My power steering pump leaks, so it coats the entire engine compartment and first half of the underside of the car (and all components) with a nice coating of power steering fluid. I've had no new rust form at all, and the rust that was there has stopped! I'm not planning on fixing the leak. It leaks about 1/4 a quart per 1000 miles of driving, if that. So like $1 per thousand miles for built in rust proofing. I like it.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

This winter my car won't have the luxury of a heated garage (which just makes it rust worse) and a block heater. My car has built-in undercoating in the form of a multitude of oil leaks which coat the underside of the car. What's the best way to spray bar and chain oil on the undercarriage, and how about into the rockers too? I have a POR-15 kit too to take care of little spots that are starting as well.

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1980 240d
1999 SL500

The worst thing you can do is put your salty icey car in a heated garage, it just makes the salt work faster. Your better off keeping it frozen outside.

Personaly I stick my car under a car cover in a heated garage for the next 6 months. In April or May when its nice and warm she will come out again. It's cheaper to buy throw away cars, than junk them, than for me to spend time washing the salt and crap off my good car.(plus fixing rust) I have $300 into a 1997 Golf for this winter, and I won't have to wash it once. Let it rust I don't give a damn. I'll wash it in April and get $500 for it.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I'll have to take a picture of the gun I have. It's designed to spray rocker panel chip gaurd. It has a decent length nozzle to spray into holes in the body to get into the rockers. The trick is to spray just enough on the undercarriage to get it moist, not dripping wet. Its great to spray under the hood and you can also pull door panels off and spray inside the doors. Usually I do this on keep cars, and only really need to do it one time in the doors as it will stay wet basically forever. I've also added tranny fluid to thin out the bar and chain oil. You can also leave the container near the woodstove to reduce the viscosity a little before spraying. Its a little messy but by doing this you can preserve a car in New England.

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Currently driving a very clean 1985 300SD from the West Coast.

Probably looks something like this. I definitely want to spray bar and chain oil in the doors, rockers and undercarriage. Doesn't the oil have anti-rust properties as well? In the winter I drove my 300cd whenever I got salt on the car I would wash it and spray water into the wheel wells, then garage the car. Of course, this didn't get at the salt that was under the body and in crevices. A few tiny rust spots are starting on the top of one wheel arch, the undercoating probably got chipped somehow.

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1980 240d
1999 SL500

Thats it! Its a fancy one as mine was molded out of one piece of aluminum. You will most likely need to buy chip gaurd for the container.
The other thing about oil is it stops rust that you have. Bar and chain has pariffins in it.

Here you go, found it! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-U-POL-AUTO-CAR-PAINT-CHIP-PROTECTOR-UNDERCOATING_W0QQitemZ200264430248QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item200264430248&_trkparms=39%3A1%7C65%3A7%7C2 40%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

U-POL chip gaurd is OK, but the german stuff is better Spies Hecker if you can find it.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/p-15981-upol-applicator-gun-for-gravitex-0726.aspx

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Currently driving a very clean 1985 300SD from the West Coast.

Be careful to NOT clog drain holes in the rockers / doors etc.

Rustproofers here in the midwest would spray a gummy tar-like substance into doors and rockers, clog the drain holes, and cause the vehicles to rust faster. It voided most body warranties.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Good point.
Might be another good reason to thin out the bar and chain oil.

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Currently driving a very clean 1985 300SD from the West Coast.

So I took a look at the driver's side rocker panels today (I assume those are the thin sheets that are screwed on that runs along the top of the wheel well to the front door area?)
Anyway, WOW! The front one had so many leaves and sticks and dust in it that I had a pile about 8 inches wide laying on the ground after I cleaned it out.
The rear one, while much smaller, made about a six inch wide pile of dirt..looked like I dumped an ashtray on the ground.
I'm glad I discovered this...all those leaves + salt and water would be a recipe for disaster. Luckily, as far as I can tell, there isn't any rust forming in those areas presently. Too bad it gets dark so early now- I still need to get to the other side.

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Dan
2005 E320 CDI - 246k
1987 300SDL TD05-16g, Herlevi pump, Elbe manifold, 2.47 LSD - 213k
Past: 1987 300D - 264k

Jeff,

Sorry, I just saw this thread again. the rust pretty much ate up the rear rocker and the jack point in the back. So thats why I decided to go to the junkyard and cut a 300E in half. I've jacked up from the newly welded in rocker w/ jack support and no problem. not even on the rubber pads.

Thanks. I remember your project now Bob.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff