fiberglass it.

I just finished replacing the rear floors and some other rust in my W123. I had somebody cut the floors out of a wrecked but rust-free donor, cut out the rust all the way to good metal, cut the patches to the exact shape of my holes and had them butt-welded in place (no lap = no place for rust to grow). I then prepped and coated the area in POR-15 and undercoated. This repair should last another 30 years (or more).

Oracle12345 · #8 07-22-2008, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgkast

The floor is structural on these UNIBODY cars, you don't want to fiberglass it.

I just finished replacing the rear floors and some other rust in my W123. I had somebody cut the floors out of a wrecked but rust-free donor, cut out the rust all the way to good metal, cut the patches to the exact shape of my holes and had them butt-welded in place (no lap = no place for rust to grow). I then prepped and coated the area in POR-15 and undercoated. This repair should last another 30 years (or more).

X2

Using fiberglass is a quick fix. If you want a permanet fix make some patch pieces, seal them up with por 15, remove all the rust, mig weld or rivet the patches in and you will not BE BACK THERE AGIAN.